Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 14, 2021 at 15:07 Quote
I crashed late last season and tore up one of my zee brake levers pretty good. Ripped the bleed screw right out. I found a set of m810 saints on buysell for cheap, so I took the chance and got them. After install, I found a small leak from the left lever. I've checked the hose fittings and ensured that's not where it's leaking from. I figure I'd better cut my losses and just buy another set. (Unless anyone has successfully fixed a leaking m810 with a rebuild?)

As you all probably know, finding bike parts right now is next to impossible, but I've sourced a set of new XT levers and a set of new magura mt5 that I found along the way. They're priced similarly. I've had slx before, so I feel confident the XTs will be good, but I'm willing to try out the maguras if they come with a good recommendation. Calipers will be staying zee either way. Has anyone ridden both to be able to give a good comparison?

Posted: Apr 14, 2021 at 15:14 Quote
Mt5 has a lot of modulation and power. Lever is a weak point tho, you can break them easily

but if you buy it i recommend changing pads to mt7 pads, will perform much closer to mt7

Posted: Apr 14, 2021 at 21:56 Quote
AlanDuren wrote:
riish wrote:
I suspect my brake pads picked up some contamination over the winter. Tried sanding back the pads/rotors and then also torching them, nothing really has helped.

However, I realised a few rides back that getting the pads wet immediately gets them working. I’ll be switching them for new ones once the snow is all gone, but I’m pretty curious as to why it works to just wet them. The effect lasts for about 40 minutes or so, which is well past the time it takes for pads/rotors to dry off under normal braking.

maybe something to do with glazing bake pads

You mean that the pads are glazed over and require sanding back again?

Posted: Apr 14, 2021 at 22:52 Quote
riish,

Maybe the pads need a more thorough sanding. Soak them in acetone, blot them dry, repeat if desired, then give them a thorough sanding.

Posted: Apr 14, 2021 at 23:11 Quote
I’ll give that a go, thanks for the tip.

What is it about water on glazed pads that gets them to start working?

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 0:54 Quote
nojzilla wrote:
Why don't you want to use a shim?
Honest interest

I heard that it can damage carbon frames

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 0:56 Quote
wellbastardfast wrote:
LiamMag wrote:
Is there a way to run a 30.9mm or a 31.6mm dropper post on a frame with a 34.9mm seat post diameter without using a shim (My bike has a carbon front triangle so I don't want to risk damaging my frame)

A ruin a shim in my dreadnought and it's fine don't see how shimming it would damage anything mate

oh ok, I've heard that it can potentially damage carbon frames

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 0:57 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
LiamMag wrote:
Is there a way to run a 30.9mm or a 31.6mm dropper post on a frame with a 34.9mm seat post diameter without using a shim (My bike has a carbon front triangle so I don't want to risk damaging my frame)

just use a shim. you're much more likely to damage your seat tube using the aluminum can method than a shim, i ran a shim in a 34.9 frame with a 31.6 post for a year with no issues.

ok cool, I've heard that it can damage carbon frames so I just wanted to check

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 1:17 Quote
LiamMag wrote:
nojzilla wrote:
Why don't you want to use a shim?
Honest interest

I heard that it can damage carbon frames

There are plastic shims that should be safer for carbon.

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 8:14 Quote
And Liam you only need to respond to one answer not every single one thanks

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 10:53 Quote
Does anyone know if you can run an internal dropper on a 2020 scott scale?

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 12:14 Quote
Ardenjacoby wrote:
Does anyone know if you can run an internal dropper on a 2020 scott scale?

you can, but its a pain in the ass and you have to pull the BB, which if it has sram dub pressfit will most likely explode when you knock it out, but it is possible

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 13:45 Quote
Hey guys, just wondering if the 2005-2008 Deemax wheelsets use proprietary spokes or if you can just use any regular old straight pull spoke. If not, has anyone tried MacGyver-ing something that would work as a spoke for these wheels?

Thanks for your help!

Posted: Apr 15, 2021 at 14:51 Quote
I’ve read other people have had issues with spongy TRP G Spec but Christ what a ball ache.

Before I bin them, has anyone any gems of wisdom to get them to bite properly? I’ve replaced pads, rotors, hoses the works. Left them tied to the bar as the TRP mechs recommend the works and they ALWAYS wind up spongy or just plain short on power and bite.

I’ve pretty short fingers and I’ve noticed that the shorter the reach, the less bite. I’ve Hope E4’s on my other rig and zero issues either bleeding or setting the reach/bite point.

Help and wisdom appreciated.


 
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