I am trying to swap rims on two bikes. A 141QR Boost to 148 Boost conversion, and then the opposite for other bike 148 down to 141QR.
I see conversion kits on Amazon and Ebay, I've watched a few YoutTube vids, but I am absolutley lost. Ha!!! It looks like simple end caps to just "pop on" but my rims don't look like what they are showing!!!
The 141 to 148 conversion would be for the hub spacing… so I assume you mean to say that the hubs don’t look like in the video? What hubs do you have? And do you possibly have a link to the end caps you are seeing?
Or are you trying to swap the rim itself and re-lace the whole wheel?
Trying to avoid the relace. That's why I went looking for a convertor.
The 141QR is off Trek Roscoe 7 stock hubs. The 148 is off Giant hubs from Trance 2. So they might be weird proprietary deals? Or is that a thing. Sorry newb about this.
Is the cassette properly torqued down onto the freehub body?
Definitely.
If its a modern 11s freehub body, do you have a spacer behind the 10s cassette? 10s cassettes are shorter in length than 11s by a few mm, meaning that with 11s freehub bodies when the cassette fixing bolt is done up tight the cassette itself can appear tight, but not actually be fully compressed together. This regularly leads to noise when cranking hard in the easiest gears.
Originally tried to use no spacer behind largest cogs, couldn't get the cassette tight. So yes, I had to use the spacer. Cassette is tight for sure.
If its a modern 11s freehub body, do you have a spacer behind the 10s cassette? 10s cassettes are shorter in length than 11s by a few mm, meaning that with 11s freehub bodies when the cassette fixing bolt is done up tight the cassette itself can appear tight, but not actually be fully compressed together. This regularly leads to noise when cranking hard in the easiest gears.
Originally tried to use no spacer behind largest cogs, couldn't get the cassette tight. So yes, I had to use the spacer. Cassette is tight for sure.
Have you checked the rest of the wheel? (Thru axle, freehub body, bearings)
If its a modern 11s freehub body, do you have a spacer behind the 10s cassette? 10s cassettes are shorter in length than 11s by a few mm, meaning that with 11s freehub bodies when the cassette fixing bolt is done up tight the cassette itself can appear tight, but not actually be fully compressed together. This regularly leads to noise when cranking hard in the easiest gears.
Originally tried to use no spacer behind largest cogs, couldn't get the cassette tight. So yes, I had to use the spacer. Cassette is tight for sure.
Have you checked the rest of the wheel? (Thru axle, freehub body, bearings)
It is brand new, barely ridden. Will check cassette tightness just to be sure, but I doubt it is that.
Have you checked the rest of the wheel? (Thru axle, freehub body, bearings)
It is brand new, barely ridden. Will check cassette tightness just to be sure, but I doubt it is that.
Just cause it’s new doesn’t mean it was properly built at the factory.
Well, thru axle is tight, no play, freehub body looked fresh, bearings run as smooth as they could. Nothing suspicious. It really seems like something between the cassette and the RD arm, no clue what it could be though.
Yes, when I built up the bike, I straightened the hanger with the tool that straightens it according to the rear rim.
Well, I'm out of ideas. If you're saying the cassette is tight, the freehub is good, the chainline is good, the derailleur hanger is straight, etc... other than a manufacturing error with the shift ramps or something, I have no idea.
Yes, when I built up the bike, I straightened the hanger with the tool that straightens it according to the rear rim.
Well, I'm out of ideas. If you're saying the cassette is tight, the freehub is good, the chainline is good, the derailleur hanger is straight, etc... other than a manufacturing error with the shift ramps or something, I have no idea.
It probably will be the chainline, although I refuse to believe it. A full saint drivetrain should have a chainline around 50.4mm, I roughly measured mine and it can't be far off that.
The narrow teeth's paint on the chainring is more worn on the outside than on the inside, so the chain worn it down when riding in the biggest gears, even though I ride in the lower half of the cassette for the majority of the time. Can that be an indication?
I am trying to swap rims on two bikes. A 141QR Boost to 148 Boost conversion, and then the opposite for other bike 148 down to 141QR.
I see conversion kits on Amazon and Ebay, I've watched a few YoutTube vids, but I am absolutley lost. Ha!!! It looks like simple end caps to just "pop on" but my rims don't look like what they are showing!!!
The 141 to 148 conversion would be for the hub spacing… so I assume you mean to say that the hubs don’t look like in the video? What hubs do you have? And do you possibly have a link to the end caps you are seeing?
Or are you trying to swap the rim itself and re-lace the whole wheel?
Trying to avoid the relace. That's why I went looking for a convertor.
The 141QR is off Trek Roscoe 7 stock hubs. The 148 is off Giant hubs from Trance 2. So they might be weird proprietary deals? Or is that a thing. Sorry newb about this.
If you can't post the make and model of the hubs then I recommend that you at least post pictures of the two hubs. Some can be converted and some can't. Without more information the forum will not be able to assist swiftly.
The narrow teeth's paint on the chainring is more worn on the outside than on the inside, so the chain worn it down when riding in the biggest gears, even though I ride in the lower half of the cassette for the majority of the time. Can that be an indication?
Yeah, this is what I was thinking--some 1x chain and chainring combos just like to make noise when the chainline gets too crooked. Typically it quiets down after you've put a good number of miles into it.
The narrow teeth's paint on the chainring is more worn on the outside than on the inside, so the chain worn it down when riding in the biggest gears, even though I ride in the lower half of the cassette for the majority of the time. Can that be an indication?
Yeah, this is what I was thinking--some 1x chain and chainring combos just like to make noise when the chainline gets too crooked. Typically it quiets down after you've put a good number of miles into it.
Seems like there is no other fix to that, I don't really engage the crunch unintentionally ever anyway, but it's annoying on a new whip haha.
On the other hand, would a correct chainline fix it? There would be like 3mm difference in chainline to make it perfect, but there is 3 gears crunching, that's a range of like 15mm. The chainline just doesn't make sense for me to be the thing to blame.
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