Yeah, I saw that after I hit send. On old ass iPhone. Normally it has cone nuts of some sort you take off on the disc side to access the other side. Typically just an Allen to remove the free hub body and you just buy a new one for $20ish.
Help, please. I'm trying to replace my freewheel bearings. Because its a two notch lock ring I thought the park tool FR-2 would fit. I bought it and it doesn't fit. After measuring the freewheel I found out the tool is around 6 mm smaller and the prongs are too thick. Does anyone know how to get to the bearings? thanks
1. What are the actual dimensions? Can you measure them? 2. Can you provide a picture of the other side?
Which dimensions, the freehub or the tool? Here's a picture of the other side.
Yeah, I saw that after I hit send. On old ass iPhone. Normally it has cone nuts of some sort you take off on the disc side to access the other side. Typically just an Allen to remove the free hub body and you just buy a new one for $20ish.
How do you stop the axle from spinning to undo the cone nut on the disc side? Also, FYI this isn't a high end free hub. Don't know how it would undo with an Allen key, it would would have to be bigger than a 10mm.
Grab each end with a pair of pliers and twist and try to pull apart. Are there any wrench flats on the non drive side? If so then you pull drive side off and then it is a typically a large Allen to undo the freehub and a cone wrench on disc side. Typically a 17mm.
Help, please. I'm trying to replace my freewheel bearings. Because its a two notch lock ring I thought the park tool FR-2 would fit. I bought it and it doesn't fit. After measuring the freewheel I found out the tool is around 6 mm smaller and the prongs are too thick. Does anyone know how to get to the bearings? thanks
1. What are the actual dimensions? Can you measure them? 2. Can you provide a picture of the other side?
Which dimensions, the freehub or the tool? Here's a picture of the other side.
The distance between the 2 slots and the width of the slots
I see cone wrench flats on that other end. Remove and investigate
The cheap no-name rear hub that came on my Moose fatbike took a 12mm allen key inserted from the non-drive side and the freehub was a bear to remove (I mounted the allen key in my vise and rotated the wheel, rotation may be opposite what you expect!). I have had other freehubs that the allen key was inserted from the drive end, same deal. In my case I actually went back to Moose and they sent me out a brand new hub (cheap too, so hub was definitely not high quality) which I scavenged the freehub from, I couldn't find a manufacturer for the hub or a freehub that fit. My particular hub was loose bearings with cones/cups, same with the freehub.
After I swapped my freehub, I built a tool from a socket to fit those two internal flats in the freehub (cut socket with a dremel tool to fit) and disassembled the worn one so I could have a look at what failed inside. It wasn't the bearings making noise but the flat 'race' that the bearings rolled on that had become mangled.
Grab each end with a pair of pliers and twist and try to pull apart. Are there any wrench flats on the non drive side? If so then you pull drive side off and then it is a typically a large Allen to undo the freehub and a cone wrench on disc side. Typically a 17mm.
Thanks, this actually worked. Though I did hesitate grabbing my axle with pliers because I didn't want to damage the threads. My free hub appears to take a 15mm allen key, (it's for a gravel bike not MTB). I tried my improvised version using a bolt with a 15mm head but the lock ring/nut is to tight for galvanized steel.
Recently rebuilt my 2010 Rockshox Tora 318, getting about 35-40% sag compared to about 25% before. Anybody got any ideas? Working theory is the U-turn was not fully extended when I put the lowers back on, creating a vacuum when I extended it to max travel.
Hi All looking at converting a second hand tourer to flat bar, my question is, is there a flat bar shifter option for 9 speed sora?
I'm guessing all 9 speed stuff is the same pull ratio? as I used to run 9 speed road cassttes on my 4X race bikes with cross MTB/Road parts an cross branding too
Thanks all
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/microshift-marvo-lt-m859-2-3x9-spd-xpress-shifters I'm guessing these are a straight fit
Recently rebuilt my 2010 Rockshox Tora 318, getting about 35-40% sag compared to about 25% before. Anybody got any ideas? Working theory is the U-turn was not fully extended when I put the lowers back on, creating a vacuum when I extended it to max travel.
Can check that theory by sliding a zip tie past the wiper seal on both sides and extending the fork fully.
Hi All looking at converting a second hand tourer to flat bar, my question is, is there a flat bar shifter option for 9 speed sora?
I'm guessing all 9 speed stuff is the same pull ratio? as I used to run 9 speed road cassttes on my 4X race bikes with cross MTB/Road parts an cross branding too
Thanks all
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/microshift-marvo-lt-m859-2-3x9-spd-xpress-shifters I'm guessing these are a straight fit
MicroShift if I’m not mistaken will not fit. Any Shimano brand flat bar 9 speed shifter should fit as all 9 speed Shimano uses a 1.7 cable pull.
It's ok to use a bit of fork oil on my dropper stanchion aye? I've just been putting a small smudge on before a ride using the residual new oil from a fork service.