Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 13:30 Quote
harry-steen27 wrote:
Here are the photos
photo

Take out the two small torx keys visible in this photo. Remove the aluminium cap they retain and all the plastic C spacers underneath. Re fit the aluminium cap and the torx screws. Sometimes if spacers come fitted from the factory they seem to use longer screws and the cap wont tighten up properly with the spacers removed. So you might need to source shorter screws.

However, even while typing the thing about the long screws I think it sounds absolutely insane. I've only seen it once so maybe that was just a weird one off or some sort of batch error

Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 13:49 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
p-m-z wrote:
I just realized that my RS Monarch R shock was low on air, so i pumped it up, but nothing happened, the shock pump showed that it was at 150 PSI, but when I compress the suspension, It just bottoms out with out any resistance. Does this mean that it is blown out? Thanks!

Sounds like air is bypassing the main piston somehow and the positive and negative air chambers are connected.
If it has an outer air sleeve round the inner air can then often the big o-rings between these get mashed out of place when fitting the sleeve.

If you only have a single skin air can then check the main air piston seal quad ring for damage.

Ok, I just checked the air can, and there were 2 o-rings out of place. Thanks!

Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 14:12 Quote
p-m-z wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
p-m-z wrote:
I just realized that my RS Monarch R shock was low on air, so i pumped it up, but nothing happened, the shock pump showed that it was at 150 PSI, but when I compress the suspension, It just bottoms out with out any resistance. Does this mean that it is blown out? Thanks!

Sounds like air is bypassing the main piston somehow and the positive and negative air chambers are connected.
If it has an outer air sleeve round the inner air can then often the big o-rings between these get mashed out of place when fitting the sleeve.

If you only have a single skin air can then check the main air piston seal quad ring for damage.

Ok, I just checked the air can, and there were 2 o-rings out of place. Thanks!
Salute

Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 17:30 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
Any thoughts on pinching a 2.3 maxxis agressor double down, on a 30mm id dt ex511 at 25 psi a medium slow speed on a run without coming close to bottoming out. Ie not super hard hits.

The trail did have some pointy rocks but I've felt harder hits to the rim with this setup and no issues.

Am I looking at inserts/dh casing? Or would a tire a year season old be more prone to failure.
Correct me if im wrong but 30mm is a bit wide for a 2.3. Maxxis recommends 2.4 and above for 30mm tires. By running such a skinny tire on that wide of a rim you have changed the profile of the tire. This exposes the sidewall of the tire and can cause the tire to be more prone to pinches. I would recommend a wider tire on your current rims to avoid pinches. Double down is also a heavier casing than maxxis's dh case so changing wouldnt solve the issue.

O+
Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 18:16 Quote
Rogueuniform77 wrote:
rclugnut wrote:
Any thoughts on pinching a 2.3 maxxis agressor double down, on a 30mm id dt ex511 at 25 psi a medium slow speed on a run without coming close to bottoming out. Ie not super hard hits.

The trail did have some pointy rocks but I've felt harder hits to the rim with this setup and no issues.

Am I looking at inserts/dh casing? Or would a tire a year season old be more prone to failure.
Correct me if im wrong but 30mm is a bit wide for a 2.3. Maxxis recommends 2.4 and above for 30mm tires. By running such a skinny tire on that wide of a rim you have changed the profile of the tire. This exposes the sidewall of the tire and can cause the tire to be more prone to pinches. I would recommend a wider tire on your current rims to avoid pinches. Double down is also a heavier casing than maxxis's dh case so changing wouldnt solve the issue.

It's a fuzzy line based on their chart, my next one will be 2.5 for sure!

O+
Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 20:46 Quote
An I old tire is more prone to failure vs a new tire. It could have already been damaged and just finally let go.

O+
Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 21:27 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
harry-steen27 wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:
You can’t bump the stroke up by just increasing the length of the spring.

There are spacers installed that limit the travel of the shock and you stock spring should still work.
yeah I knew that but how do I remove the spacers?

Unscrew the bolts that are next to the shaft. remove those and you have more stroke.
Thanks!

Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 22:07 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
An I old tire is more prone to failure vs a new tire. It could have already been damaged and just finally let go.
But an old tire would be expected to let go on the sidewall vs a pinch which would likely happen with tubless from being on a rim that was too wide

Posted: Jun 13, 2021 at 22:34 Quote
The DD casing is slightly lighter than the DH casing. Notably, it has the same number of sidewall plies, but less layers under the tread.

O+
Posted: Jun 14, 2021 at 9:06 Quote
im 100% sure this has been covered numerous times BUT;

will i shorten effective top tube length with higher rise handlebars?

Posted: Jun 14, 2021 at 9:13 Quote
You will lengthen it. If you have a long enough steerer tube you can also put more spacers underneath and switch to a longer stem. That will achieve the same thing and if you have carbon bars possibly be cheaper.

Edit: actually I should clarify. This doesn't technically change the dimension "ett" which is found on geo charts since that only measures to the top of the headset. But your cockpit will be longer.

O+
Posted: Jun 14, 2021 at 9:25 Quote
darn, i'm trying to get it a bit shorter when seated. already have the seat all the way forward on the rails.

O+
Posted: Jun 14, 2021 at 9:30 Quote
Rogueuniform77 wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:
An I old tire is more prone to failure vs a new tire. It could have already been damaged and just finally let go.
But an old tire would be expected to let go on the sidewall vs a pinch which would likely happen with tubless from being on a rim that was too wide

Sounds like that's my main issue... I'll run this till it's properly dead then swap in a 2.5 next go around.

And thanks for the info about the double down vs dh casing!

O+
Posted: Jun 14, 2021 at 9:34 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
shorter stem ?

was trying to avoid that as i try to stick to 50mm stems


 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.048311
Mobile Version of Website