Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 11:32 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
cvana wrote:
I have a dpx2 2019 on my small Giant Trance
I'm having a lot of trouble setting up my sag.
The code is DNC2 and I obtained this info:

2019 Performance Series FLOAT
Part number: 973-82-040
Short ID: DNC2
Description: 2019, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion, Evol LV, Giant, Trance Advanced Pro 29 1, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi L F M, TC 704 Gloss/TA 2572 Gloss

The suggested sag settings an the FOX site indicate 4 sizes of the shock - 45, 51, 55, 65

What is the travel for MY shock and can it be determined by the info above? My own measurement suggests 50 mm

Thank you.

42.5mm stroke.

You want to start by setting it so that the sag o-ring sits about 11mm from the shock seal.

OK. Thank you for helping me out with this.
If I weigh 180 lbs and have the psi set at 180, shouldn't I be close? I'm hitting 25mm +

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 11:33 Quote
kwapik wrote:
cvana wrote:
I have a dpx2 2019 on my small Giant Trance
I'm having a lot of trouble setting up my sag.
The code is DNC2 and I obtained this info:

2019 Performance Series FLOAT
Part number: 973-82-040
Short ID: DNC2
Description: 2019, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion, Evol LV, Giant, Trance Advanced Pro 29 1, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi L F M, TC 704 Gloss/TA 2572 Gloss

The suggested sag settings an the FOX site indicate 4 sizes of the shock - 45, 51, 55, 65

What is the travel for MY shock and can it be determined by the info above? My own measurement suggests 50 mm

Thank you.

According to your information - it's a 165x42.5mm


Thanks - I guess it's smaller than my owner's guide says. Thanks for helping to clarify this!

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 11:46 Quote
Anyone know of an easy way to remove a Halo djd bd drive ring without the correct tool? Just to confirm, it's not the supadrive, it's the bush drive version

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 12:53 Quote
slopestyleworldwide wrote:
Anyone know of an easy way to remove a Halo djd bd drive ring without the correct tool? Just to confirm, it's not the supadrive, it's the bush drive version

Even with the correct tool, removing the drivering often requires the "big persuader" ie. a 4ft long bit of scaffold pole. I honestly don't rate your chances of doing it without the correct tool.

The guys at Halo are pretty cool though. If your LBS doesnt have the tool, give Halo a call and ask if they will swap out the ring for you if you post them the hub.

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 12:56 Quote
cvana wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
cvana wrote:
I have a dpx2 2019 on my small Giant Trance
I'm having a lot of trouble setting up my sag.
The code is DNC2 and I obtained this info:

2019 Performance Series FLOAT
Part number: 973-82-040
Short ID: DNC2
Description: 2019, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion, Evol LV, Giant, Trance Advanced Pro 29 1, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi L F M, TC 704 Gloss/TA 2572 Gloss

The suggested sag settings an the FOX site indicate 4 sizes of the shock - 45, 51, 55, 65

What is the travel for MY shock and can it be determined by the info above? My own measurement suggests 50 mm

Thank you.

42.5mm stroke.

You want to start by setting it so that the sag o-ring sits about 11mm from the shock seal.

OK. Thank you for helping me out with this.
If I weigh 180 lbs and have the psi set at 180, shouldn't I be close? I'm hitting 25mm +

No not really. I know there's a bit of an old wives tale going around that you put your bodyweight in psi into an air spring and then its the right pressure for you, but that isn't true. It might possibly be true for one or two shocks out there, but if so that is pure coincidence. If you are struggling, any good bike shop that deals in good quality suspension bikes should be able to help you out.

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 13:04 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
slopestyleworldwide wrote:
Anyone know of an easy way to remove a Halo djd bd drive ring without the correct tool? Just to confirm, it's not the supadrive, it's the bush drive version

Even with the correct tool, removing the drivering often requires the "big persuader" ie. a 4ft long bit of scaffold pole. I honestly don't rate your chances of doing it without the correct tool.

The guys at Halo are pretty cool though. If your LBS doesnt have the tool, give Halo a call and ask if they will swap out the ring for you if you post them the hub.

I feel I should add a little side note here. The entire industry is struggling at the moment. Especially in the UK where the Covid/Brexit combo has really f*cked most of us over. While the guys over at Halo are really cool guys and super willing to be helpful, I haven't spoken with them for a while, so I don't know how busy they are just now. If it's anything like the rest of the industry they are all gonna be running around screaming with their hair on fire, or lying huddled in a corner crying because the phone hasn't stopped ringing for 3 weeks straight now and all stock eta's have just been moved back to 2027. So if they haven't got time to help you out just now, don't be too angry at them.

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 14:13 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
cvana wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:


42.5mm stroke.

You want to start by setting it so that the sag o-ring sits about 11mm from the shock seal.

OK. Thank you for helping me out with this.
If I weigh 180 lbs and have the psi set at 180, shouldn't I be close? I'm hitting 25mm +

No not really. I know there's a bit of an old wives tale going around that you put your bodyweight in psi into an air spring and then its the right pressure for you, but that isn't true. It might possibly be true for one or two shocks out there, but if so that is pure coincidence. If you are struggling, any good bike shop that deals in good quality suspension bikes should be able to help you out.

As noted above, you should be getting around 11-15mm of sag (25-30%), at least as a starting point. You have lots of room to work with, that shock has a max pressure of 350 psi

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 15:04 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
slopestyleworldwide wrote:
Anyone know of an easy way to remove a Halo djd bd drive ring without the correct tool? Just to confirm, it's not the supadrive, it's the bush drive version

Even with the correct tool, removing the drivering often requires the "big persuader" ie. a 4ft long bit of scaffold pole. I honestly don't rate your chances of doing it without the correct tool.

The guys at Halo are pretty cool though. If your LBS doesnt have the tool, give Halo a call and ask if they will swap out the ring for you if you post them the hub.

I feel I should add a little side note here. The entire industry is struggling at the moment. Especially in the UK where the Covid/Brexit combo has really f*cked most of us over. While the guys over at Halo are really cool guys and super willing to be helpful, I haven't spoken with them for a while, so I don't know how busy they are just now. If it's anything like the rest of the industry they are all gonna be running around screaming with their hair on fire, or lying huddled in a corner crying because the phone hasn't stopped ringing for 3 weeks straight now and all stock eta's have just been moved back to 2027. So if they haven't got time to help you out just now, don't be too angry at them.

Haha, yeah I know how crazy it is. My local is a Halo supplier so they should have the tools to service so will just drop it into them I reckon. Sounds so easy on the halo website, insert tool into vice, place wheel on top of tool and turn wheel lol

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 15:49 Quote
Cheers for all the replies to my previous post, much appreciated.

As an update: there had apparently been a miscommunication and they have now replaced the hose (at a cost of £70 though which seems insane). The problem with the calliper is still there though, something to do with one of the pistons letting air in and it's been described as "rideable but spongy" - also questioning this as I had a near-perfect bleed when I sold it. Fortunately, I have another guide brake gathering dust so going to post that over and hopefully be done with it.

Posted: Apr 22, 2021 at 20:20 Quote
willbikeleeds wrote:
Cheers for all the replies to my previous post, much appreciated.

As an update: there had apparently been a miscommunication and they have now replaced the hose (at a cost of £70 though which seems insane). The problem with the calliper is still there though, something to do with one of the pistons letting air in and it's been described as "rideable but spongy" - also questioning this as I had a near-perfect bleed when I sold it. Fortunately, I have another guide brake gathering dust so going to post that over and hopefully be done with it.
Don't know why you would send him a new brake. Give him the 30 and be done with it, if he wants new brakes he can buy them himself. Your being swindled.

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 0:26 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
So asking for my brother, who bought a used Cinelli nemo tig a few months ago and has now realized that because of shitty qc, the rear brake mount is basically incorrectly welded and impossible to adjust correctly, causing extreme brake rub. Is there anything we can do to salvage the situation? I thought about a 3D printed flat mount adapter that has some offset, but i don't have access to CAD (or a 3D printer for that matter lmao). Any other ideas? the brake is too far inward, so using a spacer on the rotor isn't an option either

Have you tried getting the flat mount faced properly? This can sometimes solve a few of your issues.

If not check with the guys at Cinelli Italy as they are good guys

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 15:07 Quote
riish wrote:
AlanDuren wrote:
riish wrote:
I suspect my brake pads picked up some contamination over the winter. Tried sanding back the pads/rotors and then also torching them, nothing really has helped.

However, I realised a few rides back that getting the pads wet immediately gets them working. I’ll be switching them for new ones once the snow is all gone, but I’m pretty curious as to why it works to just wet them. The effect lasts for about 40 minutes or so, which is well past the time it takes for pads/rotors to dry off under normal braking.

maybe something to do with glazing bake pads

You mean that the pads are glazed over and require sanding back again?
I read this and was merely curious. You've probably done this, but did you RE-BED the pads once you sanded them?

~JSV

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 15:14 Quote
If I install Cush Core, can I keep using my Stan's custom valves? Probably yes, but had to ask.

AND, do I use the same PSI I was running before, or have people installing Cush Core found they change their PSI after installing this?

~JSV

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 15:23 Quote
ScaryGuiTarS wrote:
If I install Cush Core, can I keep using my Stan's custom valves? Probably yes, but had to ask.

AND, do I use the same PSI I was running before, or have people installing Cush Core found they change their PSI after installing this?

~JSV

Cushcore works best with the propriety valves due to how tight the tolerances are. One thing that's commonly reported with cushcore is that you can use lower pressure, but you don't have to do that (though terrain might call for higher or lower depending)

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 15:52 Quote
ScaryGuiTarS wrote:
If I install Cush Core, can I keep using my Stan's custom valves? Probably yes, but had to ask.

AND, do I use the same PSI I was running before, or have people installing Cush Core found they change their PSI after installing this?

~JSV

It might work, but there's a reason they include special valves with them. Basically (as the other person said), the cushcore itself sits pretty tightly against the rim, and it'll be difficult to get sealant into the tire via a traditional valve stem (like Stan's), while cushcore has the openings perpendicular to the rim, allowing the sealant to enter more easily (as easily as regular valves I found).


 
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