Follow up on solving arm pump on my fat bike w Bluto.
1) Lowering tire pressure to 5 and 4.5 PSI (from 7 and 6) probably had the biggest impact on reducing the arm pump but I didn't feel comfortable going any lower. I'm not riding groomed snow trails, just my local single track trails when they get 1 to 4 inches on top so still plenty bumpy and I've felt the rear tire hit the rim at the new settings and I'm not willing to risk the tires/rims any more than that. 2) Dialing in my cockpit (bar roll, lever tilt, moving the levers inboard etc) also helped a little but the tektro brakes and their long levers still mean the bite point is further from the bar than is my preference. This is IMO the biggest remaining contributor to the arm pump but I can't do anything else about it short of replacing the brakes. 3) A lower leg service went a long way to reducing the stiction as it always does but particularly so in this case as there didn't appear to be any oil bath in the lowers (either having wept out over the 2 years the OG owner had it, or never having any to begin with) 4) Still hunting for a little more suppleness, I changed out the MoCo damper's oil from the recommened rock shox 5 weight (really Torco RFF 7wt) to lighter rock shock 2.5 wt (Torco RFF 5wt) which again helped some. It does have its side effects though. With the 5wt oil, I was running the LSR 5 clicks from fully closed and LSC fully open. After switching to the lighter oil, LSR is 2 from fully closed with LSC still full open but LSC clicks seem more usable now. Basically it it has narrowed the LSR tuning window while pushing the LSC into a usable range (i.e. i would never have used any C damping before but think feel like i could close off the C damping a click or 2 and it would still be usable.) I may experiment with blending the 2 weights for something that give me wider tuning windows for both sides (its so easy to change fluid with the MoCo damper it would be a shame not to fiddle with it).
Cheers all for the helpful suggestions. Fatty rides much nicer now.
Note that all this added suppleness also means i landed on 118PSI in the air spring which is much closer to RS's recommened ~120PSI (i had started at 109PSI in my OG post)
Does anyone know if you can use water bottle cage bolts or stem bolts on disk brake calipers? Thanks
They are most likely different sizes. I don't remember the exact size off the top of my head but you should be able to go the local hardware store and pick up the correct size bolts or stop by a shop they should be relatively inexpensive.
Does anyone know if you can use water bottle cage bolts or stem bolts on disk brake calipers? Thanks
They are most likely different sizes. I don't remember the exact size off the top of my head but you should be able to go the local hardware store and pick up the correct size bolts or stop by a shop they should be relatively inexpensive.
Does anyone know if you can use water bottle cage bolts or stem bolts on disk brake calipers? Thanks
Different diameters: Caliper screws are M6 and bottle cage screws are usually M5. Stem screws are usually M5 or M6, occasionally M8. Lengths also vary, so be sure your caliper screws are long enough, even once you've found the right diameter and thread pitch.
Even if they were the same size, bottle cage screws are often not the same material grade as a stem or caliper screw; I've seen aluminum and even nylon bottle cage screws, which I wouldn't trust to keep my handlebar or brakes attached to my bike.
Does anyone know if you can use water bottle cage bolts or stem bolts on disk brake calipers? Thanks
This is one of those things you'll never. Ever. Want to do!! Caliper bolts are extremely integral to your safety. They have to be very strong. Always use dedicated brake bolts or if you do buy them at your local hardware store make sure you get at least Metric 10.9 (strong) or even better metric 12.9 (strongest). Or better yet, as others have said, go to your local bike shop and ask them for some. They'll be free or very cheap.
Anyone tried using e13 race compound tyres in the cold? Put a new lg1r tyre on the front today, took them for a spin around the block and couldn’t get the front tyre to stick to the ground at all, felt like it was kashima coated. For reference, taking another bike with dual compound DHF’s for a ride directly after was night and day different (it’s around -14c outside right now).
Have I bought a tyre that’s sat too long in the warehouse and gone solid, or is that race compound overly temperature sensitive?
It is most likely temp sensitive. My current Michelin in Magx compound starts to loose grip when the temps get low on anything smooth like rocks or roots.
My friend is looking for a XD driver for a Turnagain FH1 hub. (Borealis) Everything is back ordered. Does anyone know if this is just a rebranded Novatec, etc?
Slow rebounding compounds get very hard in cold conditions. Maxxis Slow Reezay (SRY40) or Intense soft compound tires were as hard as the plastic on my bash guard in cold weather!
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