So I have another fork question same general topic
On the ohlins manual it says to make the lower crown to the wiper seal measurement 220mm Starting with the spring side- easy enough no problem
My problem is when I get to the damper side, when the measurement between the lower crown and the wiper seal is 220mm the stanchion on the damper side sticks up past the top crown about 3/4” but the spring side only sits above about a 1/4”
I had a bike shop mount it for me originally and if I mount it on the clamp marks from where it looks to have been mounted before the measurement on the damper side is 228mm and spring side is 220mm
Now I did not measure it before I removed it- didn’t think much of re installing since I got the manual
Is it a problem that one stanchion sticks up higher than the other? On my manitou dorado both stanchions stick past the top crown an equal amount
I don't quite understand what you have written. The measurement between the lower crown and the wiper seal has no impact on whether the two stanchions stick out of the top crown the same amount.
The spring side is what defines where the lowers sit. Set the spring side so that the scraper seal sits 220mm from the lower crown, then set the damper stanchion so it is level with the spring side stanchion.
So I have another fork question same general topic
On the ohlins manual it says to make the lower crown to the wiper seal measurement 220mm Starting with the spring side- easy enough no problem
My problem is when I get to the damper side, when the measurement between the lower crown and the wiper seal is 220mm the stanchion on the damper side sticks up past the top crown about 3/4” but the spring side only sits above about a 1/4”
I had a bike shop mount it for me originally and if I mount it on the clamp marks from where it looks to have been mounted before the measurement on the damper side is 228mm and spring side is 220mm
Now I did not measure it before I removed it- didn’t think much of re installing since I got the manual
Is it a problem that one stanchion sticks up higher than the other? On my manitou dorado both stanchions stick past the top crown an equal amount
I don't quite understand what you have written. The measurement between the lower crown and the wiper seal has no impact on whether the two stanchions stick out of the top crown the same amount.
The spring side is what defines where the lowers sit. Set the spring side so that the scraper seal sits 220mm from the lower crown, then set the damper stanchion so it is level with the spring side stanchion.
Thanks Gabriel- I appreciate it that cleared it up
Hi all, so I noticed over the last few days that my Fox 38’s have been losing pressure in the main air chamber without losing support and also having terrible topout. I figured maybe the air leaked into the lowers, so I push the lower bleeder valves and roughly 40-50 psi comes out of the lowers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and should I contact Fox about a possible warranty or should I be fine with just replacing the airspring or seals.
Hi all, so I noticed over the last few days that my Fox 38’s have been losing pressure in the main air chamber without losing support and also having terrible topout. I figured maybe the air leaked into the lowers, so I push the lower bleeder valves and roughly 40-50 psi comes out of the lowers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and should I contact Fox about a possible warranty or should I be fine with just replacing the airspring or seals.
Any and all replies are greatly appreciated!!
Sounds like the negative chamber on the air spring is leaking. A standard air spring service should fix this, unless there is a more fundamental issue like a cracked piston shaft or similar.
Hi all, so I noticed over the last few days that my Fox 38’s have been losing pressure in the main air chamber without losing support and also having terrible topout. I figured maybe the air leaked into the lowers, so I push the lower bleeder valves and roughly 40-50 psi comes out of the lowers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and should I contact Fox about a possible warranty or should I be fine with just replacing the airspring or seals.
Any and all replies are greatly appreciated!!
As mentioned the air spring service should fix this, though fox may cover under warranty so worth a try.
Hi all, so I noticed over the last few days that my Fox 38’s have been losing pressure in the main air chamber without losing support and also having terrible topout. I figured maybe the air leaked into the lowers, so I push the lower bleeder valves and roughly 40-50 psi comes out of the lowers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and should I contact Fox about a possible warranty or should I be fine with just replacing the airspring or seals.
Any and all replies are greatly appreciated!!
As mentioned the air spring service should fix this, though fox may cover under warranty so worth a try depending on age
but it has so many rattles and creaks its kinda absurd
I've solved most of them but some remain
Pivots are sorted , Not the Pressfit BB , I've eliminated the frame storage door which was a big one , all cables inside the frame have foam tubing in which they run but A small creak remains which seems to be coming from the headset area
I've serviced the headset just now and the sound remains
Has anyone found something weird with this frame that I might still be missing ?
but it has so many rattles and creaks its kinda absurd
I've solved most of them but some remain
Pivots are sorted , Not the Pressfit BB , I've eliminated the frame storage door which was a big one , all cables inside the frame have foam tubing in which they run but A small creak remains which seems to be coming from the headset area
I've serviced the headset just now and the sound remains
Has anyone found something weird with this frame that I might still be missing ?
I would like to swap the cranksets on two bikes: -Bike 1 pressfit: Sram X1 1000 Eagle with Sram DUB 92mm Pressfit -Bike 2 theaded: Shimano SLX M7100 with threaded BSA 73mm
Could somebody confirm that I need to buy these two bottom brackets: -Sram DUB BSA (68-73mm) or similar -Shimano MT800 92mm pressfit or similar
I asked this before but never got a genuine answer so I'll post this here see if anyone had the same experience.
I had xt/slx/deore 12spd derailleur get smacked and even if the hanger was aligned, shifting was garbage.
Same happened with my current gx derailleur but I did manage to bend the hanger to counteract the bend in (the parallelogram??) I am not even sure what exactly broke, because the xt looks almost brand new and it only lasted me like 2 weeks back when it was new because of a little smack.
Is it the hanger that's being too stiff and the derailleur wrecks before the hanger gives in? What can I do with those spare derailleurs? (I did give 2 of them for my mates running single speed because Shimano's clutch is great) but I'm just left with an expensive xt derailleur looking brand new that just doesn't shift right.
The huge downside to 11 then 12 speed transmissions is that everything (Hanger, derailleur) needs to be perfectly straight and dialed for it to work. And to make things worse, the cages have become very long which add leverage in case of strike and amplifies any bend. Derailleur have become almost consumable, I broke more derailleurs (3 or 4 I think) than hanger (0) since I switched to 1x 3 bikes ago.
I would like to swap the cranksets on two bikes: -Bike 1 pressfit: Sram X1 1000 Eagle with Sram DUB 92mm Pressfit -Bike 2 theaded: Shimano SLX M7100 with threaded BSA 73mm
Could somebody confirm that I need to buy these two bottom brackets: -Sram DUB BSA (68-73mm) or similar -Shimano MT800 92mm pressfit or similar
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