Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Aug 10, 2022 at 7:12 Quote
BenLow2019 wrote:
landscapeben wrote:
Quick question for all you geniuses, how do you bolt in your axle so it's lubed for movement but also stays in? I was wondering about a little threadlock on the thread and then light grease on the main shaft? I want to be able to remove it, I just don't want it removing itself lol

Clean the axle. Wipe a little grease on it - don't go crazy. Torque it properly. Shouldn't ever back out on its own. No thread lock should be used.

If you insist on using it anyway then use the blue stuff so you can remove it easier. But again - it shouldn't be necessary and I don't recommend it.

Ok sweet thanks.

Posted: Aug 10, 2022 at 10:47 Quote
TimMog wrote:
Odd problem. Noticed that my front wheel looked dished over to the NDS, the tyre being visibly closer to one fork leg than the other. Put the wheel in the truing stand to check, and it's perfect, dished correctly.
Wild Enduro tyre is seated properly on both sides, but deflated and inflated twice just to be sure. Stick the wheel back in the fork and it's still off. Fork is a 2020 Lyrik and not been crashed.

WTF is going on?

I once had a hub that the cones weren't solidly attached to the hub. I took it ot an LBS for a true an tension an they must have put the cones in the hub on the wrong side when they put it in the jig. So when I got it back an put it in the fork withe cones the right way.. the wheel was off to one side like you're describing..

Posted: Aug 10, 2022 at 11:36 Quote
naptime wrote:
TimMog wrote:
Odd problem. Noticed that my front wheel looked dished over to the NDS, the tyre being visibly closer to one fork leg than the other. Put the wheel in the truing stand to check, and it's perfect, dished correctly.
Wild Enduro tyre is seated properly on both sides, but deflated and inflated twice just to be sure. Stick the wheel back in the fork and it's still off. Fork is a 2020 Lyrik and not been crashed.

WTF is going on?

I once had a hub that the cones weren't solidly attached to the hub. I took it ot an LBS for a true an tension an they must have put the cones in the hub on the wrong side when they put it in the jig. So when I got it back an put it in the fork withe cones the right way.. the wheel was off to one side like you're describing..

Pretty sure both end caps are seated properly, and on the right sides. I've never removed them so can't see how they've got swapped over at any point. Will check though.

Posted: Aug 11, 2022 at 13:09 Quote
I've just swapped over the end caps (they're identical) and it seems to have helped centre the wheel better. Definitely not perfect, but much better than it was. I've never removed them, so unless a mate is playing a really shit joke, Ive no idea how that could have happened!

Posted: Aug 11, 2022 at 15:26 Quote
TimMog wrote:
I've just swapped over the end caps (they're identical) and it seems to have helped centre the wheel better. Definitely not perfect, but much better than it was. I've never removed them, so unless a mate is playing a really shit joke, Ive no idea how that could have happened!

If the wheel was perfectly dished in the wheel jig, with the spacers on the other way round, and the spacers appear identical, this still feels odd...
Especially if the rim is now better centered but still not perfect.

Any chance you could upload pics of the hub and spacers? With the spacers off the hub ideally.

Posted: Aug 11, 2022 at 23:54 Quote
I don't disagree, I'm baffled. I'll try and take photos later, but it's a Hope Pro 4 hub

Posted: Aug 12, 2022 at 0:09 Quote
TimMog wrote:
I don't disagree, I'm baffled. I'll try and take photos later, but it's a Hope Pro 4 hub

This is a long shot, but Hope hubs are extremely adaptable so it's worth asking...
Is the hub definitely set up for 15mm boost? The hubs are available in boost and non-boost versions, and with a whole host of possible end caps.
If your hub is non-boost, and/or set up for a 20mm axle, this could cause the issue you are describing.

Posted: Aug 12, 2022 at 2:53 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
TimMog wrote:
I don't disagree, I'm baffled. I'll try and take photos later, but it's a Hope Pro 4 hub

This is a long shot, but Hope hubs are extremely adaptable so it's worth asking...
Is the hub definitely set up for 15mm boost? The hubs are available in boost and non-boost versions, and with a whole host of possible end caps.
If your hub is non-boost, and/or set up for a 20mm axle, this could cause the issue you are describing.

Yep, definitely the right hubs and endcaps for my fork. I bought the wheels and forks together from a friend, and it was fine for the last year, this issue has only happened recently

Posted: Aug 13, 2022 at 12:30 Quote
2018 RS Pike Debonair
Seemed to have lost the grub screw on my rebound adjuster. DOes anyone know the size and thread?

Posted: Aug 13, 2022 at 17:43 Quote
Primo123 wrote:
2018 RS Pike Debonair
Seemed to have lost the grub screw on my rebound adjuster. DOes anyone know the size and thread?

Its a funny old bolt that, not just a standard off the shelf thing. It's got a dognose and a socket cap, which is unusual as far as bolts go, and if you replace it with a standard bolt it will almost certainly jam the adjuster in place. Also, more often than not, if the bolt fell out mid-ride, the threads in the adjuster cap are probably stripped out too.

But, to answer your question, off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure its an M2.5

O+
Posted: Aug 13, 2022 at 22:09 Quote
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?

Posted: Aug 14, 2022 at 3:46 Quote
char-s wrote:
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?


Noise?
I have a Santa Cruz Hightower MY20 and regulary service the lower link.
Tons of crap get in there, squeaking and grinding might become part of a ride

Posted: Aug 14, 2022 at 8:44 Quote
char-s wrote:
Doe's any one know if there is any consequences other than more friction from running a standard lower shock bushing rather than a bearing on a 2022 bronson?

No consequence of you ask me. Standard shock hardware will do fine.

Posted: Aug 14, 2022 at 17:18 Quote
Seems like I have a roughly 20 mm of "dead zone" in my Suntour XCR 32 Air. This means that the fork doesn't return to full 100mm travel and instead will return to 80mm of travel. Ik its a low end fork but any suggestions on fixes?

Posted: Aug 14, 2022 at 17:37 Quote
jonp-23 wrote:
Seems like I have a roughly 20 mm of "dead zone" in my Suntour XCR 32 Air. This means that the fork doesn't return to full 100mm travel and instead will return to 80mm of travel. Ik its a low end fork but any suggestions on fixes?

the fork is sucked down you probably need to rebuild it, but you could try taking it apart and cleaning the internals and regrease everything with sickoluem and see what happens if that doesnt work it rebuild time or time for a new fork if you cant find parts


 
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