Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 16:18 Quote
You won't be able to deflate your tyre if you use standard valves. Do not underestimate how big a pain in the arse this would be.

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 16:21 Quote
How much grip difference should i expect changing from magic mary addix soft to michelin dh 34 bikepark?
i know that it has somewhat closer to maxxterra level rubber which it was softer than my marys, but how is the thread pattern for front?

terrain is rocky and loose over hard

dry in summer wet and loamy in winter

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 18:01 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
How much grip difference should i expect changing from magic mary addix soft to michelin dh 34 bikepark?
i know that it has somewhat closer to maxxterra level rubber which it was softer than my marys, but how is the thread pattern for front?

terrain is rocky and loose over hard

dry in summer wet and loamy in winter

Hey look at some WTB convicts I got some on my clash I ride rocks covered in moon dust and they are awesome hard enough that the tire doesn't get shredded to bits but soft enough that it grips like crazy

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 18:08 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
WTB Convict

Great tread pattern on the Convict and enough tread wrap to use it on wider rims.

Posted: Apr 23, 2021 at 18:44 Quote
It's not available in the store i'm buying sadly

Posted: Apr 24, 2021 at 3:50 Quote
ScaryGuiTarS wrote:
riish wrote:
AlanDuren wrote:


maybe something to do with glazing bake pads

You mean that the pads are glazed over and require sanding back again?
I read this and was merely curious. You've probably done this, but did you RE-BED the pads once you sanded them?

~JSV

I did. Out of curiosity, I switched the front pads for new, sanded back the rear pads again, and bedded both in with a series of hard stops on the road in +8 degrees. The front bedded in insanely quick, the back took ages until it felt okay.

I think the reason it didn’t work the first time was that I was bedding them in at -15. perhaps the stops I made were a bit too prolonged for the temp/weather conditions and caused glazing instead of bedding in.

Posted: Apr 24, 2021 at 4:09 Quote
https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/slackerizer-angle-headset.htm

Ive got a 2013 Specialized Status 1.5"headtube and want to replace my headset....What size will fit my headtube? I currently have a (zs)semi integrated hope headset on my status frame and the headtube length is 120mm, I don't have the tools to remove my headset at the moment so I can't measure the inner diameter of the headtube. Does anyone know what the diameter is? Thanks

Posted: Apr 24, 2021 at 8:09 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
How much grip difference should i expect changing from magic mary addix soft to michelin dh 34 bikepark?
i know that it has somewhat closer to maxxterra level rubber which it was softer than my marys, but how is the thread pattern for front?

terrain is rocky and loose over hard

dry in summer wet and loamy in winter

It's been quite a time since I used a mm up front, found it rides like shite in rocky, loose over hard, dry terrain. Been on michelin for 3 years and never looked back. I run a dh34 bp at the rear but used it up front when new, sturdy, grippy, amazing in of camber, roots, loose rocks, hard pack and lasts for ever and most importand uniformed wear, no side knobs missing or any of that sort, bad points it's heavy af and if you are using it up front it's not quite supple compared to a wild enduro but it gives a direct feel. Not good enough on wet rocks and roots though, prefer the wild enduro gum 3x or whatever it's called for wet rides.

Posted: Apr 24, 2021 at 8:23 Quote
And quite small compared with the wild enduro, both being designated 2.4

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 8:56 Quote
Mounted a new 38 to my bike on friday, then took it for a ride and had some issues with the front brake squealing like a sram rotor. Cleaned the rotor and the caliper, put in new pads as the old ones were slightly worn, but that didn't solve it.

Before riding today I took out the pads and noticed that one pad has some weird scuffs:


Using Saints with XT rotors and metallic pads in the front, rotors are fresh and weren't contaminated. Squeaking and slight vibrations only happen somewhere in the middle of the bite point, not under light braking and not under full braking either.

Rotor is ever so slightly bent but didn't have that problem with the old fork.

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 9:18 Quote
looks like contamination

check the caliper pistons it's common for shimano to have micro cracks on the ceramic pistons

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 9:32 Quote
"Just changed the forks and now the brake squeaks. Issue remains even with new pads."

My guess is somthing isn't lined up right. Most obvious culprit would be the brake caliper as it has recently been fitted.

Best way to check caliper alignment, is to pull the brake lever, and check that when the pads hit the rotor they dont bend or twist it. Almost all calipers will push one sides pistons out slightly more than the other, so just sticking the rotor bang in the middle of the slot and assuming all will be well doesn't always work.

Thats the first thing I'd check. Followed by all the bolts on the front end of the bike.

If that doesn't solve it, check the brake mounts on the fork (and any caliper adapter fitted) is all square and aligned.

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 10:08 Quote
Make sure to burn any contaminants from the rotor by spraying it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and setting it on fire.

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 12:20 Quote
I need to rebuild my Rockshox Reba fork on my 2018 specialized epic, and I'm thinking about throwing in a damper upgrade too. It looks like I can go with either the Charger RLC damper or the Race Day damper. My question is about the Charger RLC: Does it have rebound adjustment? My Reba fork does, but I can't tell by the product description if the RLC will retain that.

Link to product

Description says:

Increase the performance of Rockshox forks with a Charger upgrade kit. Features include a no compromise lockout, where the "Pedal" and "Lock" circuits sit behind the damping, meaning no sacrifice in downhill bump control while maintaining pedaling stability on climbs. The extruded bladder design is durable, resists damping change during extended downhills and has virtually zero pressure offset for small bump sensitivity. Available damper settings: Open with an adjustable low speed compression, Pedal and Lock.
Extruded bladder design is durable, resists damping change during extended downhill runs and has virtually zero pressure offset for small bump sensitivity
Charger version reduces vibration and is almost 100 grams lighter than the previous damper

Posted: Apr 25, 2021 at 12:22 Quote
R stands for Rebound

L for lockout

C for compression


 
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