Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Aug 8, 2022 at 17:19 Quote
nubbs wrote:
Nobble wrote:
nubbs wrote:


No adjusting on that one.

Once you're getting chain slap you either warranty the derailleur or buy another one.
or you just accept that some chain slap is normal and ride the damn bike.

Haha no. I prefer the bike quiet. Axs mtb derailleur clutches are not up to the task and it's known.

Wait for next gen tho its supposed to be actually serviceable!
AXS clutches are mechanically no different to the standard ones. There’s just no housing to stabilize the B link.

O+
Posted: Aug 8, 2022 at 19:12 Quote
Nobble wrote:
nubbs wrote:
Nobble wrote:
or you just accept that some chain slap is normal and ride the damn bike.

Haha no. I prefer the bike quiet. Axs mtb derailleur clutches are not up to the task and it's known.

Wait for next gen tho its supposed to be actually serviceable!
AXS clutches are mechanically no different to the standard ones. There’s just no housing to stabilize the B link.

Oh I know it! I'm just trying to be nice not publicly bash every eagle derailleur they currently produce. But you got me covered

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 2:55 Quote
nubbs wrote:
Nobble wrote:
nubbs wrote:


Haha no. I prefer the bike quiet. Axs mtb derailleur clutches are not up to the task and it's known.

Wait for next gen tho its supposed to be actually serviceable!
AXS clutches are mechanically no different to the standard ones. There’s just no housing to stabilize the B link.

Oh I know it! I'm just trying to be nice not publicly bash every eagle derailleur they currently produce. But you got me covered

Just as a random and completely unhelpful anecdote:
My sram mechs have never had any noticeable clutch tension whatsoever. Ever. Straight out of the factory, the clutch achieves nothing.
My shimano mechs have always had pretty good clutch tension. However you can switch the clutch on and off on shimano mechs, and i tend to leave them switched off. I spend quite a lot of time and money keeping my suspension moving as free as possible, so it seems entirely counter intuitive to then purposely attach a clutch to it.
All my bikes have at least a top guide and a n/w chainring. All my bikes that I hammer through rowdy terrain have a top and bottom guide and a hefty chainstay protector. No dropped chains. A perfectly acceptable amount of chainslap noise.
IMO, clutch mechs are essentially pointless.

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 5:47 Quote
Quick question for all you geniuses, how do you bolt in your axle so it's lubed for movement but also stays in? I was wondering about a little threadlock on the thread and then light grease on the main shaft? I want to be able to remove it, I just don't want it removing itself lol

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 6:19 Quote
landscapeben wrote:
Quick question for all you geniuses, how do you bolt in your axle so it's lubed for movement but also stays in? I was wondering about a little threadlock on the thread and then light grease on the main shaft? I want to be able to remove it, I just don't want it removing itself lol

Clean the axle. Wipe a little grease on it - don't go crazy. Torque it properly. Shouldn't ever back out on its own. No thread lock should be used.

If you insist on using it anyway then use the blue stuff so you can remove it easier. But again - it shouldn't be necessary and I don't recommend it.

O+
Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 9:07 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
nubbs wrote:
Nobble wrote:
AXS clutches are mechanically no different to the standard ones. There’s just no housing to stabilize the B link.

Oh I know it! I'm just trying to be nice not publicly bash every eagle derailleur they currently produce. But you got me covered

Just as a random and completely unhelpful anecdote:
My sram mechs have never had any noticeable clutch tension whatsoever. Ever. Straight out of the factory, the clutch achieves nothing.
My shimano mechs have always had pretty good clutch tension. However you can switch the clutch on and off on shimano mechs, and i tend to leave them switched off. I spend quite a lot of time and money keeping my suspension moving as free as possible, so it seems entirely counter intuitive to then purposely attach a clutch to it.
All my bikes have at least a top guide and a n/w chainring. All my bikes that I hammer through rowdy terrain have a top and bottom guide and a hefty chainstay protector. No dropped chains. A perfectly acceptable amount of chainslap noise.
IMO, clutch mechs are essentially pointless.



I 100% agree with this. Clutches do nothing except mess up the suspension and add unnecessary weight.

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 10:12 Quote
Does anyone have a part number…

I have a newer fox 36. It runs a 180mm rotor without an adapter.

Which adapter do I need to run a 203mm rotor?

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 10:25 Quote
pdon wrote:
Does anyone have a part number…

I have a newer fox 36. It runs a 180mm rotor without an adapter.

Which adapter do I need to run a 203mm rotor?

Used Google. Found this: Manufacturer Part No. 820-09-009-kit


Hope it works.

Good luck.

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 10:45 Quote
BenLow2019 wrote:
pdon wrote:
Does anyone have a part number…

I have a newer fox 36. It runs a 180mm rotor without an adapter.

Which adapter do I need to run a 203mm rotor?

Used Google. Found this: Manufacturer Part No. 820-09-009-kit


Hope it works.

Good luck.

Huh, I didn't even realize that Fox offers brake adapters themselves. I would have just grabbed the Shimano adapter, which is part # ISMMA90F203PPM for this application.

O+
Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 10:50 Quote
Twenty6ers4life wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
nubbs wrote:


Oh I know it! I'm just trying to be nice not publicly bash every eagle derailleur they currently produce. But you got me covered

Just as a random and completely unhelpful anecdote:
My sram mechs have never had any noticeable clutch tension whatsoever. Ever. Straight out of the factory, the clutch achieves nothing.
My shimano mechs have always had pretty good clutch tension. However you can switch the clutch on and off on shimano mechs, and i tend to leave them switched off. I spend quite a lot of time and money keeping my suspension moving as free as possible, so it seems entirely counter intuitive to then purposely attach a clutch to it.
All my bikes have at least a top guide and a n/w chainring. All my bikes that I hammer through rowdy terrain have a top and bottom guide and a hefty chainstay protector. No dropped chains. A perfectly acceptable amount of chainslap noise.
IMO, clutch mechs are essentially pointless.



I 100% agree with this. Clutches do nothing except mess up the suspension and add unnecessary weight.

Move to Chicago for us and design a better clutch less derailleur then.

So when you're riding you feel the bike is slower and not performing as well because you can feel the clutch working. Epic. The true enthusiasts, bless.

O+
Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 10:52 Quote
pdon wrote:
Does anyone have a part number…

I have a newer fox 36. It runs a 180mm rotor without an adapter.

Which adapter do I need to run a 203mm rotor?

$25 on Amazon right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-F203P-Brake-Adaptor-Direct/dp/B01BZBRCYY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2N61C3VUIOZRY&keywords=shimano+180+to+203+adapter&qid=1660067466&sprefix=shimano+180+%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-2

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 11:16 Quote
nubbs wrote:
Move to Chicago for us and design a better clutch less derailleur then.

So when you're riding you feel the bike is slower and not performing as well because you can feel the clutch working. Epic. The true enthusiasts, bless.

Yeah, you can feel the clutch on shimano mechs, so I leave it turned off and have zero issues. You can't feel the clutch on sram mechs because the clutch doesnt do anything on sram mechs.

If i don't fit a chain device, I lose the chain when the trail turns rowdy whether the (shimano) clutch is on or off. With a chain device I never lose the chain.

TLDR: Shimano clutch mechs add nothing other than an annoying clunk through the feet when the suspension is compressed. Sram clutch mechs just do nothing.

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 12:34 Quote
Swapping stems and the new one will likely have a slightly different stack height. Not sure exactly how different but within +/- 2 mm. Will I be able to use my current headset spacer setup and steerer tube length since its such a small difference or should I get new spacers?

O+
Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 12:35 Quote
Exactly, Gabriel mission 9

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 12:51 Quote
MTBsnow wrote:
Swapping stems and the new one will likely have a slightly different stack height. Not sure exactly how different but within +/- 2 mm. Will I be able to use my current headset spacer setup and steerer tube length since its such a small difference or should I get new spacers?

Nobody can answer this without knowing the dimensions.
If the new stem is 2mm on the plus side and your cap bolt can still reach the star fangled nut then you'll probably be okay. If the new stem is 2mm on the minus side you may be okay unless the steerer protrudes beyond the top of the stem then you'll either have to add a spacer or shorten the steerer.

Bottom line: measure and determine now or wait and see when the stem is installed.

Good luck.


 
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