Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 13:36 Quote
Duderz7 wrote:
Measure thrice cut once, better yet, use a lathe ot take to a machine shop. If they are not square you're hosed. And definitely take into account brake mount and how close spoke flangecomes to fork. You may have ro redish wheel after.

Thanks for the reply mate!

Of course I would use a lathe, I am a machinist tup (or at least I graduated a year or two ago from a machining program...)

Great point! thank you.

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 13:38 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
rosemarywheel wrote:
Hey folks, I want to fit my Deemax wheelset on an older bike. I think I can just buy an adaptor for the axle diameter but not the length. Either I can make replacement spacers for the ends to bring the axle length in a few millimeters (this would require some time though...) or I could just buzz off a few mm's from the sides of the caps.

Would this work? would I need to only buzz some off of one side? the brake side I think would result in the rotor being in a different spot in relation to the caliper...

What size are the hubs currently, and what (dropout/axle) size are the frame/fork you want to put them in?
What these numbers are, and therefor which of the many many so called "standards" they comply with, determines how much you would need to trim off the spacers in total, and how much of this removed material needs to come from each end.

Eg if the hub is 142 and the frame is 135, you just need to trim 3.5mm from each end. However if the hub is 148 and the frame is 142, it simply wont work no matter what you do to the spacers.

*Edit*
Oh yeah, you said Deemax. So the rear hub is probably 150 or 157 and the front 20x110 Boost or 20x110 non-boost.

The rear should fit on most DH bikes bought in the last decade. You might have to machine 3.5mm off of each end cap if the hub is currently 157 and you have a 150 frame. Or you can just buy shorter spacers.

If the front hub is non-boost, it will fit any DH fork from the last decade. You will need to put a spacer between the disc rotor and the hub to run it on a boost fork. If the front hub is boost, you can't (sensibly) run it on a non-boost fork.

If the rear hub is 148 or smaller then everything gets way more complicated.

It is a 12x150 Sir! I want to put them on a 10x135mm hardtail frame...

Posted: Sep 19, 2021 at 21:52 Quote
BryanBobo wrote:
Brake bleed question…

I have TRP Quadiem, the bite itself is fine (not spongy) but the free stroke before the pads engage is way too far. I have to adjust the levers way out to the point I can barely reach them to ensure they bite before reaching the bar.

My question is can I just remove the wheel and carefully pump the brake lever to push the pads out to fix this? Or do I need to connect the fluid cup to the lever and pump the lever with that attached to pull more fluid into the system? Any advice would be appreciated- thanks!
i noticed that my quadiems also develop an increased lever pull with brake pads at half life. Install new brake pads and see if that fixes the problem.
Happy trails.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 3:33 Quote
I've gone and got some domain 302s for cheap in overall great condition but I'm wondering if I can get a 318/RC damper can I just fit it in and it work? Of courseaking sure oils all good.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 7:28 Quote
Hey guys, I have a Rockshox Boxxer fork and I was wondering if the rubber bump stops can be removed if the frame already has the stops built into it. The stops that are on the fork are below the lower crown so I was wondering if I ought to just remove them. This is my first DH bike so I am pretty inexperience with the whole "dual" crown thing. Thanks!

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 8:06 Quote
First they shouldn't be below the lower crown and second no issues with removing them if the frame has built in bump stops. Just make sure they line up correctly with your fork.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 8:10 Quote
Anyone know of the shortest insertion dropper post. My wife's bike currently has a reverb 125 and the post is starting to sag. The problem is when we put it on her bike it was the only one that fit her/bike due to seat tube bend on her sight. Now it's starting to sag and rather than have it rebuilt again just wondering if there are any new options.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 8:22 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Anyone know of the shortest insertion dropper post. My wife's bike currently has a reverb 125 and the post is starting to sag. The problem is when we put it on her bike it was the only one that fit her/bike due to seat tube bend on her sight. Now it's starting to sag and rather than have it rebuilt again just wondering if there are any new options.

Probably OneUp v2 150mm. You can find measurements on the OneUp website, so you can compare with your current dropper post. And it can be shimmed down in travel by 10 or 20mm.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 9:36 Quote
Tubeless newbie here: had an on trail puncture, didn't have bacon strips so put in a tube. Now at home with more time to do the best repair job possible. Should I fix the puncture on my tire with a bacon strip or patch? What tends to be the most effective when you have the time to properly clean and prepare the tire for patching?

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 9:51 Quote
coast2coast-4 wrote:
Tubeless newbie here: had an on trail puncture, didn't have bacon strips so put in a tube. Now at home with more time to do the best repair job possible. Should I fix the puncture on my tire with a bacon strip or patch? What tends to be the most effective when you have the time to properly clean and prepare the tire for patching?

It all depends on the size of the puncture. Small punctures you can get away with just sealant. If it tends to leak slowly then you can patch the inside of the tire with something marketed to that function or maybe get away with using Gorilla tape inside the tire. Bigger punctures you'll have to fix with a bacon strip style puncture repair kit. I've ridden on a bacon strip repair for the life of a tire. Patching the inside of the tire would be a more permanent fix, but may be unnecessary.

How you ride may also be a factor: If you're going on rides that take you far from roads or any easy way home I'd go for the most solid repair option. If you're staying local and know you're within easy reach of the car or home then I'd use the cheapest repair.

Good luck.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 10:05 Quote
If the bacon strip holds use that.

I have patched the inside of my tire a few times using cut moto/car patches. The tricky part is getting them clean enough to get the patch to hold.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 12:10 Quote
Ok - Thanks for the feedback. I will try the bacon strip first. It seemed like more of an emergency measure so I wasn't confident on its long term use. BTW sealant did not do the trick on this one. Was leaking/weeping sealant continually through puncture.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 12:19 Quote
coast2coast-4 wrote:
Ok - Thanks for the feedback. I will try the bacon strip first. It seemed like more of an emergency measure so I wasn't confident on its long term use. BTW sealant did not do the trick on this one. Was leaking/weeping sealant continually through puncture.

I sealed a large slice in a tire with a piece of t-shirt. It lasted the life of the tire with no issues.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 14:09 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Anyone know of the shortest insertion dropper post. My wife's bike currently has a reverb 125 and the post is starting to sag. The problem is when we put it on her bike it was the only one that fit her/bike due to seat tube bend on her sight. Now it's starting to sag and rather than have it rebuilt again just wondering if there are any new options.

+1 for OneUp, they tend to have the best insertion depths. I think the new axxs reverbs also have short insertion depth as well due to the lack of an actuator, but it's obviously a lot pricier.

Posted: Sep 20, 2021 at 14:33 Quote
Hi, I'm wondering if Shimano makes freehub bodies.
I am thinking about the m8120 wheelset but it has a micro spline driver, and I am thinking of running an 11-speed Shimano drivetrain. Does anyone know if there is a part that I can swap out to make it work?
Thanks.


 
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