Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 2, 2022 at 23:02 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
Any particular reason why adjustment clicks dissapears after a shock service?
I’ve the same problem. Did you find the reason?

O+
Posted: Oct 3, 2022 at 17:27 Quote
mtbman1980 wrote:
https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/search/

You can use the rockshox setup guide to help to get you back to a starting point and then experiment from there

This - I have a rockshox Pike Ultimate and am 167 lb (plus my pack, so call it 175-180 kitted) and it recommends 86 psi. I tried running lower and I'm pretty sure that I was bottoming like crazy and am now above 86 (probably close to 90 for the chunkier stuff). No tokens though. I have been running LSC at about 2 clicks (was getting harsh low speed travel over roots at low speed and climbing) and HSC right open (high speed is for weight transfer - brake dive). But, I'm riding a privateer so bike geometry and length and riding style will change how your fork works through its travel.

Posted: Oct 3, 2022 at 21:06 Quote
High speed compression isn’t for weight transfer and brake dive, those scenarios involve low shaft speeds. HSC controls compression at high shaft speeds such as square edge hits or flatter landings.

Posted: Oct 4, 2022 at 7:02 Quote
riish wrote:
High speed compression isn’t for weight transfer and brake dive, those scenarios involve low shaft speeds. HSC controls compression at high shaft speeds such as square edge hits or flatter landings.

^^

O+
Posted: Oct 4, 2022 at 9:39 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
riish wrote:
High speed compression isn’t for weight transfer and brake dive, those scenarios involve low shaft speeds. HSC controls compression at high shaft speeds such as square edge hits or flatter landings.

^^

O+
Posted: Oct 4, 2022 at 9:41 Quote
TravellerSeko wrote:
Noeserd wrote:
Any particular reason why adjustment clicks dissapears after a shock service?
I’ve the same problem. Did you find the reason?

Can be tons of reasons for clickers to not feel same after service.

What shock is itand what adjuster is it

Posted: Oct 4, 2022 at 9:46 Quote
Well its the same cc db il, i know hsc and hsr doesn't have clicks from original but lsc and hsc has clicks. Which now they don't

O+
Posted: Oct 4, 2022 at 15:06 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
Well its the same cc db il, i know hsc and hsr doesn't have clicks from original but lsc and hsc has clicks. Which now they don't

Ah. Never worked on them. They suck.


Only thought is detent ball is missing/wrong size or too much grease in detent orifice. Or detent spring is missing.

Posted: Oct 5, 2022 at 5:33 Quote
nubbs wrote:
TravellerSeko wrote:
Noeserd wrote:
Any particular reason why adjustment clicks dissapears after a shock service?
I’ve the same problem. Did you find the reason?

Can be tons of reasons for clickers to not feel same after service.

What shock is itand what adjuster is it

My shock is Vivid RC2 coil. I mentioned this also before sending shock to service. It has been serviced by SRAM itself. It’s turning hard comparing other knobs. I can feel a bit the clicks but %100 not hear or feel perfectly just like others. Maybe it is not an issue because it has always been like that since I bought this bicycle. I just feel it shouldn’t be like this when I feel the clicks easily on other knobs if this shock.

O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2022 at 7:09 Quote
I have the Vivid R2C Coil as well, and the early stroke rebound feels like shit to turn. I think it is the design.

Posted: Oct 5, 2022 at 15:07 Quote
Need help.
After buying a gambler 710 i checked the bearings and i came across this assembly, do you think it is correct?

https://ibb.co/zG82RVZ

thank you

Posted: Oct 5, 2022 at 19:43 Quote
What do you think would be the best way to remove an anodizing finish off of an alloy pedal. Would wet sanding or using a wire brush attachment on a drill be the best move? It seems that a wire brush attachment would not do well on the tough anodizing finish.

Posted: Oct 5, 2022 at 19:52 Quote
Lion1 wrote:
What do you think would be the best way to remove an anodizing finish off of an alloy pedal. Would wet sanding or using a wire brush attachment on a drill be the best move? It seems that a wire brush attachment would not do well on the tough anodizing finish.

A long dip in Simple Green cleaner, or a short dip in lye solution.

You'll need to protect the bearings, of course. But it'll come out much more evenly than trying to remove the finish by friction from all those nooks and crannies.

Posted: Oct 6, 2022 at 4:51 Quote
Vtax wrote:
Need help.
After buying a gambler 710 i checked the bearings and i came across this assembly, do you think it is correct?

https://ibb.co/zG82RVZ

thank you

If the circlip is sitting in a groove, then yes it's correct. If it's not sitting in a groove, you'll be able to remove it very easily without circlip pliers, in which case it's not in the right place

Posted: Oct 6, 2022 at 4:54 Quote
Lion1 wrote:
What do you think would be the best way to remove an anodizing finish off of an alloy pedal. Would wet sanding or using a wire brush attachment on a drill be the best move? It seems that a wire brush attachment would not do well on the tough anodizing finish.

Remove anything from the pedal that's not anodised (axle, bearings, seals, etc) then pop the pedal body into a sealed sandwich bag with some oven cleaner liquid. Most oven cleaners will strip anodising with very little effort.


 
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