Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jan 14, 2022 at 8:13 Quote
Yeah, that derailleur is spec’d for 34t max. 40 was probably already pushing it and 42 is just a bridge too far. It’s also worth checking the hanger alignment to fix the small cog shifting. The bigger the max cog on the cassette the more sensitive the system gets to a bent hanger.

Posted: Jan 14, 2022 at 8:45 Quote
melanthius wrote:
Yeah, that derailleur is spec’d for 34t max. 40 was probably already pushing it and 42 is just a bridge too far. It’s also worth checking the hanger alignment to fix the small cog shifting. The bigger the max cog on the cassette the more sensitive the system gets to a bent hanger.

I figured 40 was already pushing it, but it worked good, it’s also what comes stock on the 2020 Rocky Mountain Soul 10 so not sure why they did that. I also do suspect the hanger is ever so slightly bent because since new the bike had a bit harder of a time shifting into the 3rd largest and maybe 2nd largest cogs no matter how much I adjusted the derailleur although still being perfectly usable.

Posted: Jan 15, 2022 at 12:22 Quote
I have a Commencal Meta AM 29 2021 origin, to put on a 12-speed drivetrain do I need to get a new crankset? The ones on it are the stock Shimano FC-M5100-1. According to Shimano, it is designed for 10-11spd drivetrains, I'm just wondering If I need to get new ones in case these ones won't give the proper chain line?

Posted: Jan 15, 2022 at 13:04 Quote
No difference in chain line between 11 and 12, but to use Shimano 12s you’d need a rear hub with a Microspline driver and a chainring designed for the Shimano 12s chain. To use SRAM 12s you’d need a hub with an XD driver.

Why do you want to go to 12s? You’ve already got an 11-51t cassette and the 11s gear is easier to keep tuned.

Posted: Jan 15, 2022 at 14:06 Quote
melanthius wrote:
No difference in chain line between 11 and 12, but to use Shimano 12s you’d need a rear hub with a Microspline driver and a chainring designed for the Shimano 12s chain. To use SRAM 12s you’d need a hub with an XD driver.

Why do you want to go to 12s? You’ve already got an 11-51t cassette and the 11s gear is easier to keep tuned.
I wrote my question wrong, I bought a used bike that the guy had upgraded from a 10spd to a 12spd drivetrain except he never upgraded the cranks or chainring.

He somehow managed to fit a 12spd chain on a 10spd cassete, but I recently went to put on a new chain after the old one snapped and it wouldn't fit on the chainring so checked and the chainring says it is 10-11spd.

Posted: Jan 15, 2022 at 16:58 Quote
12 speed chain ring is all you should need you do not need to change the cranks

Posted: Jan 15, 2022 at 22:41 Quote
Sethsg wrote:
I have a Commencal Meta AM 29 2021 origin, to put on a 12-speed drivetrain do I need to get a new crankset? The ones on it are the stock Shimano FC-M5100-1. According to Shimano, it is designed for 10-11spd drivetrains, I'm just wondering If I need to get new ones in case these ones won't give the proper chain line?

F.y.i. Your M5100 crankset has a 52mm chainline.

A 52mm chainline (Boost frame 47+5mm offset for 12speed) is exactly what I'd aim for if I was considered going from 10/11 to 12speed.

+1 for simply replacing the chainring for a 12speed version and you're good to go.

Posted: Jan 16, 2022 at 13:17 Quote
Reaperactual wrote:
Sethsg wrote:
I have a Commencal Meta AM 29 2021 origin, to put on a 12-speed drivetrain do I need to get a new crankset? The ones on it are the stock Shimano FC-M5100-1. According to Shimano, it is designed for 10-11spd drivetrains, I'm just wondering If I need to get new ones in case these ones won't give the proper chain line?

F.y.i. Your M5100 crankset has a 52mm chainline.

A 52mm chainline (Boost frame 47+5mm offset for 12speed) is exactly what I'd aim for if I was considered going from 10/11 to 12speed.

+1 for simply replacing the chainring for a 12speed version and you're good to go.

Okay, thanks!

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 8:51 Quote
Any one had experience with FSA orbit x headset? Had to get new hs as my old pig is pretty past it l)l

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:09 Quote
I have a Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail with 165/170 front & rear travel. I've ridden it at Whistler and it's worked well except the brakes tend to burn my arms out. I have G2 brakes with 180mm rotors. My question is, can/should I just increase the rotor size (and if so, to what?) or should I upgrade the brakes too? Fancy braided lines? Am I on the right track at all trying to address my arm pump this way?

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:15 Quote
gtill9000 wrote:
I have a Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail with 165/170 front & rear travel. I've ridden it at Whistler and it's worked well except the brakes tend to burn my arms out. I have G2 brakes with 180mm rotors. My question is, can/should I just increase the rotor size (and if so, to what?) or should I upgrade the brakes too? Fancy braided lines? Am I on the right track at all trying to address my arm pump this way?

G2s work fine with bigger rotors. i use a g2 with a 220mm rotor on the front of my enduro. i would recommend the same, and a 200 in the rear. 180s on a 170mm travel bike is not the move.

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:15 Quote
Galfer rotors and pads completely transformed my Guides into an amazing brake. YOU BUY NOW!

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:26 Quote
I am on my 3rd ride with the new sram rotors and the green swissstop pads (with guide rsc). I can recommend this combination, it works well. 200 mm front, 180 rear.

(Galfer, trickstuff and swissstop pads are all far superior to the sram ones.)

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:31 Quote
Haven't met a pair of proper sintered metallic pads I don't like especially for extended downhills.

Posted: Jan 18, 2022 at 13:49 Quote
gtill9000 wrote:
I have a Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail with 165/170 front & rear travel. I've ridden it at Whistler and it's worked well except the brakes tend to burn my arms out. I have G2 brakes with 180mm rotors. My question is, can/should I just increase the rotor size (and if so, to what?) or should I upgrade the brakes too? Fancy braided lines? Am I on the right track at all trying to address my arm pump this way?
I'd move to 200/200 or even 220 up front depending on your weight, metallic pads, and possibly even full dh brakes like codes, dominion a4's, or 4 pot shimano.


 
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