Probably going to be a dumb question to most of you, but, I'm pretty new to mountain biking. I started out with an enduro bike, and just bought a used 2018 Specialized Demo 8. Removing the rear wheel on my enduro bike was as simple as unscrewing the thru axle with a Allen key.
I can't figure out how to get at the thru axle on my 2018 Demo 8. If anybody could advise, it'd be much appreciated.
Don't just start sending links to user manuals. Not helpful.
Just wanted to let it be known that putoline hpx 2.5 oil works wonders on shimano brakes: I was suffering horrible wandering bite-point, tried bleeding a thousand times and it did not change anything, found some other fixes, such as overfilling the brakes so as to pressurize them therefore not allowing the bite point to move outwards. Or completely limiting the piston through the servowave mechanism underneath (with zipties and such) this one greatly reduces the amount of fluid inside the brake sistem therefore you will have to bleed them to compensate for brake pads thinning.
To introduce putoline into your brakes bleed them a couple times, dont wash out the older fluid by “letting it rip” and fully opening the brakes just fully bleed them with putoline as normal, as you use them and periodically bleed them you will clense the brakes of old mineral oil in them. In my experience putoline completely fixed wandering bite-point.
Just wanna let people know this will void the warranty if you are still within the time period of it
Just wanted to let it be known that putoline hpx 2.5 oil works wonders on shimano brakes: I was suffering horrible wandering bite-point, tried bleeding a thousand times and it did not change anything, found some other fixes, such as overfilling the brakes so as to pressurize them therefore not allowing the bite point to move outwards. Or completely limiting the piston through the servowave mechanism underneath (with zipties and such) this one greatly reduces the amount of fluid inside the brake sistem therefore you will have to bleed them to compensate for brake pads thinning.
To introduce putoline into your brakes bleed them a couple times, dont wash out the older fluid by “letting it rip” and fully opening the brakes just fully bleed them with putoline as normal, as you use them and periodically bleed them you will clense the brakes of old mineral oil in them. In my experience putoline completely fixed wandering bite-point.
Also been using Putoline in my Shimano's for over a year and a half now. It didn't solve my wandering bite point issue but it works fine with no adverse effects whatsoever.
Regardless of my results it was £12 a litre (almost a lifetime's supply) compared to £8ish for 100mls of the red stuff, I recomend it too for that reason alone.
I'm looking to change the fork offset on a Marzocci Z1 Bomber. It looks like I can use a Fox 36 CSU, but require a different air spring since the stanchions on the Z1 are thicker (different alloy).
My question is, does a Grip damper from the Z1 fit into the fox 35 stanchions? It seems like it should since there is more space available, but I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere.
I assume you mean 36 there.
Yes a z1 grip damper goes into a 36 no worries.
For the air spring you can use the old one as long as the CSU you buy is a 36 rythym CSU not a normal 36 csu...
example:
820-12-118-KIT Service Set: 2019 36 Rhythm, 15x110QR, Black Ano UT, 11mm OS, Shiny Black, CSU (44 Rake)
OR
820-12-119-KIT Service Set: 2019 36 Rhythm, 15x110QR, Black Ano UT, 18mm OS, Matte Black, CSU (51 Rake)
Notice the rake is different an the finish of the crown. matte vs shiny black..
Thanks! Yes I meant a 36, but I want to try a 37mm offset, which you can't get the rhythm csu in unfortunately.
No worries.
is this one not 37mm offset?
820-12-115-KIT Service Set: 2019 36 Rhythm, 15x110QR, Black Ano UT, 4mm OS, Shiny Black, CSU
Just wanted to let it be known that putoline hpx 2.5 oil works wonders on shimano brakes: I was suffering horrible wandering bite-point, tried bleeding a thousand times and it did not change anything, found some other fixes, such as overfilling the brakes so as to pressurize them therefore not allowing the bite point to move outwards. Or completely limiting the piston through the servowave mechanism underneath (with zipties and such) this one greatly reduces the amount of fluid inside the brake sistem therefore you will have to bleed them to compensate for brake pads thinning.
To introduce putoline into your brakes bleed them a couple times, dont wash out the older fluid by “letting it rip” and fully opening the brakes just fully bleed them with putoline as normal, as you use them and periodically bleed them you will clense the brakes of old mineral oil in them. In my experience putoline completely fixed wandering bite-point.
Just wanna let people know this will void the warranty if you are still within the time period of it
I had a nightmare of a time getting the putoline in the US, no one would ship it to me.
I ended up with redline likewater full synthetic suspension oil and it's been rock solid.
Per the sds for the redline and putoline, they are very similar so I feel safe using this given the following on the putoline.
A lot of what I read was that the thinner fluid moves through the system better, giving a better bleed, I also think it's just that much more reactive to inputs. Brakes have felt rock solid and consistent on hard fast runs, rolling down big rock slabs. Even makes the bite point work on my xtrs.
So far worth the upgrade, I'm well out of warranty period.
While I'm on my soapbox, galfer pads in the standard compound blow Shimano metallic/ resin out of the water...
Just wanted to let it be known that putoline hpx 2.5 oil works wonders on shimano brakes: I was suffering horrible wandering bite-point, tried bleeding a thousand times and it did not change anything, found some other fixes, such as overfilling the brakes so as to pressurize them therefore not allowing the bite point to move outwards. Or completely limiting the piston through the servowave mechanism underneath (with zipties and such) this one greatly reduces the amount of fluid inside the brake sistem therefore you will have to bleed them to compensate for brake pads thinning.
To introduce putoline into your brakes bleed them a couple times, dont wash out the older fluid by “letting it rip” and fully opening the brakes just fully bleed them with putoline as normal, as you use them and periodically bleed them you will clense the brakes of old mineral oil in them. In my experience putoline completely fixed wandering bite-point.
Just wanna let people know this will void the warranty if you are still within the time period of it
Am runing m820 saints so warranty is out, didn’t give it a thought. Also: putoline is 100% synthetic and inert, had some spare shimano seals so I soaked them for some time and nothing happened to them so felt safe using this fluid.
Also: if you cleanse your brakes before sending them to warranty, how would they know? Feels ilegal though, but I’ve seen worse.
While I'm on my soapbox, galfer pads in the standard compound blow Shimano metallic/ resin out of the water...
Happy to hear this. I just got some Galfers in the purple e-bike compound (the shop did not have the standard or pro compounds) for when my XT finned pads finish up (they are close).
Anyone ever use HEL Performance pads? I know they have plenty of motorcycle stuff, but having trouble finding any info on their MTB pads. A local guy is distributing them.
Yesterday I broke my dropper lever in a crash. It's an X-Fusion Manic that came on a Stumpy Evo. The remote uses the end of the cable with the metal barrel bit instead of a clamp. Can I just use any remote with a cable clamp instead? I can't think of the issue of having both ends of the cable being clamped.
Yesterday I broke my dropper lever in a crash. It's an X-Fusion Manic that came on a Stumpy Evo. The remote uses the end of the cable with the metal barrel bit instead of a clamp. Can I just use any remote with a cable clamp instead? I can't think of the issue of having both ends of the cable being clamped.
Thanks!
Nothing wrong with your idea, sone remotes even allow both, with a barrel end bit and a screw to clamp the cable on the remote’s end. Grab whatever remote you please!
Don't just start sending links to user manuals. Not helpful.
You and I have different definitions of the word "helpful". But don't worry, I won't help you at all.
£50 says he/she is under 20. I swear they must teach "how to piss off strangers while asking them for advice" as a subject at school these days. I work with few teenagers, and I have absolutely no qualms saying the ones these days are far worse at social interactions than the ones from 5 years ago.
Don't just start sending links to user manuals. Not helpful.
You and I have different definitions of the word "helpful". But don't worry, I won't help you at all.
£50 says he/she is under 20. I swear they must teach "how to piss off strangers while asking them for advice" as a subject at school these days. I work with few teenagers, and I have absolutely no qualms saying the ones these days are far worse at social interactions than the ones from 5 years ago.
You and I have different definitions of the word "helpful". But don't worry, I won't help you at all.
£50 says he/she is under 20. I swear they must teach "how to piss off strangers while asking them for advice" as a subject at school these days. I work with few teenagers, and I have absolutely no qualms saying the ones these days are far worse at social interactions than the ones from 5 years ago.
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£50 says he/she is under 20. I swear they must teach "how to piss off strangers while asking them for advice" as a subject at school these days. I work with few teenagers, and I have absolutely no qualms saying the ones these days are far worse at social interactions than the ones from 5 years ago. 