Doing a rebuild on an old 2011 Reba motion control damper, dual air. Everything when super smoothly until I got it back together, gave it the mandatory few squishes with no air and I blew the damper side dust wiper right off.
I picked up the black ones as I was getting conflicting information when googling. The old ones were grey, different part number, so picked up those, same issue on the air spring side.
Using 5ml of fluid in both sides, tired fox 20wt as well some 15wt (rs rec). Using a seal driver to seat them. This is the 3rd/4th set of seals I've done on this fork, never had an issue before.
Halppp
Were the lowers clean and bone dry where the seal sits in before you fitted them? If there is any oily residue on the seat the seals are likely to pop out when pressure builds up in the lowers when compressed. If they still pop out even when installed completely dry, put a little film of threadlock on the outside of the seal before fitting. Just make sure you don't get any on the sealing surfaces.
They were not, I've always put a bit of fluid on the outer portion of the seal to help them slide home.
I would assume you put the foam rings in after the dust wipers then?
I'll give everything a good cleaning and try with clean/dry seals.
used both, wasnt a huge difference. bontrager was the team edition which has a higher tpi i believe so it was super supple but thats really it
Ok, perfect, thanks, I appreciate it. Due to rather unfortunate circumstances, I now have two gravel bikes to choose from, so I can pick/play with pieces from both (primarily tires) and sell the one I don't like as much.
Does anyone have tips on changing tyres on a bontrager rim with the TLR rim strip? I have not managed to successfully get both beads on (have to pay a mechanic to do it). The strip only has a very narrow channel in the middle which seems to be as wide as one bead. I get the first side on fine, then I can't get the bead out of the channel to get the other side in.
Considering removing the strip and just taping the rim as I would on another wheel, but apparently this rim strip has benefits so it would be great if I could figure out how to mount new tyres myself.
My rockshox lyrik RC2 become extremely stiff after sitting for a day or two... They are brand new, only ridden a dozen times. But what happens is after sitting still for 12-24 hours, the stanchions actually extend out and the forks travel goes from 160 all the way to 180mm, and becomes stiff as a board. If I push down hard, I hear a suction noise and all of a sudden the fork feels normal, but still rides high on the stanchion... What in the world is happening? I'm completely lost.
I have used the zip tie in the seal trick to release pressure, that allowed the fork to feel normal and sit at 160mm for about 3 rides, then it all happened again.
My rockshox lyrik RC2 become extremely stiff after sitting for a day or two... They are brand new, only ridden a dozen times. But what happens is after sitting still for 12-24 hours, the stanchions actually extend out and the forks travel goes from 160 all the way to 180mm, and becomes stiff as a board. If I push down hard, I hear a suction noise and all of a sudden the fork feels normal, but still rides high on the stanchion... What in the world is happening? I'm completely lost.
I have used the zip tie in the seal trick to release pressure, that allowed the fork to feel normal and sit at 160mm for about 3 rides, then it all happened again.
Sounds like the air in the negative spring is leaking past the seal head and into the lowers. It gets stiff as a board because that’s what air springs feels like without a negative spring. When you push down real hard you are moving the piston back down to the normal equalization point with the dimple on the stanchion, which re-pressurized the negative chamber and makes it feel right, but the extra pressure in the lowers is still making it ride real high because they are acting as an extra positive spring which the negative chamber can’t equalize with.
It’s probably one of the seals on the seal head and you need a new seal head. Or it could be a scored airshaft you need a new airshaft. Or it could that the stanchion is scratched where the static o-ring on the seal head seats, which would mean a new stanchion or CSU.
Does anyone have tips on changing tyres on a bontrager rim with the TLR rim strip? I have not managed to successfully get both beads on (have to pay a mechanic to do it). The strip only has a very narrow channel in the middle which seems to be as wide as one bead. I get the first side on fine, then I can't get the bead out of the channel to get the other side in.
Considering removing the strip and just taping the rim as I would on another wheel, but apparently this rim strip has benefits so it would be great if I could figure out how to mount new tyres myself.
I have read a few reviews that say their rim strip is garbage I would take it off and tape it up.
Does anyone have tips on changing tyres on a bontrager rim with the TLR rim strip? I have not managed to successfully get both beads on (have to pay a mechanic to do it). The strip only has a very narrow channel in the middle which seems to be as wide as one bead. I get the first side on fine, then I can't get the bead out of the channel to get the other side in.
Considering removing the strip and just taping the rim as I would on another wheel, but apparently this rim strip has benefits so it would be great if I could figure out how to mount new tyres myself.
just a rim strip at the end of the day, not sure it will give much in the way of benefits
as someone else said I'd probably just tape her up
In general no, in most situations besides a rim swap you will need a different length anyway. Its always good to replace them when replacing a rim either way
Does anyone have tips on changing tyres on a bontrager rim with the TLR rim strip? I have not managed to successfully get both beads on (have to pay a mechanic to do it). The strip only has a very narrow channel in the middle which seems to be as wide as one bead. I get the first side on fine, then I can't get the bead out of the channel to get the other side in.
Considering removing the strip and just taping the rim as I would on another wheel, but apparently this rim strip has benefits so it would be great if I could figure out how to mount new tyres myself.
They're more designed to be used for tubeless setups from my recollection. They do fit that purpose pretty well if I recall correctly.