Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 16:52 Quote
Brandonzamp wrote:
LeithB wrote:
Hi,
I have a problem with my Hayes front brake that it cannot be centered on the rotor; the inboard pad always rubs. I have spaced the rotor out using 3mm of spacer and it now works but I am aware this is a sketchy solution. Both Dt swiss Fr 1950 wheel and boxxer fork are 110 x 20mm boost.

Any Ideas?

I had a similar problem when trying to mount a newer style Deore caliper on my 2001 Monster T's. No matter how I adjusted it, it would be constantly rubbing.

Calipers were post mount, fork used IS mount. After getting the correct adapter for my IS to Post mount caliper for 203mm rotors, I added washers between the IS mount on the fork and the adapter. Also found I needed longer bolts to mount my adapter on, fixed the issue perfect for me. Sure some will say it's a ghetto fix, but I don't see a problem with it at all.

I think you've gotten caught up in the short but badly named tangle of 20mm axle standards. 20mm boost and 20mm non-boost BOTH have a 110mm over-locknut dimension. The only difference is that the rotor mount is 5mm closer to the dropout on the boost version.

So, this means that forks which have 20mm axles differ ONLY by the position of the caliper mount between the boost and non-boost versions. It's completely possible to mount a 20mm non-boost hub in a 20mm boost fork, it's just impossible to get the rotor to line up with the caliper without spacing out one or the other.

@LiethB, it sounds like you have a boost fork and a non-boost hub. The FR 1950 is available in both, looks like you got the wrong one. I recommend you space out the rotor with something like this from MRP.


This brings us the @Brandonzamp's experience. Marzocchi way back in the day actually made forks that match the current 20mm boost dimensions! They didn't document it very well, but they included a hub with the correct (wider) rotor mount position with each aftermarket fork. They sold it as an integrated system rather than as a new standard. I had a 2003 Z1 FR QR20 that was built like that and I needed to use longer bolts with washers to space out the post-mount adaptor to use a normal 20mm non-boost hub, just like Brandonzamp is doing with is Monster T. Can't do that with a post-mount fork, which is why I recommended you space out the rotor. Funny enough, what goes around comes around and 20mm boost hubs actually work in those old forks just fine. Used to be that if you didn't want to use spacers you had to hunt down one of those Marzocchi hubs.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 20:19 Quote
rahrider wrote:
henry9 wrote:
Hey, I recently bought a heavier spring for my coil shock, but I ended up being unable to install it. This was because the new coil I was installing was actually larger than my previous one-even though they are the same size: 2.80.

Strange, same size, same brand, just a different stiffness.
Ive attached some photos for some more context.

Does anybody have any suggestion tips/or am I just being oblivious to something.
Thanks in advance.


Put 4 -6 zap straps around the coil. Compress the coil and sequentially tighten the zap straps until the coil is short enough to fit on your bike. Install the spring then cut the zap straps. You will probably have to work your way around the zap straps 5-10 times depending on how heavy you are. If you have a bigger friend, maybe get them to compress the coil whole you tighten the straps.

To take it off, sit on your bike, tighten the zap straps while the coil is compressed then get off your bike and remove the shock/coil.

Super, thanks for the help. Smile
Have a good one.

Posted: Dec 10, 2021 at 22:27 Quote
Tannex wrote:
Hi guys,

What oil do you use as an alternative for the Fox 10 wt Red Oil?
For a FOX DHX2 Shock..

Motorex 10wt seems to have similar viscosity, what else?

Thanks in advance

I always use Motorex when servicing Fox stuff. 10wt for normal use, 2.5-5wt for winter riding.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 0:26 Quote
Hi guys,

I have Sram Force22 hydraulic shifters, and am looking to run an 11-32 or larger cassette; based off of compatibility charts: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/gen-0000000004397-rev-a-compatibility-map-my14-road-components.pdf I will need a Red/Force22 RD with a medium cage, but can I use any of the Force 1 RDs? being that it is geared towards gravel 1x systems and has a clutch it seems like the way to go, but I can't find anything speaking to the compatibility of the older road-specific shifters.

Thanks

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 2:53 Quote
All sram 10 and 11 speed Road shifters have the same pull ratio, as do mtb 10 speed or lower. You can run them with any 10 or 11 speed road derailleur or even mtb 10 SPD. The clutched derailleurs don't play nice with 2x systems though, or at least they didn't.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 3:32 Quote
@melanthius Thanks very much.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 6:51 Quote
Oh true, I didn't even think of the fact that @Leithb's fork would definitely be post mount...

Guess I've been rocking the Monsters for so long now I kinda forgot about post mount.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 6:57 Quote
I’m struggling to unthread an e13 thread together bottom bracket (linked below). Any tips? I’m worried about using a cheater bar and breaking something. The Park Tool BBT-9 already has a pretty big leverage arm and putting most of my 200lbs of body weight behind it doesn’t seem to even budge it.

(1) Any general tips for tough to remove BB?
(2) Can anyone just triple confirm for me that the drive side removal direction for this BB is counterclockwise?

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/press-fit-bottom-brackets

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 7:55 Quote
If you put the wheels back on the bike it makes it a hell of alot easier to apply torque to the bb as you can push against the ground.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 8:48 Quote
BryanBobo wrote:
I’m struggling to unthread an e13 thread together bottom bracket (linked below). Any tips? I’m worried about using a cheater bar and breaking something. The Park Tool BBT-9 already has a pretty big leverage arm and putting most of my 200lbs of body weight behind it doesn’t seem to even budge it.

(1) Any general tips for tough to remove BB?
(2) Can anyone just triple confirm for me that the drive side removal direction for this BB is counterclockwise?

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/press-fit-bottom-brackets

I've heard that you can get better leverage by clamping the tool into a vise and turning the bike frame instead (I've used the same method to undo a nasty free hub by putting the allen wrench in the vise and using the whole wheel as my lever).

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 8:56 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
arphia wrote:
adm750 wrote:


will do....and I'm measuring exposed shock rod length (including the portion covered by the rubber bumper) to basically get that second half of the shock size number correct ? That's what gewgel is telling me anyways...

ie...200mm x (exposed shock rod length)mm = shock size I need to look for

It's not the exposed rod length you need, it's the stoke length. Compress the shock all the way and measure it again, subtract that from the full measurement and the diff is the stroke.

On a coil shock that will be the exposed rod length.

thank you btw...!

I always appreciate everyone's input and you guys taking the time to help me out. you guys rock... Salute

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 9:16 Quote
leftypumpkin wrote:
BryanBobo wrote:
I’m struggling to unthread an e13 thread together bottom bracket (linked below). Any tips? I’m worried about using a cheater bar and breaking something. The Park Tool BBT-9 already has a pretty big leverage arm and putting most of my 200lbs of body weight behind it doesn’t seem to even budge it.

(1) Any general tips for tough to remove BB?
(2) Can anyone just triple confirm for me that the drive side removal direction for this BB is counterclockwise?

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/press-fit-bottom-brackets

I've heard that you can get better leverage by clamping the tool into a vise and turning the bike frame instead (I've used the same method to undo a nasty free hub by putting the allen wrench in the vise and using the whole wheel as my lever).

Thanks - yeah I can definitely find ways to apply more torque. Mostly worried about causing some degree of damage but maybe it really just requires that much torque to remove.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 9:27 Quote
BryanBobo wrote:
leftypumpkin wrote:
BryanBobo wrote:
I’m struggling to unthread an e13 thread together bottom bracket (linked below). Any tips? I’m worried about using a cheater bar and breaking something. The Park Tool BBT-9 already has a pretty big leverage arm and putting most of my 200lbs of body weight behind it doesn’t seem to even budge it.

(1) Any general tips for tough to remove BB?
(2) Can anyone just triple confirm for me that the drive side removal direction for this BB is counterclockwise?

https://www.ethirteen.com/products/press-fit-bottom-brackets

I've heard that you can get better leverage by clamping the tool into a vise and turning the bike frame instead (I've used the same method to undo a nasty free hub by putting the allen wrench in the vise and using the whole wheel as my lever).

Thanks - yeah I can definitely find ways to apply more torque. Mostly worried about causing some degree of damage but maybe it really just requires that much torque to remove.

Don't have any experience with that particular bb. Just be sure you know which way the threads go. Some bb products are reverse thread to prevent loosening while riding. I would assume that bb is regular thread but you really never know until you know.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 12:36 Quote
Unless I missed it the link you provided is for pressfit BB's that thread together in the center and hold the pressfit portion tightly in place. If that's the case I don't think anything is reverse thread. (On a threaded bb shell, yes drive side is reverse.) On this setup you have 2 things working against you, the threads as well as the surface tension of the pressfit. Often times people will use a retaining compound (threadlock of sorts) on the pressfit portion, qhich quiets them down as well as keeps the creaks to a minimum, but also makes it more difficult to remove. Usually some heat to soften the compound and ot an impact driver to shock it loose. Be wary heat or too much heat could damage a frame. No torches, just put it near a heater for a while, then try the impact driver.

Posted: Dec 11, 2021 at 12:37 Quote
anyone on here used a 2.3mm rotor with shimano brakes?


 
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