Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 26, 2022 at 0:56 Quote
brady7brady wrote:
My 2012 bomber 888 rc3 evo has a seized preload adjuster I took it apart and tried lubricating the bolt but it wouldnt budge any ideas or possible ways to find a replacement

Is it jammed at min or max?
flag riish
Posted: Sep 26, 2022 at 2:36 Quote
Having some problems with a set of Saint M821 pedals. The right hand side one has some play in it that I can’t manage to get rid of. The ball-bearing preload is set correctly, but there’s still play between the pedal axle and the gold locknut that threads into the pedal body.

Anyone fixed a similar problem before?
Seems like it could be a bushing or something inside the locknut is worn out, but the exploded view doesn’t show anything there.
flag brady7brady
Posted: Sep 26, 2022 at 7:32 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
brady7brady wrote:
My 2012 bomber 888 rc3 evo has a seized preload adjuster I took it apart and tried lubricating the bolt but it wouldnt budge any ideas or possible ways to find a replacement

Is it jammed at min or max?


Its jammed at the minimum preload
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Sep 26, 2022 at 8:27 Quote
riish wrote:
Having some problems with a set of Saint M821 pedals. The right hand side one has some play in it that I can’t manage to get rid of. The ball-bearing preload is set correctly, but there’s still play between the pedal axle and the gold locknut that threads into the pedal body.

Anyone fixed a similar problem before?
Seems like it could be a bushing or something inside the locknut is worn out, but the exploded view doesn’t show anything there.

Add some more grease in there and recheck the preload as it can be tricky to get just right. Could also be worn and maybe you need to replace the gold locknut.
flag barp
Posted: Sep 26, 2022 at 10:58 Quote
riish wrote:
Having some problems with a set of Saint M821 pedals. The right hand side one has some play in it that I can’t manage to get rid of. The ball-bearing preload is set correctly, but there’s still play between the pedal axle and the gold locknut that threads into the pedal body.

Anyone fixed a similar problem before?
Seems like it could be a bushing or something inside the locknut is worn out, but the exploded view doesn’t show anything there.

If you're sure about the bearing preload being correct, then the likely explanation would be that the lock bushing (#2 on the exploded view) is worn out.
flag riish
Posted: Sep 27, 2022 at 1:01 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
riish wrote:
Having some problems with a set of Saint M821 pedals. The right hand side one has some play in it that I can’t manage to get rid of. The ball-bearing preload is set correctly, but there’s still play between the pedal axle and the gold locknut that threads into the pedal body.

Anyone fixed a similar problem before?
Seems like it could be a bushing or something inside the locknut is worn out, but the exploded view doesn’t show anything there.

Add some more grease in there and recheck the preload as it can be tricky to get just right. Could also be worn and maybe you need to replace the gold locknut.

So I decided to see what happened when I preloaded the bearings so much they wouldn’t spin. That got rid of the axle play, so from there I trial and errored my way to the maximum preload that still allowed the pedal to spin freely. The play is almost entirely gone now, there’s still a mm or so but I can live with that.

Thanks for the help!
flag brady7brady
Posted: Sep 27, 2022 at 8:44 Quote
also I can hear the coil of the bomber 888 on the inside of the stanchion is that normal and is there any way to lessen it
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 27, 2022 at 10:00 Quote
brady7brady wrote:
also I can hear the coil of the bomber 888 on the inside of the stanchion is that normal and is there any way to lessen it

Yeah thats fairly normal. If you pull the spring out and put a few 2" sections of heat shrink on it, that will help.
flag Lion1
Posted: Sep 27, 2022 at 20:46 Quote
Does anyone have a link to an Ohlins Mtb rear coil spring calculator? I can't seem to find any online besides generic ones that just tell you spring rate but not for each brand.
flag Nobble
Posted: Sep 27, 2022 at 21:15 Quote
Lion1 wrote:
Does anyone have a link to an Ohlins Mtb rear coil spring calculator? I can't seem to find any online besides generic ones that just tell you spring rate but not for each brand.
The physics of a coil spring work just the same for Ohlins as it does for Fox, Rockshox, or anyone else.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 28, 2022 at 0:38 Quote
Lion1 wrote:
Does anyone have a link to an Ohlins Mtb rear coil spring calculator? I can't seem to find any online besides generic ones that just tell you spring rate but not for each brand.

https://www.ohlins.com/performance-suspension-guide/
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2022 at 5:09 Quote
Hey guys I have what feels like a compounding of old standards/tolerances issue.

Swapping forks on my dads 2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er. It came with a reba of that vintage (32mm stanchions ect), tapered head tube, swapping to a 2018 pike also tapered head tube. The headset is an integrated option where the bearings drop directly into the frame the lower bearing does have a spacer in its bore. I swapped crown races (stock race is split fwiw), toss the fork in, tightening up on the headset preload the top of the fork crown around the race area rubs on the bottom of the head tube before I can take out all of the play. The bottom bearing sit a mm or so recessed within the frame. I tried with another crown race that fit with the taper of the bearings and got the same result…

Anyone ever run into something like this? I tried to find some shims to raise the crown race up a bit but only found 1 1/8th options. To bolt the bike together I stuck the other crown race on upside down, then the top split race, didn’t want the taper from the lower race to flare the top race. Any thoughts are appreciated… My current long term plan is to grind the taper off the second race and make my own shim, but I’d rather something that is a free fit.

The headset bearings are a little crusty but still spin *ok* and don’t seem to have any play that would allow the inner race to get pulled in further.

Thanks!!
flag adnauseam
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2022 at 9:28 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
Hey guys I have what feels like a compounding of old standards/tolerances issue.

Swapping forks on my dads 2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er. It came with a reba of that vintage (32mm stanchions ect), tapered head tube, swapping to a 2018 pike also tapered head tube. The headset is an integrated option where the bearings drop directly into the frame the lower bearing does have a spacer in its bore. I swapped crown races (stock race is split fwiw), toss the fork in, tightening up on the headset preload the top of the fork crown around the race area rubs on the bottom of the head tube before I can take out all of the play. The bottom bearing sit a mm or so recessed within the frame. I tried with another crown race that fit with the taper of the bearings and got the same result…

Anyone ever run into something like this? I tried to find some shims to raise the crown race up a bit but only found 1 1/8th options. To bolt the bike together I stuck the other crown race on upside down, then the top split race, didn’t want the taper from the lower race to flare the top race. Any thoughts are appreciated… My current long term plan is to grind the taper off the second race and make my own shim, but I’d rather something that is a free fit.

The headset bearings are a little crusty but still spin *ok* and don’t seem to have any play that would allow the inner race to get pulled in further.

Thanks!!

A new headset at $30 - $40 will save you a lot of time and grief at this point.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Sep 28, 2022 at 9:45 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
Hey guys I have what feels like a compounding of old standards/tolerances issue.

Swapping forks on my dads 2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er. It came with a reba of that vintage (32mm stanchions ect), tapered head tube, swapping to a 2018 pike also tapered head tube. The headset is an integrated option where the bearings drop directly into the frame the lower bearing does have a spacer in its bore. I swapped crown races (stock race is split fwiw), toss the fork in, tightening up on the headset preload the top of the fork crown around the race area rubs on the bottom of the head tube before I can take out all of the play. The bottom bearing sit a mm or so recessed within the frame. I tried with another crown race that fit with the taper of the bearings and got the same result…

Anyone ever run into something like this? I tried to find some shims to raise the crown race up a bit but only found 1 1/8th options. To bolt the bike together I stuck the other crown race on upside down, then the top split race, didn’t want the taper from the lower race to flare the top race. Any thoughts are appreciated… My current long term plan is to grind the taper off the second race and make my own shim, but I’d rather something that is a free fit.

The headset bearings are a little crusty but still spin *ok* and don’t seem to have any play that would allow the inner race to get pulled in further.

Thanks!!

Your solution (manufacturing your own shim) is a very good one. Taller lower crown races can be bought to achieve the same goal. However, as adnauseam says, buying a whole new headset will likely be much less stressful in the long run.
flag naptime
Posted: Sep 28, 2022 at 11:10 Quote
I could recommend a reverse 10mm crown spacer but, without seeing or knowing what's causing the issue that could just have the same problem. So, all you've changed is the fork?

 


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