Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 9:01 Quote
noakeabean wrote:
I have a RockShox Pike fork (its a little older) and it is supposed to be a 160mm fork. It is sucked down in its travel so it only have about 140mm of travel. How do I fix this? I have 75 psi in it. Thanks!

Sounds to me like too much pressure in the negative chamber.
Inflate the fork to its max rated air pressure. This will hopefully extend the fork until the piston reaches the air swap port and everything will sort itself out. Then deflate (VERY SLOWLY) to your correct riding pressure. If you deflate the fork too fast, it will simply suck down again. If this doesn't fix it, then you will need to disassemble the air piston assembly as mentioned above.

Vacuum in the lowers is very unlikely to be the cause of your problem. I would put money on it being too much air in the negative chamber.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 9:03 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
noakeabean wrote:
I have a RockShox Pike fork (its a little older) and it is supposed to be a 160mm fork. It is sucked down in its travel so it only have about 140mm of travel. How do I fix this? I have 75 psi in it. Thanks!

Sounds to me like too much pressure in the negative chamber.
Inflate the fork to its max rated air pressure. This will hopefully extend the fork until the piston reaches the air swap port and everything will sort itself out. Then deflate (VERY SLOWLY) to your correct riding pressure. If you deflate the fork too fast, it will simply suck down again. If this doesn't fix it, then you will need to disassemble the air piston assembly as mentioned above.

Vacuum in the lowers is very unlikely to be the cause of your problem. I would put money on it being too much air in the negative chamber.
Ok. Thanks! I'll try this. I'll keep y'all in the loop to see if this fixes it!

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 9:03 Quote
Brandonzamp wrote:
Looking at buying a set of 2005-2007 Marzocchi All Mountain 2 forks for cheap. Reason they're cheap is that they apparently lose air while under weight, which would rule out a faulty schrader valve. Anyone have any idea what could be the issue? Based on my reading I understand that it can be as simple as a bad o-ring or possibly a bad air cartridge.

Thanks, any ideas would help!

Spares for pre-fox marzocchis are nigh on impossible to source. Unless you want the fork as a museum item, i'd say it is best avoided. If anything worse than an o-ring has failed, it will take some serious ingenuity to repair. You will be very unlikely to just buy replacement parts to drop in.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 13:06 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
jimbomodder wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:


how much travel are they supposed to have and how much pressure did you put in?
sold to me as 80mm. I put 75psi in.

Due to the coil negative spring, excessive pressure in the air spring will increase the travel available. However 75psi is not particularly excessive and 40mm extra travel is more than I'd expect to see. My guess is that the little roll-pin used to adjust travel has fallen out or failed. I'd need photos of the spring disassembled again to say any better than that. As for the springs falling off again after 1 compression, sounds like the seats are no longer clipping on to the springs correctly. Or the spring retainer plate has come unclipped and fallen out of the bottom of the stanchion again. Sounds like you need to take it apart again and have a look inside.
right ok well it'll be at the weekend probably now, definitely need looking at again.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 14:09 Quote
Currently have SRAM Code R brakes installed on my bike. I want to remove them in such a way so that I can sell them and ship them. Searched plenty online how I can best do that but all I find is videos and tutorials on how to shorten hoses, replace pads or install new brakes.

- After removing the hose from the rear brake lever, how do I ensure the hose won’t leak fluid when pulling the hose through my frame (internally routed)? Is there some part which must be used as a plug on the open end of the hose?
- After having removed the hose from the rear brake lever, I understand that I can’t simply attach the hose to the brake lever again without using a new SRAM barb and olive. Is that correct, or can I screw the hose in the lever again? Using a new barb/olive to attach again is not the preferred solution anyway because the new buyer of the brakes has to fit the brake/hose on his bike and then use again a new barb/olive.
- Is there also some part that I can or must use to plug the brake lever to prevent fluid from leaking, assuming I need to ship the brake lever unattached to the hose and rear caliper?
- For the front brake and hose, which is not internally routed, I plan on simply removing them from the frame and leave everything attached as is. Any issues if I would ship like that?

Any help appreciated.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 14:38 Quote
namartens wrote:
- After removing the hose from the rear brake lever, how do I ensure the hose won’t leak fluid when pulling the hose through my frame (internally routed)? Is there some part which must be used as a plug on the open end of the hose?

It will only dribble a little bit, since the other end (the caliper) is still air tight and so there is a vaccum. You can try a piece of tape to help, but likely not needed. But even that little drop or two will be enough to allow air into the system, so the buyer will want to do a simple bleed, or their brakes will likely be very spongy.


namartens wrote:
- After having removed the hose from the rear brake lever, I understand that I can’t simply attach the hose to the brake lever again without using a new SRAM barb and olive.

If you haven't cut the hose, yes you can easily reattach using the same barb & olive. But they will still want to bleed it due to comment above. Each time you replace the barb and olive, you should count on cutting the hose so losing at least 1" of length.


namartens wrote:
- For the front brake and hose, which is not internally routed, I plan on simply removing them from the frame and leave everything attached as is. Any issues if I would ship like that?

Nope, all good. Just put a block or piece of cardboard between the brake pads (or thicker piece if you're not including the pads) to prevent the pads from accidentally being squeezed and possible problems.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 14:47 Quote
namartens wrote:
Currently have SRAM Code R brakes installed on my bike. I want to remove them in such a way so that I can sell them and ship them. Searched plenty online how I can best do that but all I find is videos and tutorials on how to shorten hoses, replace pads or install new brakes.

- After removing the hose from the rear brake lever, how do I ensure the hose won’t leak fluid when pulling the hose through my frame (internally routed)? Is there some part which must be used as a plug on the open end of the hose?
- After having removed the hose from the rear brake lever, I understand that I can’t simply attach the hose to the brake lever again without using a new SRAM barb and olive. Is that correct? Using a new barb/olive to attach again is not the preferred solution anyway because the new buyer of the brakes has to fit the brake/hose on his bike and then use again a new barb/olive.
- Is there also some part that I can or must use to plug the brake lever to prevent fluid from leaking, assuming I need to ship the brake lever unattached to the hose and rear caliper?
- For the front brake and hose, which is not internally routed, I plan on simply removing them from the frame and leave everything attached as is. Any issues if I would ship like that?

Any help appreciated.

In order of professionalism
1) Ask your LBS for the little doohickeys that plug the lever and hoses like this when they come from the factory.
2) Use some plumbers putty to stop up the lever and hose to prevent leaking.
3) Reconnect the caliper and lever and bleed it and sell it as a connected set (which brakes often come as and which users are accustomed disconnecting and triming as needed. You are selling used so don't need to also send them another olive and barb. This is used parts FFS.)
4) Don't reconnect it and drain the system. Explain that the parts are dry and they will need to do a full bleed. Totally acceptable in a used part private party sale.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 15:05 Quote
FWIW, no shop I have ever worked at has saved those lever plugs.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 15:45 Quote
I've got a lever plug as well as a hose plug that threads in I could help you out with. Pm me and we can go from there. There's no saving the bleed or olive as far as I know.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 18:22 Quote
Hi I am looking for a bike computer to get to just get basic information from my rides. My friend has a Specialized Speedzone computer (I think). I was looking into that one and could not seem to find out If the computer comes with the mounting kit or the other way around or if you have to buy them each separately.

Thanks!

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 18:32 Quote
Lion1 wrote:
Hi I am looking for a bike computer to get to just get basic information from my rides. My friend has a Specialized Speedzone computer (I think). I was looking into that one and could not seem to find out If the computer comes with the mounting kit or the other way around or if you have to buy them each separately.

Thanks!
Should come with hardware

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 19:01 Quote
adamweld wrote:
I went to take off the rear derailleur of the bike I just bought, and noticed two things:

* SRAM used a T25 bolt rather than the standard 5mm hex (dumb)
* the PO stripped the shit out of it

It's a SRAM X01 11 speed RD. I'm pretty sure this is the correct bit of kit but its $30 and out of stock. Once I mangle the thing to get it out, can I use the bolt from another SRAM RD? Are they all the same size?

You can find this on amazon, I just purchase one after buying two new derailleurs (long story) because I couldn't find this assembly until last night after receiving both derailleurs. Now I have to return the derailleurs ‍♂️

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 19:03 Quote
Yup, I had a 2008 66 with Ata, thank goodness for the 3 year warranty, first time it was damper; replaced with 2009, next year ATA pooped itself and was replaced with the ti spring from 2010. Year after that and three sets of seals later the nickel coated stanchions flaked and it wouldn't hold oil anymore, and warranty was over on top of that. And yet I have marzocchi forks from the late 90's still in working order.[/Quote]

I have a set of 2002 Monsters that are still perfectly functional. They are a little rough looking, scratched paint, some scratching on the stanchions, but they are awesome. Love the old Marz forks, kinda disappointed that their quality went down so much in the mid 2000s. Think I might pass on the AM2's sounds like. $60 is a good price but not if they don't work or are a total pain in the keister.

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 19:05 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Brandonzamp wrote:
Looking at buying a set of 2005-2007 Marzocchi All Mountain 2 forks for cheap. Reason they're cheap is that they apparently lose air while under weight, which would rule out a faulty schrader valve. Anyone have any idea what could be the issue? Based on my reading I understand that it can be as simple as a bad o-ring or possibly a bad air cartridge.

Thanks, any ideas would help!

Spares for pre-fox marzocchis are nigh on impossible to source. Unless you want the fork as a museum item, i'd say it is best avoided. If anything worse than an o-ring has failed, it will take some serious ingenuity to repair. You will be very unlikely to just buy replacement parts to drop in.

Yeah, think I'll pass on em. $60 isn't much to pay for em but they'd pretty much only be good for a museum piece, which I am not really looking to do. Finding a seal kit for my '02 Monsters was hard enough, nevermind a new air spring chamber for these AM2's

Posted: Jul 27, 2021 at 19:11 Quote
The piece where the b limit screw on my SRAM X01 is so worn that it won't hold the b limit screw in place anymore. I asked my LBS if they could get me a new GX derailleur after being told they couldn't get me that part and they told me it would be a month or so before they were available so I put my name on the list. About a week ago after not hearing from them I purchased a new SRAM X01 online. Went in to the bike shop last night and they had just received the GX derailleur, it was cheaper, so I bought it and planned on returning the X01 that was in the mail. Then last night, I found the piece I had been looking for online for only $20 (dumb, I know). Now I just received the X01 in the mail to find that it has a new upgraded assembly using significantly thicker metal on this piece that has worn on my old derailleur. I also found this piece alone on amazon here.

Does anyone know if this newer assembly will work on the older derailleurs? I would like to put it on my old X01 if so and save myself about $100 and have a more durable b limit assembly if possible


 
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