Do you guys know of any other bikes that use a 165x45mm size rear shock. I am looking for a new frame but would like to transfer my rear shock over to the new frame. Currently have an evil following frame and would like to try a different frame out. The only other frame that I can find that uses this size is a Giant trance. Does anyone know of any other frames that use this rear shock size?
Do you have a super fancy rear shock or something? Usually better to buy the frame you want which will often come with a shock, and the sell your existing shock.
Yeah I have a really nice shock that I would like to put on the new bike and not have to sell it. It seems like it is just the Following that has around 120mm travel and that shock size.
Do you guys know of any other bikes that use a 165x45mm size rear shock. I am looking for a new frame but would like to transfer my rear shock over to the new frame. Currently have an evil following frame and would like to try a different frame out. The only other frame that I can find that uses this size is a Giant trance. Does anyone know of any other frames that use this rear shock size?
Do you have a super fancy rear shock or something? Usually better to buy the frame you want which will often come with a shock, and the sell your existing shock.
Yeah I have a really nice shock that I would like to put on the new bike and not have to sell it. It seems like it is just the Following that has around 120mm travel and that shock size.
What shock is it? Most can be rebuilt to pretty much any size you like for a fraction of the cost of a totally new shock. Limiting your frame choice so radically by choosing the shock dimensions first seems counterproductive in the long run. Broadening your choice of what frames are compatible could well save you more money than having the shock rebuilt in a different size would cost you.
Do you have a super fancy rear shock or something? Usually better to buy the frame you want which will often come with a shock, and the sell your existing shock.
Yeah I have a really nice shock that I would like to put on the new bike and not have to sell it. It seems like it is just the Following that has around 120mm travel and that shock size.
What shock is it? Most can be rebuilt to pretty much any size you like for a fraction of the cost of a totally new shock. Limiting your frame choice so radically by choosing the shock dimensions first seems counterproductive in the long run. Broadening your choice of what frames are compatible could well save you more money than having the shock rebuilt in a different size would cost you.
Not to mention the shock tou have is likely tuned to work with the evil and possibly not tuned to work with whatever you may find. Meaning for all your efforts you could end up with a bike that rides like a sweaty donkey.
Yeah I have a really nice shock that I would like to put on the new bike and not have to sell it. It seems like it is just the Following that has around 120mm travel and that shock size.
What shock is it? Most can be rebuilt to pretty much any size you like for a fraction of the cost of a totally new shock. Limiting your frame choice so radically by choosing the shock dimensions first seems counterproductive in the long run. Broadening your choice of what frames are compatible could well save you more money than having the shock rebuilt in a different size would cost you.
Not to mention the shock tou have is likely tuned to work with the evil and possibly not tuned to work with whatever you may find. Meaning for all your efforts you could end up with a bike that rides like a sweaty donkey.
So it seems like my best options are either broadening my choices of new frames by looking at frames with other shock sizes and just accepting the rear shock that comes with them or I could take the shock in for service and have them extend the ETE and stroke to fit the new frame.
Not to mention the shock tou have is likely tuned to work with the evil and possibly not tuned to work with whatever you may find. Meaning for all your efforts you could end up with a bike that rides like a sweaty donkey.
this is very true. for the cost of a retune you are halfway to a new shock, depending on the shock obviously.
i bought new used X2 for my bike that came off a WAO Arrival. the price was cheap. about half of new. I paid an additional $350 CDN to have it serviced and re-tuned for my bike (soft compression/rebound changed to medium). it did get some upgrades in the process as well - fox upgraded the trunnion and main body with the new model at no cost.
i ended up paying only about $150 less than new....but a new one would have still required the $350 custom tune, so arguably $500 saved....but in reality...$850 spent.
What shock is it? Most can be rebuilt to pretty much any size you like for a fraction of the cost of a totally new shock. Limiting your frame choice so radically by choosing the shock dimensions first seems counterproductive in the long run. Broadening your choice of what frames are compatible could well save you more money than having the shock rebuilt in a different size would cost you.
Not to mention the shock tou have is likely tuned to work with the evil and possibly not tuned to work with whatever you may find. Meaning for all your efforts you could end up with a bike that rides like a sweaty donkey.
So it seems like my best options are either broadening my choices of new frames by looking at frames with other shock sizes and just accepting the rear shock that comes with them or I could take the shock in for service and have them extend the ETE and stroke to fit the new frame.
I asked this before but never got a genuine answer so I'll post this here see if anyone had the same experience.
I had xt/slx/deore 12spd derailleur get smacked and even if the hanger was aligned, shifting was garbage.
Same happened with my current gx derailleur but I did manage to bend the hanger to counteract the bend in (the parallelogram??) I am not even sure what exactly broke, because the xt looks almost brand new and it only lasted me like 2 weeks back when it was new because of a little smack.
Is it the hanger that's being too stiff and the derailleur wrecks before the hanger gives in? What can I do with those spare derailleurs? (I did give 2 of them for my mates running single speed because Shimano's clutch is great) but I'm just left with an expensive xt derailleur looking brand new that just doesn't shift right.
I asked this before but never got a genuine answer so I'll post this here see if anyone had the same experience.
I had xt/slx/deore 12spd derailleur get smacked and even if the hanger was aligned, shifting was garbage.
Same happened with my current gx derailleur but I did manage to bend the hanger to counteract the bend in (the parallelogram??) I am not even sure what exactly broke, because the xt looks almost brand new and it only lasted me like 2 weeks back when it was new because of a little smack.
Is it the hanger that's being too stiff and the derailleur wrecks before the hanger gives in? What can I do with those spare derailleurs? (I did give 2 of them for my mates running single speed because Shimano's clutch is great) but I'm just left with an expensive xt derailleur looking brand new that just doesn't shift right.
Derailleur hanger have for a long while now strayed from their stated purpose of being a sacrificial part to spare the derailleur. You got unlucky and busted your derailleur but the lack of visual indications of breakage have you feeling annoyed.
As for what to do with your broken derailleur, idk maybe some sculpture art?
I asked this before but never got a genuine answer so I'll post this here see if anyone had the same experience.
I had xt/slx/deore 12spd derailleur get smacked and even if the hanger was aligned, shifting was garbage.
Same happened with my current gx derailleur but I did manage to bend the hanger to counteract the bend in (the parallelogram??) I am not even sure what exactly broke, because the xt looks almost brand new and it only lasted me like 2 weeks back when it was new because of a little smack.
Is it the hanger that's being too stiff and the derailleur wrecks before the hanger gives in? What can I do with those spare derailleurs? (I did give 2 of them for my mates running single speed because Shimano's clutch is great) but I'm just left with an expensive xt derailleur looking brand new that just doesn't shift right.
would really depend on the impact. hangers are (generally) weaker laterally, but thats not to say a vertical smack wouldnt bend it.
i would personally keep the broken one for replacement parts. possibly might be able to frankenstein a couple broken ones together for a working one down the road.
i fortunately? have the opposite experience as you, and i go through hangers like no one's business.
So I have another fork question same general topic
On the ohlins manual it says to make the lower crown to the wiper seal measurement 220mm Starting with the spring side- easy enough no problem
My problem is when I get to the damper side, when the measurement between the lower crown and the wiper seal is 220mm the stanchion on the damper side sticks up past the top crown about 3/4” but the spring side only sits above about a 1/4”
I had a bike shop mount it for me originally and if I mount it on the clamp marks from where it looks to have been mounted before the measurement on the damper side is 228mm and spring side is 220mm
Now I did not measure it before I removed it- didn’t think much of re installing since I got the manual
Is it a problem that one stanchion sticks up higher than the other? On my manitou dorado both stanchions stick past the top crown an equal amount
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