When in doubt, get thicker rotors and, if necessary, sand down the pads. There may be paint on the backing plate and a little roughness on the friction material of a fresh pad that will easily add up to 0.1 mm per pad.
When in doubt, get thicker rotors and, if necessary, sand down the pads. There may be paint on the backing plate and a little roughness on the friction material of a fresh pad that will easily add up to 0.1 mm per pad.
taking this advice, I'd wind up with hope vented rotors and no pad left lol. Thanks formula for being built for maximum modulation, and barely any pad clearance that almost always rubs!
Didn't realize they ran such tight clearance. Presumably due to an extreme hydraulic ratio?
Word of caution: I recently had a mishap with my Magura brakes, running Magura pads and rotors. The friction material was super thin and the calipers were adjusted a little off-centre to compensate for asymmetric piston movement. A piston on the side that were extended farther popped out and jammed askew, locking the brake and not retracting. Thankfully, it was on the rear wheel; otherwise, I'd have been ejected.
So there you go, the danger of too-thin pads and/or rotors, combined with imperfect maintenance.
Didn't realize they ran such tight clearance. Presumably due to an extreme hydraulic ratio?
Word of caution: I recently had a mishap with my Magura brakes, running Magura pads and rotors. The friction material was super thin and the calipers were adjusted a little off-centre to compensate for asymmetric piston movement. A piston on the side that were extended farther popped out and jammed askew, locking the brake and not retracting. Thankfully, it was on the rear wheel; otherwise, I'd have been ejected.
So there you go, the danger of too-thin pads and/or rotors, combined with imperfect maintenance.
Yeah, they are insanely powerful, at least, my RO's from 2013. Oval piston, and a nuts ratio. and thanks for the heads up on keeping an eye on the rotor/pad thicknesses! that must've been a scary situation.
Not too scary, as it was the rear wheel. Could've been a lot worse.
The real problem was that the caliper had been set up off-centre due to unequal piston movement. It was at least a couple millimeters off-centre, which is huge, relative to concerning ourselves over 0.1 mm (per side) of rotor thickness.
I'm about to buy a cane creek db air il for my enduro,
saw few snapped off shafts
is this common?
Which enduro is it? I owned two of the x-wing versions with a yoke (the model previous to the current design, I think a MY17 and MY1 . Those bikes blew through shocks like no tomorrow (three ohlins 22s, and a monarch). Finally settled on an X2 and that seemed to help a lot, being that its burlier than the others. It's a well known fact that the yoke style frames put a lot of side loading stress on shocks and destroy them quite quickly, vs a more conventional eyelet-and-bushing or even a Clevis style yoke. Also, the cane creek's shocks don't have as much bushing overlap as the other brands (hence why the ohlins got torn up so quick).
Speaking of old Formula, I can't wait to try out the T1 Racing LTD brakes I've been squandering with the SwissStop ExoTherm pads and Catalyst rotors. Now if I could only find a frame...
I'm about to buy a cane creek db air il for my enduro,
saw few snapped off shafts
is this common?
Which enduro is it? I owned two of the x-wing versions with a yoke (the model previous to the current design, I think a MY17 and MY1 . Those bikes blew through shocks like no tomorrow (three ohlins 22s, and a monarch). Finally settled on an X2 and that seemed to help a lot, being that its burlier than the others. It's a well known fact that the yoke style frames put a lot of side loading stress on shocks and destroy them quite quickly, vs a more conventional eyelet-and-bushing or even a Clevis style yoke. Also, the cane creek's shocks don't have as much bushing overlap as the other brands (hence why the ohlins got torn up so quick).
Hi, I'm looking at a Sunn Kern AM for my next ride. I like the bike and the specs but I have one issue : Both suspensions are with remote lockout. I hate these. For the shock I think you can't remove it, but what about the fork (RS Revelation) ? On Fox you can the regular lever and remove the remote, is it possible on RS ?
Hi, I'm looking at a Sunn Kern AM for my next ride. I like the bike and the specs but I have one issue : Both suspensions are with remote lockout. I hate these. For the shock I think you can't remove it, but what about the fork (RS Revelation) ? On Fox you can the regular lever and remove the remote, is it possible on RS ?
I have heard that it is possible but I believe that its only possible to leave the dampener in either open or closed, I've never owned rock shox fork because I want my bike to work (I know fox fan boy here) so i wont really know from experience but if push comes to shove you can always just buy another charger 2.1 dampener and shove it in there
I find the smaller the fastener the more important the quality of the tool. Take lock on grips as an example I have used cheaper quality allen wrenches and have stripped them out or rounded them enough that they no longer work with the cheap ones. Use a good quality allen wrench and it can still get them out.
I recently ordered that exact set and I have been very happy with them.
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. Those bikes blew through shocks like no tomorrow (three ohlins 22s, and a monarch). Finally settled on an X2 and that seemed to help a lot, being that its burlier than the others. It's a well known fact that the yoke style frames put a lot of side loading stress on shocks and destroy them quite quickly, vs a more conventional eyelet-and-bushing or even a Clevis style yoke. Also, the cane creek's shocks don't have as much bushing overlap as the other brands (hence why the ohlins got torn up so quick). 
