I have a very weird issue with a Shimano Saint 10s RD and a Shimano XT 11-34 cassette.
It is a fairly fresh drivetrain, in fact the whole bike is new. Not brand new, got a few rides in already.
The annoying thing is that when power pedalling in the easiest 3 gears, the chain/cassette/RD is crunching/grinding. B-gap is set properly to about 5mm, indexing is as precise as I could get it, shifting is smooth, no other noise or grind being felt when changing gears.
Just the top 3 gears grinding. Clutch on/off, no effect. Casually pedalling, no crunch, power pedalling, loud crunching. With/without RD mode converter, no effect.
Any ideas?
Does the little link on the mech have dh or fr stamped on it? For zee mechs that changes the max tooth size from 28 to 36 or so.
I ran into this put together a custom 7 speed block to like 34t for my dh bike and had to drop a wolf tooth goat link (had on hand) in to replace the dh tagged link. I forget if I could get enough b tension on it before swapping the link though.
I have a very weird issue with a Shimano Saint 10s RD and a Shimano XT 11-34 cassette.
It is a fairly fresh drivetrain, in fact the whole bike is new. Not brand new, got a few rides in already.
The annoying thing is that when power pedalling in the easiest 3 gears, the chain/cassette/RD is crunching/grinding. B-gap is set properly to about 5mm, indexing is as precise as I could get it, shifting is smooth, no other noise or grind being felt when changing gears.
Just the top 3 gears grinding. Clutch on/off, no effect. Casually pedalling, no crunch, power pedalling, loud crunching. With/without RD mode converter, no effect.
Any ideas?
Does the little link on the mech have dh or fr stamped on it? For zee mechs that changes the max tooth size from 28 to 36 or so.
I ran into this put together a custom 7 speed block to like 34t for my dh bike and had to drop a wolf tooth goat link (had on hand) in to replace the dh tagged link. I forget if I could get enough b tension on it before swapping the link though.
The B-link has "close ratio compatible" stamped on it. With the saint comes a mode converter which you can screw on, but with it on, I couldn't get the B-set close enough. So the converter is probably for the DH cassettes.
I have a very weird issue with a Shimano Saint 10s RD and a Shimano XT 11-34 cassette.
It is a fairly fresh drivetrain, in fact the whole bike is new. Not brand new, got a few rides in already.
The annoying thing is that when power pedalling in the easiest 3 gears, the chain/cassette/RD is crunching/grinding. B-gap is set properly to about 5mm, indexing is as precise as I could get it, shifting is smooth, no other noise or grind being felt when changing gears.
Just the top 3 gears grinding. Clutch on/off, no effect. Casually pedalling, no crunch, power pedalling, loud crunching. With/without RD mode converter, no effect.
Any ideas?
Does the little link on the mech have dh or fr stamped on it? For zee mechs that changes the max tooth size from 28 to 36 or so.
I ran into this put together a custom 7 speed block to like 34t for my dh bike and had to drop a wolf tooth goat link (had on hand) in to replace the dh tagged link. I forget if I could get enough b tension on it before swapping the link though.
The B-link has "close ratio compatible" stamped on it. With the saint comes a mode converter which you can screw on, but with it on, I couldn't get the B-set close enough. So the converter is probably for the DH cassettes.
Mode converter with the Saint is for "freeride" cassettes with a higher T count 1st or lowest gear, but like I've said @LukasKovarik I'm using a 11-32 T Deore XT "freeride" cassette and there's no way to set the 4-5mm distance if I use the mode converter.
I have done some digging and discovered that there's a replacement steel freehub body, hub540. If needed.
But I'm still waiting on that measurement of your BB shell, so we can confirm your chainline.
Does the little link on the mech have dh or fr stamped on it? For zee mechs that changes the max tooth size from 28 to 36 or so.
I ran into this put together a custom 7 speed block to like 34t for my dh bike and had to drop a wolf tooth goat link (had on hand) in to replace the dh tagged link. I forget if I could get enough b tension on it before swapping the link though.
The B-link has "close ratio compatible" stamped on it. With the saint comes a mode converter which you can screw on, but with it on, I couldn't get the B-set close enough. So the converter is probably for the DH cassettes.
Mode converter with the Saint is for "freeride" cassettes with a higher T count 1st or lowest gear, but like I've said @LukasKovarik I'm using a 11-32 T Deore XT "freeride" cassette and there's no way to set the 4-5mm distance if I use the mode converter.
I have done some digging and discovered that there's a replacement steel freehub body, hub540. If needed.
But I'm still waiting on that measurement of your BB shell, so we can confirm your chainline.
Sent the answer with the BB measurement in the other thread, you should be able to see it.
Anyone know of a sealant that is non-corrosive on alloy nipples?
I’ve been using Stan’s original and now Stan’s Race sealant with alloy nipples and carbon rims forever and never had an issue with corrosion. Then again, the sealant doesn’t touch my nipples. I think the only issues with corrosion were with old carbon envy rims with an alloy nipple below the rim where it had a tendency to get damp and never really dry out causing electrolysis and corrosion. Normal carbon rims with the nipples exposed don’t have that issue, unless you live by the ocean and leave your bike parked outside. But whoever does that deserves what they get.
Hey guys, trying to service / get my 2016 ish Fox Vanilla RC serviced.
I'm an HVAC technician so I have a nitrogen tank, regulator, vacuum pump and all that jazz. Hoping there's some sort of way to service it myself since I got all the equipment I likely need. All that needs changing (far as I can tell) are the seals as the shock sweats some oil. No other issues at all.
On the other hand, wondering if there's a suspension servicing center somewhere in southern Ontario/Greater Toronto Area I could get a service price from.
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I think the only issues with corrosion were with old carbon envy rims with an alloy nipple below the rim where it had a tendency to get damp and never really dry out causing electrolysis and corrosion. Normal carbon rims with the nipples exposed don’t have that issue, unless you live by the ocean and leave your bike parked outside. But whoever does that deserves what they get. 