Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
flag jesses-g
Posted: Oct 3, 2023 at 10:52 Quote
radatabs wrote:
jesses-g wrote:
whattheheel wrote:
Grab each end with a pair of pliers and twist and try to pull apart. Are there any wrench flats on the non drive side? If so then you pull drive side off and then it is a typically a large Allen to undo the freehub and a cone wrench on disc side. Typically a 17mm.
Thanks, this actually worked. Though I did hesitate grabbing my axle with pliers because I didn't want to damage the threads. My free hub appears to take a 15mm allen key, (it's for a gravel bike not MTB). I tried my improvised version using a bolt with a 15mm head but the lock ring/nut is to tight for galvanized steel.

It's a Novatec D142SB-X12 hub. Should be a 14mm bolt on the inside for the freehub. It's a fixed freehub which you can't replace the pawls in as it's quite a cheap hub. Better off buying a full freehub which is the S1 model from Novatec
Thanks for the info, do you know if there's a better option, something more durable and with better engagement? I know I could just get a new hub but I don't have that money. Also, when I google 'fixed freehub' I come up with fixie hubs. Are you sure it's a called a fixed freehub?
flag Gravelben
O+
Posted: Oct 3, 2023 at 14:20 Quote
kiranseligman wrote:
Gravelben wrote:
How tight should the fluid/bleed port on the top of Shimano brake levers be to open?

I'm just fitting some brand new Deore M6120, went to do an initial bleed on the first one and the fluid port is so tight it feels like its starting to strip the allen head instead of opening - surely that can't be right?

Make sure it’s the right screw, I don’t believe those have multiple but brakes like tektros and trps have a couple screws, but only one is the bleed screw. I’ve seen them really tight before unnecessarily so. Make sure you use a good Allen and that it’s fully seated into the bolt.

Thanks, yes was using a good allen key (and tried with multitool as well) fully seated and there is only one screw. It was so tight that it was flexing the tool and the lever mount without releasing.

If I can't get it undone (or burr the allen head trying) I guess I will take it back to the shop and make it their problem, bit of a nuisance though.
flag bishopsmike
O+
Posted: Oct 3, 2023 at 19:07 Quote
I've had those little 2mm brake reservoir screws be silly tight before too. Definitely flexing the Allen key. I don't over tighten them, so there might be something in their nature that they're just difficult to unscrew. But I've always been able to get it moving before stripping the head or damaging the allen key.
flag leftypumpkin
O+
Posted: Oct 4, 2023 at 7:36 Quote
bishopsmike wrote:
I've had those little 2mm brake reservoir screws be silly tight before too. Definitely flexing the Allen key. I don't over tighten them, so there might be something in their nature that they're just difficult to unscrew. But I've always been able to get it moving before stripping the head or damaging the allen key.

I've had them get insanely tight too. I did strip out the head on one and attacked it with easy-outs before realizing I could just use a pair of channel-lock pliers on the rim of the screw to bust it loose.
flag toddnzmtb
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 13:00 Quote
My XT reservoir bolts are always wicked tight even though I only nip them up.
flag Gravelben
O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 13:32 Quote
Thanks for the feedback, at least I'm not going crazy! (at least in that regard)

I might try pliers/vice-grips on the rim of the screw.

I assume you can get replacement screws if you do strip out the head? as it seems to be a common issue.
flag freestyIAM
O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 13:44 Quote
Gravelben wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, at least I'm not going crazy! (at least in that regard)

I might try pliers/vice-grips on the rim of the screw.

I assume you can get replacement screws if you do strip out the head? as it seems to be a common issue.

Yes, you can get replacement bleedscrews from Shimano, surprisingly.
flag toddnzmtb
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 15:04 Quote
Something I've not tried but I might do now is to undo the caliper bleed port and see if it's still tight up the top [I mean while I'm messing with just about everything else to do with my brakes I may as well]
flag tseboe
O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 18:21 Quote
New shifter cable and housing is worse…shifting is stiff.

2021 Gen5 Trek Fuel EX 9.7 [stock]
SLX Shifter
XT Derailleur

My son had a mechanical in race pre-ride (housing, ferrule, and cable kinked at rear derailleur) so had an on-site mechanic replace the cable and housing. He immediately complained that shifting was stiff and it took a lot of force to downshift.

Can’t see any kinks. I have the identical bike and it looks like it’s routed the same.

Any thoughts?
flag naptime
Posted: Oct 5, 2023 at 19:54 Quote
Gravelben wrote:
Thanks for the feedback, at least I'm not going crazy! (at least in that regard)

I might try pliers/vice-grips on the rim of the screw.

I assume you can get replacement screws if you do strip out the head? as it seems to be a common issue.

Try an RC car type Allen tool. They're more like a screw driver zero flex in them
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Oct 6, 2023 at 3:16 Quote
tseboe wrote:
New shifter cable and housing is worse…shifting is stiff.

2021 Gen5 Trek Fuel EX 9.7 [stock]
SLX Shifter
XT Derailleur

My son had a mechanical in race pre-ride (housing, ferrule, and cable kinked at rear derailleur) so had an on-site mechanic replace the cable and housing. He immediately complained that shifting was stiff and it took a lot of force to downshift.

Can’t see any kinks. I have the identical bike and it looks like it’s routed the same.

Any thoughts?

Could be loads of things, my first thought is that the inner cable may not be mounted correctly inside the shifter. I'd pull the inner fully off of the bike then refit. See if the problem persists.
flag naptime
Posted: Oct 6, 2023 at 6:10 Quote
Very simple to undo the cable an see if the inner moves freely an while at it see if there's any squashing of the outer cable in the ferrule at each end , while undone the shifter should work freely.

If not that I would look if the mech was damaged at the same time, remove the wheel an see if the mech shifts ok.
flag freestyIAM
O+
Posted: Oct 6, 2023 at 6:34 Quote
naptime wrote:
Very simple to undo the cable an see if the inner moves freely an while at it see if there's any squashing of the outer cable in the ferrule at each end , while undone the shifter should work freely.

If not that I would look if the mech was damaged at the same time, remove the wheel an see if the mech shifts ok.

Ya my bet is the housing is crimped somewhere.
flag toddnzmtb
Posted: Oct 6, 2023 at 15:28 Quote
I'm a chain waxer and would like to keep track of which chain is which by marking them somehow.

Any kind of marker pen is out because it'll get washed off, can I scratch the chain to mark it?
Just a small 1, 2 possibly just on the end link.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2023. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.026408
Mobile Version of Website