Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 9:46 Quote
Right so I've stripped the headset and refitted but I noticed the sealed bearings in the bottom cup have a very small amount of play inside the cup so would you say the cup is dead from new?

Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 9:57 Quote
melanthius wrote:
You need to replace chains annoyingly often if you don't want to use the "run it into the ground and replace everything together" method. With most of Shimano that's not too big of a deal, but it's more painful with the cost of SRAM Eagle cassettes.

SRAM is crazy expensive compared shimano in my country and all the online shops I buy from which are based in the EU. I can only say that I at least dodged a bullet when I switched to my current bike (it was used), I was able to carry over my whole drivetrain (sunrace/slx/xt) and wheelset (dt swiss) instead of the sram/raceface drivetrain and mavic/formula wheelset. The wear and tear replacements and servicing is a lot more cost friendly.

Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 10:01 Quote
jimbomodder wrote:
Right so I've stripped the headset and refitted but I noticed the sealed bearings in the bottom cup have a very small amount of play inside the cup so would you say the cup is dead from new?

Not likely. In most headsets the bearings interface on the angled, conical section of both the bearing out race and the headset cup. What you are feeling is the bit of pivoting of the bearing on that interface, which gets taken out when everything gets put together, just like in an integrated headset. This reduces the number of surfaces that need precision alignment during manufacturing and therefore cost of the part.

That said, it could be defective, but without being able to test exactly what kind of "play" it is I can't make a judgement.

Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 10:53 Quote
melanthius wrote:
jimbomodder wrote:
Right so I've stripped the headset and refitted but I noticed the sealed bearings in the bottom cup have a very small amount of play inside the cup so would you say the cup is dead from new?

Not likely. In most headsets the bearings interface on the angled, conical section of both the bearing out race and the headset cup. What you are feeling is the bit of pivoting of the bearing on that interface, which gets taken out when everything gets put together, just like in an integrated headset. This reduces the number of surfaces that need precision alignment during manufacturing and therefore cost of the part.

That said, it could be defective, but without being able to test exactly what kind of "play" it is I can't make a judgement.
with the bearings fitted if I put 3 fingers inside I can wobble it side to side, bearings feel solid out of the cup but movement inside. I think I'll end up getting another FSA ordit from China again, the one I got fitted today on another bike is solid

Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 13:59 Quote
Hi guys,

I am not able to fix this tyre on the rim. It seems like the side is bent towards the outside and keeps coming of the rim when trying to inflate. Any ideeas how i could fix this?

This is a video of how the tyre comes off:
Thank you

Posted: Mar 2, 2022 at 23:45 Quote
KrampaKiller wrote:
melanthius wrote:
You need to replace chains annoyingly often if you don't want to use the "run it into the ground and replace everything together" method. With most of Shimano that's not too big of a deal, but it's more painful with the cost of SRAM Eagle cassettes.

SRAM is crazy expensive compared shimano in my country and all the online shops I buy from which are based in the EU. I can only say that I at least dodged a bullet when I switched to my current bike (it was used), I was able to carry over my whole drivetrain (sunrace/slx/xt) and wheelset (dt swiss) instead of the sram/raceface drivetrain and mavic/formula wheelset. The wear and tear replacements and servicing is a lot more cost friendly.

Definitely, Shimano is the way to go in Europe.
I’ve also noticed a massive improvement in chain life by using XTR chains and a wax-based lube.
A Deore 12s chain lasts me ~2800km before reaching 0.5%, whereas XTR goes 4-6000km before needing replacement.

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 4:13 Quote
Is it possible to get a reverse angleset, so it makes the HTA steeper?

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 5:33 Quote
Don't you just mount the angle set that way..?

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 5:47 Quote
FloridaHasMTBToo wrote:
Is it possible to get a reverse angleset, so it makes the HTA steeper?

Same headset just mounted in the opposite direction. Have done it myself with a Works Components angleset. Works (no pun intended) like a charm.

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 6:02 Quote
riish wrote:
KrampaKiller wrote:
melanthius wrote:
You need to replace chains annoyingly often if you don't want to use the "run it into the ground and replace everything together" method. With most of Shimano that's not too big of a deal, but it's more painful with the cost of SRAM Eagle cassettes.

SRAM is crazy expensive compared shimano in my country and all the online shops I buy from which are based in the EU. I can only say that I at least dodged a bullet when I switched to my current bike (it was used), I was able to carry over my whole drivetrain (sunrace/slx/xt) and wheelset (dt swiss) instead of the sram/raceface drivetrain and mavic/formula wheelset. The wear and tear replacements and servicing is a lot more cost friendly.

Definitely, Shimano is the way to go in Europe.
I’ve also noticed a massive improvement in chain life by using XTR chains and a wax-based lube.
A Deore 12s chain lasts me ~2800km before reaching 0.5%, whereas XTR goes 4-6000km before needing replacement.

Not sure if I will ever go for any XTR part, but the wax lube is worth a try.

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 6:09 Quote
I recently bought a brand new sram GX drivetrain but when I installed it it was starting in the 4th gear and I cant get it to go any higher (to the 3 hardest gears) than the 4th gear, I don’t think its a limit screw problem cause its three gears off. Could it be a defective derailleur?

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 7:16 Quote
Will the derailleur move to the small end of the cassette without the shift cable attached?

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 8:02 Quote
Reaperactual wrote:
Will the derailleur move to the small end of the cassette without the shift cable attached?
No

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 8:09 Quote
I would be surprised if the derailleur is faulty. Have you tried backing the limit screws all the way out?

Checked that your hanger is straight, make sure the cassette is mounted correctly, check that the freehub is on right. There are lots of small things that can add up to a bigger issue.

Posted: Mar 3, 2022 at 8:13 Quote
marga4433 wrote:
Hi guys,

I am not able to fix this tyre on the rim. It seems like the side is bent towards the outside and keeps coming of the rim when trying to inflate. Any ideeas how i could fix this?

This is a video of how the tyre comes off:

Thank you

It seems like there is an issue with the tire wheel fit. You could have a flatspot in your wheel or just happen to get a tire that is fits a little to loose.

I know that Schwalbe tires tend to have a slippery/plasticky finish that's adding to the issue.


 
Copyright © 2000 - 2022. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.013467
Mobile Version of Website