It's ok to use a bit of fork oil on my dropper stanchion aye? I've just been putting a small smudge on before a ride using the residual new oil from a fork service.
Wipe off the excess after a few clean cycles at home. This is a nice way to "oil the seal".
You'd also be fine not doing that, you've done a fork service so you're totally capable of doing a dropper service and judging when that needs done!
It's ok to use a bit of fork oil on my dropper stanchion aye? I've just been putting a small smudge on before a ride using the residual new oil from a fork service.
Shouldn’t hurt much. Is the dropper sticky? Most droppers you can unscrew the collar and just wipe it clean and put some fresh slickoleum in and that usually makes it much smoother and a bit more permanent
Shouldn’t hurt much. Is the dropper sticky? Most droppers you can unscrew the collar and just wipe it clean and put some fresh slickoleum in and that usually makes it much smoother and a bit more permanent
hey, no it's not sticky but a while ago it must have dried out because it grabbed the seal and pushed it up, I managed to shove the thing back in and put some oil on it, no issues now though. I do actually have some $lickoleum now, might just be time for a service.
It's an Ascend Brand X externally routed 27.2mm post btw, I've never had it apart.
Wipe off the excess after a few clean cycles at home. This is a nice way to "oil the seal".
You'd also be fine not doing that, you've done a fork service so you're totally capable of doing a dropper service and judging when that needs done!
sorry I didn't even see your comment! Yep I wipe it clean so the dust and stuff doesn't build up. I'm quite keen to service this thing, apparently there are service kits with brass pins and stuff.
i just bought a 2023 giant reign e bike, it comes with a 205x62.5mm air shock and i want to put my 205x65 coil shock in, i know it fits i tried already. what im curious about is how much does it increase the rear travel of the bike?
If the relationship of shock travel to wheel travel is the same, you will go from 160mm to 166.4mm. Math lesson: 160 divided by 62.5= 2.56. So stock 62.5x2.56=160. 65x2.56=166.4 Kinematics may change the exact amount.
If the relationship of shock travel to wheel travel is the same, you will go from 160mm to 166.4mm. Math lesson: 160 divided by 62.5= 2.56. So stock 62.5x2.56=160. 65x2.56=166.4 Kinematics may change the exact amount.
Potentially important caveat (depending on how exactly you test-fitted it): You need to try it at full compression and make sure the rear tire doesn't hit the frame, saddle, or anything else (with extra margin for frame flex). At full extension, any two shocks with the same eye-to-eye will fit, but increasing the stroke length means you gotta check what happens at bottom-out.
Hey, I scratched my stanchion on a fox 36 performance and I just saw a video explaining how I can fix it with epoxy resin and hardener. Can I use black nail polish instead?
Hey, I scratched my stanchion on a fox 36 performance and I just saw a video explaining how I can fix it with epoxy resin and hardener. Can I use black nail polish instead?
How tight should the fluid/bleed port on the top of Shimano brake levers be to open?
I'm just fitting some brand new Deore M6120, went to do an initial bleed on the first one and the fluid port is so tight it feels like its starting to strip the allen head instead of opening - surely that can't be right?
How tight should the fluid/bleed port on the top of Shimano brake levers be to open?
I'm just fitting some brand new Deore M6120, went to do an initial bleed on the first one and the fluid port is so tight it feels like its starting to strip the allen head instead of opening - surely that can't be right?
Make sure it’s the right screw, I don’t believe those have multiple but brakes like tektros and trps have a couple screws, but only one is the bleed screw. I’ve seen them really tight before unnecessarily so. Make sure you use a good Allen and that it’s fully seated into the bolt.
Grab each end with a pair of pliers and twist and try to pull apart. Are there any wrench flats on the non drive side? If so then you pull drive side off and then it is a typically a large Allen to undo the freehub and a cone wrench on disc side. Typically a 17mm.
Thanks, this actually worked. Though I did hesitate grabbing my axle with pliers because I didn't want to damage the threads. My free hub appears to take a 15mm allen key, (it's for a gravel bike not MTB). I tried my improvised version using a bolt with a 15mm head but the lock ring/nut is to tight for galvanized steel.
It's a Novatec D142SB-X12 hub. Should be a 14mm bolt on the inside for the freehub. It's a fixed freehub which you can't replace the pawls in as it's quite a cheap hub. Better off buying a full freehub which is the S1 model from Novatec