Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 9:32 Quote
seraph wrote:
12x100 can sometimes be converted to 15x100 but it usually requires a complete axle swap. I'm sure that some 20x110 hubs can be downsized to 15x100, if they say they come with the right end caps.

Would you know where to get the parts for that

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 11:05 Quote
Could be worth while to get a rim and spokes and use you current hub if that’s a possibility

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 11:50 Quote
mtn2surf wrote:
seraph wrote:
12x100 can sometimes be converted to 15x100 but it usually requires a complete axle swap. I'm sure that some 20x110 hubs can be downsized to 15x100, if they say they come with the right end caps.

Would you know where to get the parts for that

The internet.

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 12:38 Quote
Hey guys im wondering if this little knob on the bottom of the shaft of my RS Deluxe? I have super deluxe which has the bearings on the bottom of the shock with the 2 bolts to secure it on my Hightower V2. Does that little knob allow me to swap out the bushings for the roller bearings?? Thanks for any help.
what s the little knob on the bottom of the shaft for

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 12:43 Quote
That is the port to charge the internal floating piston. Don’t eff with it.

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 12:44 Quote
You push the bushings out with a press.

Posted: Sep 12, 2021 at 12:48 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
Hey guys im wondering if this little knob on the bottom of the shaft of my RS Deluxe? I have super deluxe which has the bearings on the bottom of the shock with the 2 bolts to secure it on my Hightower V2. Does that little knob allow me to swap out the bushings for the roller bearings?? Thanks for any help.
what s the little knob on the bottom of the shaft for

no, that hole is for pressuring the damper. there's a Schrader valve below the cover.
you would have to buy a whole new damper body to convert the bottom mount from bushing to true radial bearing.

https://www.modernbike.com/rockshox-damper-body-ifp-for-deluxe-super-deluxe-bearing-eyelet-75mm

you just need to press out the bushing if you want to convert to needle bearings like the RWC needle bearing kit

Posted: Sep 13, 2021 at 11:01 Quote
ryetoast wrote:
melanthius wrote:
ryetoast wrote:
My chain is falling off my front ring all the time all of a sudden. The ring and chain are pretty new - this behavior has started after maybe 10 rides on them. The clutch works as far as I can tell - it's certainly harder to extend the derailleur when it's on. Tightening it didn't help. Ring is a 32t Blackspire oval, replacing a 32t Raceface round, kept the chain length the same. The drops happen on the downhills in small gears - flow trails, tech trails, anything that compresses the suspension. I've had this bike since 2016 and prior to this week, I've lost the chain maybe four times. I think I lost it four times on my last half-hour trail ride. Thoughts?

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be drag in the freehub. I cleaned and lubed it and the problem went away. The thing that put me on that scent was, with the bike in the stand, spinning up the wheel real fast, shifting into a low gear, and then seeing the top length of the chain go slack when I stopped spinning the pedals.

Great call! Freehub ratchet mechanism is now clean, but the freehub bearings feel like there's gravel in em. It's a SRAM MTH746 hub. Anyone know how to get the damn freehub off the axle so the bearings can be serviced or the freehub body replaced? It looks like it's just sort of press fit (or rusted) on there...

Edit, after a couple hours of suffering in the garage, in case anyone is curious:

The freehub body is indeed pressfit onto the axle...housing...aluminum tube thing, and the freehub bearings felt like crap because some doofus (me) overtightened the crap out of the hub, not because they were actually bad (yet). I whacked them with a socket from the hub/inward side of the freehub body and they spun nicely again. All reassembled, and the chain tension does look a bit more consistent when backpedaling with the wheel spinning fast. Also cleaned and lubed the clutch just in case. Will test it out tomorrow and report back.

How was the ride? Did it confirm the fix?

Posted: Sep 13, 2021 at 13:36 Quote
melanthius wrote:
ryetoast wrote:
melanthius wrote:


I had a similar problem and it turned out to be drag in the freehub. I cleaned and lubed it and the problem went away. The thing that put me on that scent was, with the bike in the stand, spinning up the wheel real fast, shifting into a low gear, and then seeing the top length of the chain go slack when I stopped spinning the pedals.

Great call! Freehub ratchet mechanism is now clean, but the freehub bearings feel like there's gravel in em. It's a SRAM MTH746 hub. Anyone know how to get the damn freehub off the axle so the bearings can be serviced or the freehub body replaced? It looks like it's just sort of press fit (or rusted) on there...

Edit, after a couple hours of suffering in the garage, in case anyone is curious:

The freehub body is indeed pressfit onto the axle...housing...aluminum tube thing, and the freehub bearings felt like crap because some doofus (me) overtightened the crap out of the hub, not because they were actually bad (yet). I whacked them with a socket from the hub/inward side of the freehub body and they spun nicely again. All reassembled, and the chain tension does look a bit more consistent when backpedaling with the wheel spinning fast. Also cleaned and lubed the clutch just in case. Will test it out tomorrow and report back.

How was the ride? Did it confirm the fix?

Yes! Thanks so much, I would never in a million years have thought to check the hub.

Posted: Sep 13, 2021 at 15:33 Quote
Fantastic! Very glad that someone else was able to benefit from my past annoyance at that particular mystery. I tried three chainrings and bought a taco chainguide before I figured it out.

Posted: Sep 14, 2021 at 9:07 Quote
Hey folks, I want to fit my Deemax wheelset on an older bike. I think I can just buy an adaptor for the axle diameter but not the length. Either I can make replacement spacers for the ends to bring the axle length in a few millimeters (this would require some time though...) or I could just buzz off a few mm's from the sides of the caps.

Would this work? would I need to only buzz some off of one side? the brake side I think would result in the rotor being in a different spot in relation to the caliper...

Posted: Sep 14, 2021 at 9:39 Quote
Measure thrice cut once, better yet, use a lathe ot take to a machine shop. If they are not square you're hosed. And definitely take into account brake mount and how close spoke flangecomes to fork. You may have ro redish wheel after.

Posted: Sep 14, 2021 at 11:48 Quote
rosemarywheel wrote:
Hey folks, I want to fit my Deemax wheelset on an older bike. I think I can just buy an adaptor for the axle diameter but not the length. Either I can make replacement spacers for the ends to bring the axle length in a few millimeters (this would require some time though...) or I could just buzz off a few mm's from the sides of the caps.

Would this work? would I need to only buzz some off of one side? the brake side I think would result in the rotor being in a different spot in relation to the caliper...

What size are the hubs currently, and what (dropout/axle) size are the frame/fork you want to put them in?
What these numbers are, and therefor which of the many many so called "standards" they comply with, determines how much you would need to trim off the spacers in total, and how much of this removed material needs to come from each end.

Eg if the hub is 142 and the frame is 135, you just need to trim 3.5mm from each end. However if the hub is 148 and the frame is 142, it simply wont work no matter what you do to the spacers.

*Edit*
Oh yeah, you said Deemax. So the rear hub is probably 150 or 157 and the front 20x110 Boost or 20x110 non-boost.

The rear should fit on most DH bikes bought in the last decade. You might have to machine 3.5mm off of each end cap if the hub is currently 157 and you have a 150 frame. Or you can just buy shorter spacers.

If the front hub is non-boost, it will fit any DH fork from the last decade. You will need to put a spacer between the disc rotor and the hub to run it on a boost fork. If the front hub is boost, you can't (sensibly) run it on a non-boost fork.

If the rear hub is 148 or smaller then everything gets way more complicated.


 
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