Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 13:09 Quote
chacou wrote:
seraph wrote:
chacou wrote:
Anyone know anything about E THIRTEEN TRS PLUS 12 SPEED CHAIN? $44 at jensonusa, says it only works with sram eagle which is what I need. Ordered it cause I need a chain, but I also have my reservations about E13 products.
BTW, the ohilns hardware works just fine. Although now I want to get the Fox shock hardware bearings, 8x30 is in stock, but I need 8x35, I'm thinking it'll work with some washers/spacers.

It looks like it's a YBN chain, made for E.13 not by E.13 so that should ease your conscience I guess. I've had great luck with E.13 stuff though.

Thanks. Haha, yeah, I know they don't actually manufacture most of their stuff. I have the MoPo tires that I like but they're made for E13 by Vee, I've got their carbon rims too. Their mechanical dropper post and aluminum rims are not so good.

I've had many sets of their alloy rims, alloy cranks, carbon cranks, carbon rims, hubs, cassettes, and guides over the years. No issues to note.

Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 13:39 Quote
e13’s customer service is top notch too. I’ve had a variety of their products and just had issue with their dropper lever, which they resolved promptly.

Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 19:18 Quote
I dented a rim and pinched a tire (both e 13) that shouldn't have done anything. They did send a replacement rim and tire....

I got the rim to seal up, ran it for a few weeks. Landed a small 2-3ft jump on some smooth flat rocks. Rim wall ripped away from the bed. Never bothered to get the replacement rim laced up.

Told e13 cs about it. Was told to screw off and that I shouldn't have run a damaged rim.

Meanwhile my dt rims have taken harder hits, without denting, after having had larger dents, not failed in any such way.

I wouldn't touch their aluminum rims.

Posted: Sep 17, 2021 at 20:16 Quote
A couple buddies of mine ran e13 rims and they were the most dented rims they have ever owned. Switched brands and riding same trails and tires with significantly less dents.

This was a couple of years ago so maybe things have improved.

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 9:54 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
Kidklayko wrote:
Got a 36 RC2 is this normal, only on one side

this is the other side


hard to say from just the amount of junk on the wiper seals. You should perform a lower leg service ASAP and while you have the lowers off, pull the damper cartridge out and inspect.
I'm asking is the extra liquid on the right seal normal

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 10:00 Quote
Kidklayko wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
Kidklayko wrote:
Got a 36 RC2 is this normal, only on one side

this is the other side


hard to say from just the amount of junk on the wiper seals. You should perform a lower leg service ASAP and while you have the lowers off, pull the damper cartridge out and inspect.
I'm asking is the extra liquid on the right seal normal

No. probably not a big deal but worth pulling the lowers off and checking your seals, damper, and cleaning up.

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 10:30 Quote
Kidklayko wrote:
I'm asking is the extra liquid on the right seal normal

Kind of depends on recent events... Did it just suddenly start gushing that much oil after 2 runs, but it was dry before? Were they recently serviced and they threw a ton of slickoleum on the seals? You'll only know for sure if you do a quick lowers clean and light relube.

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 13:59 Quote
bishopsmike wrote:
Kidklayko wrote:
I'm asking is the extra liquid on the right seal normal

Kind of depends on recent events... Did it just suddenly start gushing that much oil after 2 runs, but it was dry before? Were they recently serviced and they threw a ton of slickoleum on the seals? You'll only know for sure if you do a quick lowers clean and light relube.

It's been doing this for the last two weeks or so, service history is unknown, bought it used, but I've had it for about a year and 1/2 I think it just might be worth a full service just cause it's due

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 17:41 Quote
A have a front brake that has slowly developed a brutal howl. 2021 SLX 4 piston. The stock rotor after two months slowly started to develop a howl that would come up in long descents. Over time it got worse so I replaced the pads and rotor. Still just as bad. Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and bled the brake. Still happening. My local shop aligned everything for me today and it’s better but still really loud. The pistons seem to be coming out all evenly.

Any ideas what else it could be?

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 19:58 Quote
whitebirdfeathers wrote:
A have a front brake that has slowly developed a brutal howl. 2021 SLX 4 piston. The stock rotor after two months slowly started to develop a howl that would come up in long descents. Over time it got worse so I replaced the pads and rotor. Still just as bad. Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and bled the brake. Still happening. My local shop aligned everything for me today and it’s better but still really loud. The pistons seem to be coming out all evenly.

Any ideas what else it could be?

Did you replace the pads and rotors at the same time? What was your bed-in process?

I would try sanding the pads and rotor with some emery cloth and wiping clean with alcohol or brake cleaner. I know some people use a torch to burn contaminates off pads but I've generally found if the pads are that bad you're better off replacing them. Would give MTX pads a go next time around as I've found them to be quiet and powerful

I have noticed recently that many of the bikes coming through the shop with noisy brakes have SLX rotors, and I even had a set of newer SLX rotors on my own bike I couldn't make quiet. Weird because I used to use SLX rotors all the time without issue, so I compared one of my newer sets to an older set. The new set was made in Malaysia and has a shinier finish with a more rounded edge, while the new old stock set has a flatter finish and was made in Japan like XTR/XT. Seems like Shimano is cutting corners and outsourcing to try and keep up with demand

Posted: Sep 18, 2021 at 20:48 Quote
^i would also recommend the MTX pads, i had issues with howling XT 4 pistons and only got it to stop with a set of the MTX. although i should mention, i went with the gold ceramic set and had to size down on the rotor because of how powerful they were in comparison to the sintered pads i used before.

Also that same XT caliper snapped at the bolt loop a few weeks later (used a torque wrench) so agreed on the quality going down. kind of a bummer but oh well

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 5:16 Quote
Brake bleed question…

I have TRP Quadiem, the bite itself is fine (not spongy) but the free stroke before the pads engage is way too far. I have to adjust the levers way out to the point I can barely reach them to ensure they bite before reaching the bar.

My question is can I just remove the wheel and carefully pump the brake lever to push the pads out to fix this? Or do I need to connect the fluid cup to the lever and pump the lever with that attached to pull more fluid into the system? Any advice would be appreciated- thanks!

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 5:26 Quote
Coil question:
I got a bike that came with an MRP hazard shock with a Elka 500 lb coil.

I bought a MRP enduro SL spring of the same weight. MRP says each spring rate only comes in one size. All 500 lb springs are the same length.

Enduro SL spring arrived last night. It’s much shorter in length compared to the stock coil. Maybe 2 inches. Will I just rely on moving that preload collar wayyy down to compensate for the overall shorter spring?

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 9:02 Quote
lyzyrdskydr wrote:
whitebirdfeathers wrote:
A have a front brake that has slowly developed a brutal howl. 2021 SLX 4 piston. The stock rotor after two months slowly started to develop a howl that would come up in long descents. Over time it got worse so I replaced the pads and rotor. Still just as bad. Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and bled the brake. Still happening. My local shop aligned everything for me today and it’s better but still really loud. The pistons seem to be coming out all evenly.

Any ideas what else it could be?

Did you replace the pads and rotors at the same time? What was your bed-in process?

I would try sanding the pads and rotor with some emery cloth and wiping clean with alcohol or brake cleaner. I know some people use a torch to burn contaminates off pads but I've generally found if the pads are that bad you're better off replacing them. Would give MTX pads a go next time around as I've found them to be quiet and powerful

I have noticed recently that many of the bikes coming through the shop with noisy brakes have SLX rotors, and I even had a set of newer SLX rotors on my own bike I couldn't make quiet. Weird because I used to use SLX rotors all the time without issue, so I compared one of my newer sets to an older set. The new set was made in Malaysia and has a shinier finish with a more rounded edge, while the new old stock set has a flatter finish and was made in Japan like XTR/XT. Seems like Shimano is cutting corners and outsourcing to try and keep up with demand

I’ve ordered some MTX pads. Thanks for the suggestions.

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 10:18 Quote
BryanBobo wrote:
Brake bleed question…

I have TRP Quadiem, the bite itself is fine (not spongy) but the free stroke before the pads engage is way too far. I have to adjust the levers way out to the point I can barely reach them to ensure they bite before reaching the bar.

My question is can I just remove the wheel and carefully pump the brake lever to push the pads out to fix this? Or do I need to connect the fluid cup to the lever and pump the lever with that attached to pull more fluid into the system? Any advice would be appreciated- thanks!


More fluid.


 
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