Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 21, 2021 at 17:01 Quote
I think I used too much Slikoleum in my 2015 Fox 36 air chamber.
My fork is stuck down.
Apparently there's a port that allows air to pass between positive and negative chambers?

Do I just remove the air shaft and clean everything?

Where is this opening between positive and negative chamber s?

Thanks in advance!

Posted: Jul 21, 2021 at 17:19 Quote
oatkinso wrote:
anyone got any tips for getting lever throw to an absolute minimum on code rsc's? (contact adjust is already at the minimum obviously). tend to find I get slightly more throw on the rear too, is that purely because theres more fluid/hose? cheers.

You'll want to overbleed your system a little. Push the pistons out and then pressurize from the top down. Don't attach the syringe to the caliper.

Posted: Jul 21, 2021 at 23:45 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
Bro there will be people saying that what I’m saying is bs lol but what I did with my Code RSC’s to shorten the lever throw was bought some Magura Storm HC rotors. They are 2mm thick and those along with a solid bleed and dialing in your contact adj will give you what you’re looking for

Cheers. When you say dialing in the contact adjust, do you mean something other than setting it at minimum?

Posted: Jul 21, 2021 at 23:51 Quote
seraph wrote:
You'll want to overbleed your system a little. Push the pistons out and then pressurize from the top down. Don't attach the syringe to the caliper.

Thanks. Yeah I bled from the lever only with the wheel in last night but still no joy. I did notice the throw went to almost nothing when I really put a lot of pressure on the syringe, but there’s no way to keep that pressure on and not have all the fluid spew itself everywhere when you take the syringe off?

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 4:55 Quote
oatkinso wrote:
seraph wrote:
You'll want to overbleed your system a little. Push the pistons out and then pressurize from the top down. Don't attach the syringe to the caliper.

Thanks. Yeah I bled from the lever only with the wheel in last night but still no joy. I did notice the throw went to almost nothing when I really put a lot of pressure on the syringe, but there’s no way to keep that pressure on and not have all the fluid spew itself everywhere when you take the syringe off?
Bleed like SRAM says except with the RSC dial not full opposite direction but more like halfway (or only 25% if that doesn't help you)

SRAM service mechanic tip:
Link to correct timestamp:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACGyA1QVWIg&t=433s

BTW: with the bleeding edge connection you can pressure like said by seraph and just close it while pressuring the syringe... Disadvantage here is that is difficult to get it same every time. Too much and you have zero through. Too little and it doesn't do much.

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 5:20 Quote
Cheers @Grumposaur thats super helpful and makes total sense. Not sure why the official SRAM guidance isnt to do this seeing as the default throw at mininum contact is quite large, but anyway. Also on a slightly seperate note, ive only just realised but the 'contact' arrow on my front (right) brake lever is printed the wrong way around ha.

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 5:27 Quote
oatkinso wrote:
Cheers @Grumposaur thats super helpful and makes total sense. Not sure why the official SRAM guidance isnt to do this seeing as the default throw at mininum contact is quite large, but anyway. Also on a slightly seperate note, ive only just realised but the 'contact' arrow on my front (right) brake lever is printed the wrong way around ha.
to avoid claims from joeys going OTB the default contact is way inlol

i doubt it is printed wrongly btw. There is no left or right lever they are all the same. So when installed one has a arrow up and the other has a arrow down....

Other option is btw making another bleed-block, which is just a bit less thick then the original. Also provides repeatable results.

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 9:30 Quote
Does anyone know if I can use offset bushings on my shock in order to steepen my HTA and raise my BB so when I mullet my bike is has roughly the same geometry as stock?

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 9:34 Quote
T00Holmes wrote:
Does anyone know if I can use offset bushings on my shock in order to steepen my HTA and raise my BB so when I mullet my bike is has roughly the same geometry as stock?

Yes

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 9:47 Quote
T00Holmes wrote:
Does anyone know if I can use offset bushings on my shock in order to steepen my HTA and raise my BB so when I mullet my bike is has roughly the same geometry as stock?

Maybe. Disregarding frame-specific details like clearance issues, steepening things is tricky because when you use them to make the shock eye-to-eye longer there’s to way to avoid a torque on one or both bushings which will try to turn it the other way around inside the mounting hardware.

It’s a bit like trying to balance a ball on top of a hill: if it’s exactly on the top, where the surface is mathematically level, it won’t roll down either side, but as soon as it’s a little bit off-center it will keep rolling downhill. The relative rotation of the shock and the frame members it is mounted to guarantees that you won’t always be at the top of the hill.

It should work best with a frame which has very little relative rotation between the frame members and shock, like the ones that use a yoke. But even in that case I wouldn’t try it without locktite between the “bushing” (really an offset-drilled metal cylinder) and frame member and good grease between the “bushing” and the actual bushing, be it DU or polymer.

The core of the problem is that the offset bushing doesn’t key in to the frame and so it can’t resist torque except by clamping friction. This doesn’t matter much for non-offset bushings because the torque is low (as long as the actual bushing interface is performing properly) and the consequence for the bushing spinning in the frame, for instance when the actual bushing interface seizes due to lack of maintenance, is also low. In that case the bushing spins against the frame member and wears the parts, but it doesn’t change the geometry of the bike.

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 18:47 Quote
Client9 wrote:
I think I used too much Slikoleum in my 2015 Fox 36 air chamber.
My fork is stuck down.
Apparently there's a port that allows air to pass between positive and negative chambers?

Do I just remove the air shaft and clean everything?

Where is this opening between positive and negative chamber s?

Thanks in advance!

On that fork (with the NA air spring) the transfer port is on the transfer shaft that’s attached to the air cap. If you pull it out and wipe it down you’ll see a very nicely machined elongated dimple on it most of the way down. That’s what allows air to bypass the inner o-ring of the piston when it’s at the sag point.

On later forks (NA2 air spring) they got rid of the transfer shaft and that inner o-ring by machining a dimple on the inside of the stanchion so the air bypasses the main piston o-ring. This removed a dynamic seal and lowered weight but also got rid of the ability to adjust travel without needing a new air shaft.

Posted: Jul 22, 2021 at 19:43 Quote
melanthius wrote:
On that fork (with the NA air spring) the transfer port is on the transfer shaft that’s attached to the air cap. If you pull it out and wipe it down you’ll see a very nicely machined elongated dimple on it most of the way down. That’s what allows air to bypass the inner o-ring of the piston when it’s at the sag point.

You the man! This is the info I needed.
thanks!

Posted: Jul 23, 2021 at 8:59 Quote
Hey guys long time no post!

Just a quick question - I currently am in the process of trying to modernise my 2012 Lapierre Spicy for a week in the Scottish Highlands in August. I currently run a 10spd 34T cassette on a 1x10 shimano drivetrain, with a zee derailleur.

I would love to upgrade my cassette to something with a bigger range; these dinner-plate sized cassettes i'm seeing on newer bikes look great and I feel that my current set-up means I have to really grind out the climbs (heavy bike as well lol)

Is it possible to upgrade to a much larger (42T?) cassette on this old 26" bike? I've heard that the Zees aren't compatible with larger cassette sizes, or even that 26" wheels aren't compatible with larger cassettes - can it be done, will I need to get a whole new rear mech etc? Thanks in advance

Posted: Jul 23, 2021 at 9:05 Quote
Angryham wrote:
Hey guys long time no post!

Just a quick question - I currently am in the process of trying to modernise my 2012 Lapierre Spicy for a week in the Scottish Highlands in August. I currently run a 10spd 34T cassette on a 1x10 shimano drivetrain, with a zee derailleur.

I would love to upgrade my cassette to something with a bigger range; these dinner-plate sized cassettes i'm seeing on newer bikes look great and I feel that my current set-up means I have to really grind out the climbs (heavy bike as well lol)

Is it possible to upgrade to a much larger (42T?) cassette on this old 26" bike? I've heard that the Zees aren't compatible with larger cassette sizes, or even that 26" wheels aren't compatible with larger cassettes - can it be done, will I need to get a whole new rear mech etc? Thanks in advance

Not sure if they are still around but a goat link on a zee with a range extender cog may help increase your range to about 42t without replacing your derailleur but you will need to do some research to confirm.

Posted: Jul 23, 2021 at 9:31 Quote
Angryham wrote:
Hey guys long time no post!

Just a quick question - I currently am in the process of trying to modernise my 2012 Lapierre Spicy for a week in the Scottish Highlands in August. I currently run a 10spd 34T cassette on a 1x10 shimano drivetrain, with a zee derailleur.

I would love to upgrade my cassette to something with a bigger range; these dinner-plate sized cassettes i'm seeing on newer bikes look great and I feel that my current set-up means I have to really grind out the climbs (heavy bike as well lol)

Is it possible to upgrade to a much larger (42T?) cassette on this old 26" bike? I've heard that the Zees aren't compatible with larger cassette sizes, or even that 26" wheels aren't compatible with larger cassettes - can it be done, will I need to get a whole new rear mech etc? Thanks in advance

I think it can be done. The 26" wheel isn't your issue though. You need to look at the freehub and make sure the cassette you get matches the spline configuration. Since you have a Shimano setup it'll very likely be fully compatible with the 10 speed cassettes offered out there like the Sunrace items. That and you'll have to watch the rear mech like mentioned above.
https://www.sunrace.com/en/products/detail/csmx3


 
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