Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 20, 2021 at 17:13 Quote
ausfer wrote:
I may have stripped my bottom bracket on my Trek Scratch 9 (2011). It has the Fox DHX RC-4, I want to look for a new frame, how do I get started with compatibility?

Unless you desperately want to save the shock, I would just get a whole new frame with the stock shock. The shock that comes with the bike will be better tuned for that bikes kinematics right off the bat (generally, I'm sure they're exceptions out there), vs a potentially long battle to get the RC-4 to feel as good as the stock one

Posted: Jun 20, 2021 at 17:52 Quote
watch123 wrote:
ausfer wrote:
I may have stripped my bottom bracket on my Trek Scratch 9 (2011). It has the Fox DHX RC-4, I want to look for a new frame, how do I get started with compatibility?

Unless you desperately want to save the shock, I would just get a whole new frame with the stock shock. The shock that comes with the bike will be better tuned for that bikes kinematics right off the bat (generally, I'm sure they're exceptions out there), vs a potentially long battle to get the RC-4 to feel as good as the stock one

That makes sense why most frames come with the rear coil/shock already.

Posted: Jun 20, 2021 at 18:59 Quote
ausfer wrote:
watch123 wrote:
ausfer wrote:
I may have stripped my bottom bracket on my Trek Scratch 9 (2011). It has the Fox DHX RC-4, I want to look for a new frame, how do I get started with compatibility?

Unless you desperately want to save the shock, I would just get a whole new frame with the stock shock. The shock that comes with the bike will be better tuned for that bikes kinematics right off the bat (generally, I'm sure they're exceptions out there), vs a potentially long battle to get the RC-4 to feel as good as the stock one

That makes sense why most frames come with the rear coil/shock already.

Exactly. For your situation I would take it to a bike shop to see if they can rescue the BB, sell it if possible, and get a new bike (assuming this is within your budget). I think you'll be amazed by the improvements in geometry over the past 10 years.

Posted: Jun 20, 2021 at 19:17 Quote
Brdjanin wrote:
Guys please help.
I over-tighten rear axle on Fuel EX 2020 and I cant unscrew rear wheel, any advice?
Today I put wd40 on the end of the axle and I will wait until tomorrow to try again...
Do you know any other method?

Thanks in advance.
Unscrew the hanger then try removing the axle

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 2:14 Quote
Anyone know why the max volume spacers in a Float X2 with trunion vs. normal mount is half? I.e. 205x60 is 2, 230x60 is 4? Haven't looked at both shocks in my hand at the same time or schematics but isn't the air spring the same?

Fox link with chart:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1078#tuningwithairvolumespacers

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 5:46 Quote
Anyone got any tips for getting a stubborn Rockshox fork air spring seal head out? I can't get it to drop below the circlip for removal.

I've tried pushing the air shaft in so that the air in the camber is not compressed but that didn't help. I had the same problem before on a older Pike and managed to push the air shaft out through the top of the fork but that's not working on this Lyrik (stanchion tapered near the top maybe?). I think the problem that time was the washer and/or wave spring was jammed beneath the seal head so it wouldn't move.

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 7:17 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone got any tips for getting a stubborn Rockshox fork air spring seal head out? I can't get it to drop below the circlip for removal.

I've tried pushing the air shaft in so that the air in the camber is not compressed but that didn't help. I had the same problem before on a older Pike and managed to push the air shaft out through the top of the fork but that's not working on this Lyrik (stanchion tapered near the top maybe?). I think the problem that time was the washer and/or wave spring was jammed beneath the seal head so it wouldn't move.

Remove the valve core/top cap so you're not pulling a vacuum? I've also used a rag to wrap around the foot nut and gave it a good yank.

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 7:22 Quote
Yeah top cap is out. The problem I'm having is pushing in the seal head to allow me to get the circlip out pre-yank.

Edit - managed to ease the circlip out with pliers and a thin screwdriver.

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 17:39 Quote
dingus wrote:
Yeah top cap is out. The problem I'm having is pushing in the seal head to allow me to get the circlip out pre-yank.

Edit - managed to ease the circlip out with pliers and a thin screwdriver.


Was it a 26er lyrik rc2dh with the blue seal head?

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 20:32 Quote
I took a good spill over the weekend (otb) and my rear brake (Magura Mt7) was leaking where the hose attaches to the master.

I cut the hose and put in a new barb and olive which stopped the leaking, but when I elevate the front end of the bike (think wheelie position) the lever goes soft. When the bike is level, brake power is fine, but lift the front end and pressure is lost.

I don’t find any leaks, I even replaced the entire hose and did a new bleed with the exact same symptoms.

Bad master? I don’t really know what else it could be?

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 20:53 Quote
Bad bleed, it takes a fair amount of patience to bleed mt7's also you have to point the lever a fair bit lower to help air getting out. Push through caliper, a few times without pushing back from top, knock the lever a few times with the back of a screw driver, seal the caliper syringe, pump the lever a few times, push a few times from the caliper, seal caliper and you're done.

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 21:03 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
Bad bleed, it takes a fair amount of patience to bleed mt7's also you have to point the lever a fair bit lower to help air getting out. Push through caliper, a few times without pushing back from top, knock the lever a few times with the back of a screw driver, seal the caliper syringe, pump the lever a few times, push a few times from the caliper, seal caliper and you're done.

Possibly, I have bled them quite a few times, and they are always a pita. But, usually they just feel like trash with a bad bleed, these feel rock solid until the front end is elevated, pump the brake and it goes soft.

Is this is a normal symptom of a bad bleed?

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 21:15 Quote
Symptom of not enough oil in the resi. It moves around when not full

Posted: Jun 21, 2021 at 21:28 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
Symptom of not enough oil in the resi. It moves around when not full

That makes sense, I’ll give the bleed another shot. Thanks for the help!

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 1:03 Quote
gramboh wrote:
Anyone know why the max volume spacers in a Float X2 with trunion vs. normal mount is half? I.e. 205x60 is 2, 230x60 is 4? Haven't looked at both shocks in my hand at the same time or schematics but isn't the air spring the same?

Fox link with chart:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1078#tuningwithairvolumespacers

Ended up talking to Fox Canada, turns out I was wrong, the air can and shock body are totally different on the trunion mount Float X2 hence less spacers. Not sure if that impacts feel/air spring curve tuning or not but it's kind of weird it's not mentioned in their guides.


 
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