What is better for the bike park, dual or single crown fork? Will dual restrict you from tight tech sections and turns
I usually say if your racing then full dh bike but if your just having fun then the single crown is gonna be more fun. Full dh bikes will be difficult to throw around and it is usually more fun to ride a big travel single crown.
Can anyone comment on how much difference there is in the stiffness between a Yari/lyrik and a Domain/Zeb (I've got a 170mm 29er)? 65kg rider on an ebike if that makes much difference.
I've got a RC2 lyrik damper so was considering swapping my Domain R for a Yari and swapping the RC2 in.
What’s the best way to route my front brake through my steerer tube. Best video to watch for help etc. is a new brake hose 100% needed?
most likely not. you'll need a new olive. quite a few companies sell kits for this, you may need a brake bleed, but sometimes you can shorten without this. something ive seen a lot is using the oneup edc carrier and cutting a notch in to a cheap cassette tool to tighten it. this leaves the brake hose as free as possible
What’s the best way to route my front brake through my steerer tube. Best video to watch for help etc. is a new brake hose 100% needed?
You'd want to get a hollow stop stem cap and a new hose if your current one isn't long enough. If you trim your hose you will also need a barb and olive if you do decide to trim the old hose.
Can anyone comment on how much difference there is in the stiffness between a Yari/lyrik and a Domain/Zeb (I've got a 170mm 29er)? 65kg rider on an ebike if that makes much difference.
I've got a RC2 lyrik damper so was considering swapping my Domain R for a Yari and swapping the RC2 in.
It's pretty significant if you ask me.
But being that you're on the lighter end of the spectrum a lyrik would be OK. The handlebar feedback from the zeb stiffness is noticeable which lead to earlier fatigue on the hands etc.
I broke my derailleur so I ordered a new one, Shimano SLX M7120. I did not read the blurb fully and it is a 2x12 speed. I have a 1x12 speed. Can I still use it? or do i need the 1x12spd which is the SLX M7100?
Been chasing down a break from my Bronson, finally found that it was the UDH. I used a bit of carbon assembly paste on the smooth outer surface, greased the bolt threads, and also the thru-axle threads. That’s fixed the noise, although I noticed in SRAM’s documentation that the UDH should be installed dry.
What’s the consensus here on the correct way to install it? I’m not sure if the plastic SRAM UDH’s are a different procedure to the aluminium Santa Cruz one.
Wondering where (if possible) to find a replacement shock link for my 2002 Specialized FSR Enduro Pro. It's fracturing at the drain holes, if that's not possible then I would love tips on removing the sealed bearings so I could take the link to a machine shop to have the fractures welded, the sealed bearings are crazy stuck in there.
I broke my derailleur so I ordered a new one, Shimano SLX M7120. I did not read the blurb fully and it is a 2x12 speed. I have a 1x12 speed. Can I still use it? or do i need the 1x12spd which is the SLX M7100?
Thanks
You need the M7100 if your big cog is 51t. The M7120 is for a maximum 45t cog, I believe.
Wondering where (if possible) to find a replacement shock link for my 2002 Specialized FSR Enduro Pro. It's fracturing at the drain holes, if that's not possible then I would love tips on removing the sealed bearings so I could take the link to a machine shop to have the fractures welded, the sealed bearings are crazy stuck in there.
The machine shop will be the best people to remove the bearings prior to welding. However I'd expect new cracks to form quite quickly unless you have some way of heat treating post-weld