Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
flag Client9
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 6:35 Quote
riish wrote:
nojzilla wrote:
riish wrote:
Wouldn't the talcum powder just mix with the sealant?
Could be dried sealant causing the noise.

my bad, I thought Tannus used iner tubes?

The original model does, you’re right!
They dropped a tubeless version last year though.

Yeah, I'm talking about the tubeless version.
Talcum powder would definitely compromise the sealant :-)
flag seraph
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 8:59 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
Squorx is an e5 as others already said, you can get it at anny decent hardware store

My only issue with the E5 as a Squorx tool is the clearance on some rims. Especially deeper rims with offset, you might need to do some grinding to make even a deep E5 socket fit the spoke hole.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 11:56 Quote
Client9 wrote:
My Tannus tubeless insert is making a squeaking noise against the inside of my rear tire.
(Minion DHR2 2.4" @ 22 psi)

Sounds like two balloons rubbing together.
Kind of ruins the Zen.

Anyone else have this issue? Just add more sealant as lube?

What tyre pressures are you running? Ive had cushcore on a few bikes for years now and not really noticed any squeaking etc. I can imagine if you are running higher pressures (anything over mid 20's ish) then the insert may be squeezed quite hard by the tyre carcass which might cause the noise. Thats a total guess though to be fair.

*edit*
Actually I realise thats not true. Sometimes if I haven't ridden a bike in a couple of weeks, when I first get on it the inserts do make a few creaks as the tyres get squashed around for the first time in a while. These go away after a couple of wheel revolutions though.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 12:08 Quote
pocketsandcollector wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
pocketsandcollector wrote:
Hi! I just caught myself a cannondale Chase 2 off Craigslist. What I didn't immediately notice were two very small and shallow dents right below the headtube. I'd try to take pics, but the paint is matte black.

The smaller of the two is stupid small, like 5mm wide, dimple shaped. It's like maybe 7mm away from the headtube weld. The second is probably 10mm lower, and a little deeper and longer, like 15mm long. But again, both of these are like, probably barely over a mill deep.

I've just always heard dents near headtube = death, and i intend to huck some crap with this bike. There's not a scratch on the paint anywhere near the dents. Chill? Trash it? Thanks.

Pics might clear up a recommendation but IMO, there is no way to know for sure. Send at your own risk.

Prepare to laugh.
http://imgur.com/a/f0yNqYb

I was worried they were half filled in and someone repainted the frame, but Google tells me the older model of this frame came matte black

It's always dangerous telling someone online it's fine to ride a damaged bike, based on nothing more than a couple of pictures. But based on the couple of pictures youve posted I'd say it's probably fine to ride the bike. lol
Just keep an eye out for cracks where the headtube joins the top and downtubes. Those dents aren't likely to cause any more cracking than ordinary really, but they are evidence that the bike has had a few crashes in its life, and those do eventually cause cracks.
flag leftypumpkin
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 17:58 Quote
pocketsandcollector wrote:
leftypumpkin wrote:
pocketsandcollector wrote:
I don't want to keep undermining my own question but the welds on this headtube are so thick I can't possibly imagine this failing catastrophically. Right? (f*ck what did I buy)

I don't know, I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the reason Cannondale welds look so big and smooth was because they filled them with bondo before painting.
You're joking, right? o_o

Like I said, it's just something I heard. My 2000 Jekyl failed at the seat/top tube joint and the chipping and colour would support this rumour, but unless you stripped a Cannondale frame to check, you still wouldn't know. I just popped out to the garage (I bought a mid-2000's Jekyl for my kid to ride) and those welds look way too smooth, even if there was a second pass.

That said, I'm still riding a 12 year old Cannondale, so when it cracks I'll definitely do some more investigation (with the Jekyl, I just got a $500 credit to a new Cannondale, I'll definitely be moving away from Cannondale for my next bike so probably not worth saving it for warranty).
flag churehcuz
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 20:12 Quote
I have a argyle rct air from 2015 with a bent csu, I have a spare csu off a Reba or something similar from around the same time period. Could I replace the argyle csu with the Rebas?
flag Sethsg
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 10:13 Quote
Any tips, I am switching some cheap Shimano brakes on my Commencal Meta AM 2021 and it is internally routed I haven't pulled removed the rear brake yet is there any way I can pull it through using the old hose? instead of trying to fish it through?
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 10:34 Quote
Sethsg wrote:
Any tips, I am switching some cheap Shimano brakes on my Commencal Meta AM 2021 and it is internally routed I haven't pulled removed the rear brake yet is there any way I can pull it through using the old hose? instead of trying to fish it through?

tape a string/fishing line to the end of the brake line before you pull it out. Then you tape your new line to the string and pull it back through.
flag chize
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 10:38 Quote
Sethsg wrote:
Any tips, I am switching some cheap Shimano brakes on my Commencal Meta AM 2021 and it is internally routed I haven't pulled removed the rear brake yet is there any way I can pull it through using the old hose? instead of trying to fish it through?
Tape the end of the new brake line to the end of the old brake line with electrical tape, tape a bit of the way up the brake lines so it doesn't slip, push the new brake line into the frame while GENTLY guiding the old line out, if you pull the old line too hard you'll pull the tape connection off. Commencial uses foam tubes around the cables in the downtube so you may have to work the line a bit to push it through those.
flag Sethsg
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 10:50 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
Sethsg wrote:
Any tips, I am switching some cheap Shimano brakes on my Commencal Meta AM 2021 and it is internally routed I haven't pulled removed the rear brake yet is there any way I can pull it through using the old hose? instead of trying to fish it through?

tape a string/fishing line to the end of the brake line before you pull it out. Then you tape your new line to the string and pull it back through.

I already thought of this but I don't want to unscrew the line off the calliper because I will need to do a full bleed and I will cutting the leaver end to length anyways.

I suppose I could tape on a string or cable to the old hose pull it out then attach it to the new hose and pull the string back through with the new hose.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 12:02 Quote
leftypumpkin wrote:
pocketsandcollector wrote:
leftypumpkin wrote:


I don't know, I seem to remember hearing somewhere that the reason Cannondale welds look so big and smooth was because they filled them with bondo before painting.
You're joking, right? o_o

Like I said, it's just something I heard. My 2000 Jekyl failed at the seat/top tube joint and the chipping and colour would support this rumour, but unless you stripped a Cannondale frame to check, you still wouldn't know. I just popped out to the garage (I bought a mid-2000's Jekyl for my kid to ride) and those welds look way too smooth, even if there was a second pass.

That said, I'm still riding a 12 year old Cannondale, so when it cracks I'll definitely do some more investigation (with the Jekyl, I just got a $500 credit to a new Cannondale, I'll definitely be moving away from Cannondale for my next bike so probably not worth saving it for warranty).

Cannondale do not fill their welds wth Bondo. They are double pass welds and they are really really smooth. It's all metal though. I know a few people with Cannondales with all the paint stripped off.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 12:03 Quote
Sethsg wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:
Sethsg wrote:
Any tips, I am switching some cheap Shimano brakes on my Commencal Meta AM 2021 and it is internally routed I haven't pulled removed the rear brake yet is there any way I can pull it through using the old hose? instead of trying to fish it through?

tape a string/fishing line to the end of the brake line before you pull it out. Then you tape your new line to the string and pull it back through.

I already thought of this but I don't want to unscrew the line off the calliper because I will need to do a full bleed and I will cutting the leaver end to length anyways.

I suppose I could tape on a string or cable to the old hose pull it out then attach it to the new hose and pull the string back through with the new hose.

What brand is the new brake? If it is also Shimano (or Magura) just leave the old hose in the frame, and bolt the new lever and caliper to each end.
flag ballunix
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 13:17 Quote
I have the chance to pick up a lightly used 12 speed AXS shifter/derailleur/cassette/chain set from a guy, and i'm interested to see what it's all about, but try as i might i haven't been able to find out about chainrings (everyone's talking about road/gravel where everything's about flat-top chains).

are the only compatible 12-speed AXS chainrings SRAM ones? do they need to be mated to SRAM's cranks and BBs?
flag melanthius
O+
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 13:43 Quote
ballunix wrote:
I have the chance to pick up a lightly used 12 speed AXS shifter/derailleur/cassette/chain set from a guy, and i'm interested to see what it's all about, but try as i might i haven't been able to find out about chainrings (everyone's talking about road/gravel where everything's about flat-top chains).

are the only compatible 12-speed AXS chainrings SRAM ones? do they need to be mated to SRAM's cranks and BBs?

AXS is just wireless movement of the derailleur, otherwise the system is identical to non-AXS SRAM 12-speed parts. Use any chainring that works with a SRAM 12-speed chain. That's almost any narrow-wide that's not the 12-speed Shimano ones that use a trapezoidal tooth profile. I currently have a SRAM 12-speed drivetrain being driven by a Shimano 11-speed SLX chainring. Works great.
flag Sethsg
Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 13:57 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Sethsg wrote:
mtbman1980 wrote:


tape a string/fishing line to the end of the brake line before you pull it out. Then you tape your new line to the string and pull it back through.

I already thought of this but I don't want to unscrew the line off the calliper because I will need to do a full bleed and I will cutting the leaver end to length anyways.

I suppose I could tape on a string or cable to the old hose pull it out then attach it to the new hose and pull the string back through with the new hose.

What brand is the new brake? If it is also Shimano (or Magura) just leave the old hose in the frame, and bolt the new lever and caliper to each end.
I'm replacing the old Shimano brakeset with Magura one's so I need to change the hoses.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.035430
Mobile Version of Website