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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 14:50 Quote
ibishreddin wrote:
My fox 34 steerer tube is too short. Does anyone know a solution to get the bars raised?

Not sure how good of a solution it is, but here's a steerer tube extender I found for $35

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_K8ESY74BCKVVTKR2JAN7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 14:51 Quote
Depends whether you need a tapered, or straight 1⅛ or 1½ tube. Seems there are a lot of options for 1⅛ straight tubes

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 14:51 Quote
ibishreddin wrote:
My fox 34 steerer tube is too short. Does anyone know a solution to get the bars raised?

they make an adapter that will lengthen the steerer tube.. i'd recommend not using it though just because it's not really a fix rather than a temporary solution. If it was me, I'd sell the fork and get one with a longer tube.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 14:54 Quote
ibishreddin wrote:
My fox 34 steerer tube is too short. Does anyone know a solution to get the bars raised?
depending on the model year you could order a new CSU assembly, CSU-(crown steerer unit)

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 15:44 Quote
ibishreddin wrote:
My fox 34 steerer tube is too short. Does anyone know a solution to get the bars raised?
If you're just looking to raise bars look into some highrise bars, most often seen on some dirt jumpers.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 15:46 Quote
How much are you trying to raise things? They make bars with up to 3 inches of rise in them. They also have 0mm stems. I’ve seen em floating around the forum over the years but can’t think of the name off the top of my head.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 15:57 Quote
Get a riser bar. Those steerer tube extenders are not safe for mountain bikes.

Or just get a new csu

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 16:19 Quote
Thank you for the help. On that note, what are the highest rise 35mm clamp bars?

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 16:40 Quote
dartmoor makes a 50mm rise 35 clamp bar iirc.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 16:41 Quote
https://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/handlebars/lightning-hi

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 17:34 Quote
ibishreddin wrote:
Thank you for the help. On that note, what are the highest rise 35mm clamp bars?

Tallest I know is the Deity 80mm rise one. You need to scroll down to see those variants.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 20:31 Quote
I just bought the deity 50mm rise 35mm clamp bar, it is pretty sick.

Posted: Dec 6, 2021 at 22:06 Quote
melanthius wrote:
FirstFox wrote:
Looking for help with getting a tire off a 40mm wide carbon rim that has cush core installed. its a maxxis minon tire . i have the tire unseated from the bead but the cush core still hold the tire so tight to the i cant get a tire lever under the tire to even get close to being able to have the lever be able to lift the tire bead off the rim. i dont want to damage the carbon rim but im almost at the point of thinking it would be easier to cut the tire off .

You need to get the bead on one side to drop into the groove in the center of the rim before you go in with a tire lever. Try laying the wheel on a 5-galling bucket and pushing the tire down to get the insert and bead to move towards the center. Might need a friend to have a second pair of hands. Once you get the bead off the bead seat go in with a lever. Aim for the gap between the bead and the center groove of the rim and when you pull on the lever you should be able to pull the bead on the opposite side down into the groove. While holding lever tension, push the tire down to get the bead to seat into the groove over enough of the rim circumference that you can get the bead off the rim at the lever.

Agree with the general principle of moving the bead down to the centre of the rim (under the cc). I do this by moving the excess tire to one side, prying the cush core back and then sliding the tire down under the CC. It's important to move the free tire (the part that contacts the ground) over to one side to make a little excess that allows you to shove it down under the cc. You then continue this process all the way around and then use a tire leaver on a part across from where the tire is slid under the cc best.

Posted: Dec 7, 2021 at 13:41 Quote
I'm planning to build up a 29er soon and am debating between 30mm and 35mm rims (specifically RaceFace Turbine R wheels). I will be using Vittoria 2.6" tires front and back (Mazza front, Martello rear) for the most part where the 35mm would probably be better, but may eventually downsize to a Maxxis Minion 2.5" DHF and 2.4" DHR2 combo where the 30mm would probably be better. My current bike uses 27.5" wheels with 2.6" Vittoria Martellos front and back on 30mm RaceFace Turbine R wheels and I have no problems with it, but wondering if it would be advantageous to get 35mm rims seeing as I'll be buying new wheels anyways

Posted: Dec 7, 2021 at 14:49 Quote
Blackmetalgoat wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Blackmetalgoat wrote:

The rc4 is 222x70mm and the van r is 267x89mm

This is unlikely to work. If the shaft diameter on both shocks happens to be the same (it may or may not be depending on the age of each shock) then it's possible you could build something functional out of them, but I would suggest it would take an expert at shock modding to even have a chance at making it work well.

To be fair, a Van R that has been shim tuned well for your weight/bike/riding etc isn't actually a bad shock. The RC4 is more tuneable but isn't inherantly "better"

If having the VanR tuned isn't an option, I would say your best bet would be to sell both shocks and put the money towards a good shock in the correct size.

If you are willing to put hours of work into it, you might be able to make something useable using parts from your 2 shocks, but getting it to run better than a stock VanR with a good tune in it will be difficult. And depending on the parts you have, it may never work at all.
Thanks , im just gonna keep my van r ...

Might be easier than I thought. Do you know the definite year of each shock? Or have the ID codes? If so you can look up the shock diagrams on foxs website.

These are the diagrams for the 2014 versions of your shocks. Most of the parts seem to be pretty interchangeable, although the piston diameters are different which means you will have to use the piston from the van r and swap the shim stacks over from the rc4 piston to match the rc4 valving in the head of the shock. There are probably other small differences you will have to work around too.

https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=58
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=63


 
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