Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 15:43 Quote
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 15:47 Quote
Artjr wrote:
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Could be BB, pedal, or suspension.

When they say they fixed the suspension did they just grease and tighten or replace bushings/bearings?

Edit.. just an FYI sometimes trying to locate creaks and ticks can be a major pain. Make sure to go over your bike and make sure everything is tightened/greased properly. I had a bike that had a creaky headset that I was sure was something else.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 15:54 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Artjr wrote:
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Could be BB, pedal, or suspension.

When they say they fixed the suspension did they just grease and tighten or replace bushings/bearings?

Edit.. just an FYI sometimes trying to locate creaks and ticks can be a major pain. Make sure to go over your bike and make sure everything is tightened/greased properly. I had a bike that had a creaky headset that I was sure was something else.

or saddle

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 15:56 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Artjr wrote:
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Could be BB, pedal, or suspension.

When they say they fixed the suspension did they just grease and tighten or replace bushings/bearings?

Edit.. just an FYI sometimes trying to locate creaks and ticks can be a major pain. Make sure to go over your bike and make sure everything is tightened/greased properly. I had a bike that had a creaky headset that I was sure was something else.
I chased one for quite a while once before realizing it was a cable housing in the stop with a little bit of dust on it. I've greased steerer tubes and stem clamps to get them quiet as well.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 15:58 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Artjr wrote:
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Could be BB, pedal, or suspension.

When they say they fixed the suspension did they just grease and tighten or replace bushings/bearings?

Edit.. just an FYI sometimes trying to locate creaks and ticks can be a major pain. Make sure to go over your bike and make sure everything is tightened/greased properly. I had a bike that had a creaky headset that I was sure was something else.
I know exactly what you're saying. I actually work on other type of equipment and some noise issues are a pain in ass because the noise just travels through the machine.
They did the pivot bearing and bushings and new headset back in july last year. I changed the pedals. I keep thinking it's the BB and might just get the Wheels MFG.
I tell ya, this is frustrating as hell.

when the fixed the suspension noise the just greased it. Told me it was because I washed the bike one time.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 17:14 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:
Artjr wrote:
why is my LBS mechanic such a dick ? A long Story. I think he was a IT guy back in the 90s. A few miles after the bike was totally rebuilt by this guy. ( I didn't ride for 6 months the bike just sat right after it was rebuilt.) I had a click on heavy pedal strokes.He said BB even though it was a new shimano he just replace. They changed the BB the a Origin 8 revolver 86/92 thread together, I told them I wanted the Wheels MFG before they even started.. When I picked up the bike they told me the noise was coming from suspension and they fixed it. I said why did you replace the BB then?. 30 miles later the noise came back. I took apart everything but BB , lubed and cleaned. The noise is still there ( Click click click) with each pedal stroke under a load. Should I just find another mechanic. The bikes a 2017 RM Thunderbolt Cabon.

Could be BB, pedal, or suspension.

When they say they fixed the suspension did they just grease and tighten or replace bushings/bearings?

Edit.. just an FYI sometimes trying to locate creaks and ticks can be a major pain. Make sure to go over your bike and make sure everything is tightened/greased properly. I had a bike that had a creaky headset that I was sure was something else.

or saddle

Or seatpost, or rear axle, or headset, or...

It could be almost anything.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 18:48 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Petre wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:


I would double check that it is actually 27/27+ I believe that they are only 27.5+/29.

100% sure. the ad has a photo of the lower leg where the sticker says that. also fox website and reviews say theres a 27 and a 29 option

I know they make a 27.5 version but the 27.5 version is not plus tire compatible.

Yeah the 27.5 lowers are not plus compatible. Up to 2.6 yeah and you can fit a 2.8 low profile, though I wouldn't in the pnw or anywhere rainy. You definitely aren't fitting any proper 29 tire. Just do a lowers swap.

Posted: Jun 22, 2021 at 20:48 Quote
I have a 2016 Banshee Spitfire, non boost. It has modular dropouts and boost ones are available. If I were to get boost wheels (I have a boost fork already following abuse and neglect of stock unit), would I also need boost cranks? Or just a boost chainring? Or none of the above, f it? Thoughts?

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 1:22 Quote
madpanda wrote:
Twenty6ers4life wrote:
madpanda wrote:
I have a titanium frame and the seatpost is a little ovalized, so it's less than 31.6mm on the sides and over 31.6mm front and back. I don't have the tools to measure more accurately. When I put a seatclamp on, when it is slightly torqued it's enough for the tube to be round, and my seatpost slides in easily. Too easily, once the tube is "round" there is too much slack. I have tried different types of clamps, and I can slow the slippage, but after a couple of miles, the post has already dropped enough for me to notice I am not at my preferred height.

I have tried a partial coke can shim, and fiber paste as well.

So I was thinking about 3d printing a seat post at 31.6mm, lather it up with jb weld, and stick it in the tube while there is a bit of torque on the clamp so it's round. Then after curing, use heat to melt out the printed sea tube.

It's either that, or I try and figure out how to cold set the tube to be more round, but I figure it would still slip since it's already too big.



Background
I got this frame from a Chinese builder, and have purchased from them before, but their quality has dropped significantly, and they haven't shown any concern to fix the issue.


Just get a burlier seatpost clamp with an M6 bolt, add carbon paste and torque that bitch down.


I've tried a couple different clamps, some weird ones that clamp the post separately, but I don't think I have tried one with an m6 bolt. Which would you recommend?

You could also try a clamp on the seatpost itself as well. We used to run them a lot in cyclocross to stop seatposts slipping. It tightens to the seatpost itself at your set height and then sits on top of the clamp which is on the frames seattube

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 8:26 Quote
ryetoast wrote:
I have a 2016 Banshee Spitfire, non boost. It has modular dropouts and boost ones are available. If I were to get boost wheels (I have a boost fork already following abuse and neglect of stock unit), would I also need boost cranks? Or just a boost chainring? Or none of the above, f it? Thoughts?

As long as you have a direct mount chainring thats all you would need to change but you don't necessarily need to depending on how your chainline looks. You are looking at a few millimeters of change in reality.

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 8:36 Quote
ryetoast wrote:
I have a 2016 Banshee Spitfire, non boost. It has modular dropouts and boost ones are available. If I were to get boost wheels (I have a boost fork already following abuse and neglect of stock unit), would I also need boost cranks? Or just a boost chainring? Or none of the above, f it? Thoughts?
Both otherwise your chainline will suck

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 8:44 Quote
ryetoast wrote:
I have a 2016 Banshee Spitfire, non boost. It has modular dropouts and boost ones are available. If I were to get boost wheels (I have a boost fork already following abuse and neglect of stock unit), would I also need boost cranks? Or just a boost chainring? Or none of the above, f it? Thoughts?

Ideally you'd get a boost-spaced chainring. Most boost and non-boost cranks are identical except for which chainring they come with. That said, it often doesn't matter depending on how short the chainstays are. I recommend trying it changing only the wheel and see if the chain catches on the next-larger cog while in the highest gears. If yes, you need a boost chainring. If not, you don't.

Best info I've found on this is at Wolftooth.

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 10:19 Quote
melanthius wrote:
ryetoast wrote:
I have a 2016 Banshee Spitfire, non boost. It has modular dropouts and boost ones are available. If I were to get boost wheels (I have a boost fork already following abuse and neglect of stock unit), would I also need boost cranks? Or just a boost chainring? Or none of the above, f it? Thoughts?

Ideally you'd get a boost-spaced chainring. Most boost and non-boost cranks are identical except for which chainring they come with. That said, it often doesn't matter depending on how short the chainstays are. I recommend trying it changing only the wheel and see if the chain catches on the next-larger cog while in the highest gears. If yes, you need a boost chainring. If not, you don't.

Best info I've found on this is at Wolftooth.

Well cool, that's easy! Thanks much.

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 10:24 Quote
Today in a middle of a ride the deluxe rt rear shock just lost some air and the rebound nod isn't affecting anymore no matter what the shock is on the fastest rebound
Any suggestions what should I do?
Service or replace?

Posted: Jun 23, 2021 at 10:37 Quote
proccesrider wrote:
Today in a middle of a ride the deluxe rt rear shock just lost some air and the rebound nod isn't affecting anymore no matter what the shock is on the fastest rebound
Any suggestions what should I do?
Service or replace?

Probably needs a service. If anything is really toast inside they will let you know and make a call weather it is worth replacing parts or whole new shock.


 
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