Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
flag gotohe11carolina
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 8:37 Quote
The clutch is not adjustable on type 3 derailleurs. I’d try adjusting all the others “free” fixes before putting more money in. Check your jockey wheels and make sure the bearings aren’t shot. Check the freehub and make sure it spins freely. Sometimes if either of those are gaumed they won’t spool chain out quickly enough and it will make the derailleur move more than it should leading to chain slap. Make sure your chain is correctly sized as well. If everything is hunky dory and your derailleur is truly shot, then look at replacements.
I’ve been equally happy with my 150$ advent and my 600$ Gx axs. If money isn’t of concern the axs is really nice. If it is the advent has been a great drivetrain. Box 11 speed had an awful shifter (trashed 3 on the first ride on each) but it can be run with Shimano 11 speed shifter. I have not run Shimano 12, but I’ve heard concerns about the reliability of the derailleur. I will probably stick with axs on future builds for myself. This is mostly because I despise internal cable routing which is getting more and more unavoidable these days.
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 8:47 Quote
I have been running deore 11sp wide range 11-51 and it's pretty bullet proof. The biggest issue is getting the cassette to stay tight on the freehub body and I had issues with one cassette that the rivets came loose on the largest 4 cogs and would rattle around.

I will probably switch to 12 speed when the freehub body is toast.
flag tannerzinck
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 8:55 Quote
I've been using a deore 12sp derailleur with eagle everything else for about a year because I was tired of eagle chain slap, it works fine and then you don't have to get a whole new drivetrain.
flag nubbs
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 9:26 Quote
Upduro wrote:
Is there any fix to the eagle derailleur clutches being loose as f*ck and the chain slapping around more than a headbanging metalhead besides just buying an XT drivetrain?

Buy another SRAM derailleur. That's what they want you to do. They don't make serviceable parts!
flag ShawMac
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 10:40 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
I have been running deore 11sp wide range 11-51 and it's pretty bullet proof. The biggest issue is getting the cassette to stay tight on the freehub body and I had issues with one cassette that the rivets came loose on the largest 4 cogs and would rattle around.

I will probably switch to 12 speed when the freehub body is toast.

So you can pay more for chains and cassettes? I specifically stayed with 11 speed to keep costs lower, parts seem to be more readily available, and I don't ride around thinking "boy I wish I had just one more click to get the same range".

Not sure why your cassette is loose on the freehub. Mine is nice and tight.
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 10:46 Quote
It's the spacing on the HG hub body and the grooves from the loose cassette gears. The one spacer at the back of the cassette is too short and I bottom out the freehub lockring. So I added a different spacer but it was tricky to get everything cinched down all the way without the lockring backing off for some reason.

I assume by the time I replace everything 12 speed and 11speed should be similar prices since I usually get at least a year out of my drivetrain usually longer. I won't have to deal with gears eating into the freehub body as much either with micro spline and I can get a lighter cassette if I choose to.
flag ShawMac
O+
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 11:15 Quote
True, I can see your point.
flag riish
Posted: Jun 21, 2022 at 22:08 Quote
Upduro wrote:
Is there any fix to the eagle derailleur clutches being loose as f*ck and the chain slapping around more than a headbanging metalhead besides just buying an XT drivetrain?

Instead of changing the entire drivetrain, just get an SLX or XT derailleur. It works with the Eagle shifter pull ratio, and then you have a serviceable clutch with minimal spend.
flag Client9
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 10:31 Quote
riish wrote:
Upduro wrote:
Is there any fix to the eagle derailleur clutches being loose as f*ck and the chain slapping around more than a headbanging metalhead besides just buying an XT drivetrain?

Instead of changing the entire drivetrain, just get an SLX or XT derailleur. It works with the Eagle shifter pull ratio, and then you have a serviceable clutch with minimal spend.

Can confirm.
I am using Eagle shifter w/ XT derailleur.
What a time to be alive.
flag jonus216
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 11:13 Quote
^^^thank you for the assist
flag Padi
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 14:06 Quote
Stupid question again (which I couldn’t find an answer for). I recently bought my first bike with internal cable routing and want to replace the Deore brake with a G2 RSC brake I’ve purchased. Is there any way how to do this without needing to bleed the brake? I don’t have bleeding equipment, so this would require a visit to a bike shop if not.

The problem is that my local bike shops have long queues and will only service bikes they’ve sold themselves. Hence, it would be great if bleeding isn’t required!
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 15:13 Quote
Padi wrote:
Stupid question again (which I couldn’t find an answer for). I recently bought my first bike with internal cable routing and want to replace the Deore brake with a G2 RSC brake I’ve purchased. Is there any way how to do this without needing to bleed the brake? I don’t have bleeding equipment, so this would require a visit to a bike shop if not.

The problem is that my local bike shops have long queues and will only service bikes they’ve sold themselves. Hence, it would be great if bleeding isn’t required!

Zip tie or tape the cable externally to the frame! Only half joking In all likely hood you'll need to shorten the hose anyway which would require a bleed... So depending on your views on fashion over function ect you have options but if you insist on running it through the frame, I think it sounds like you're buying a bleed kit.
flag kiranseligman
O+
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 16:56 Quote
Padi wrote:
Stupid question again (which I couldn’t find an answer for). I recently bought my first bike with internal cable routing and want to replace the Deore brake with a G2 RSC brake I’ve purchased. Is there any way how to do this without needing to bleed the brake? I don’t have bleeding equipment, so this would require a visit to a bike shop if not.

The problem is that my local bike shops have long queues and will only service bikes they’ve sold themselves. Hence, it would be great if bleeding isn’t required!

You will need to bleed them
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Jun 22, 2022 at 19:49 Quote
There is a very remote chance that you may be able to work it without a bleed but it may not work depending on how smoothly you can slide in the hose.

If you can leave it attached to the calliper and leaving the low and sliding up through the frame you might get away with only a small bubble which the lever should be able to cope with. Bonus points if you need to trim the line after and are extra careful not to spill.

Side note bleed kits are essential tools and are cheap on Amazon etc.
flag M0rd4c4i
Posted: Jun 23, 2022 at 8:03 Quote
@Padi, have you already got the G2 RSC brakes yet?

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.030453
Mobile Version of Website