Ya, if you have a synthetic that is intended to take the place of mineral oil it will absolutely work. But it has to be intended to be used in place of mineral oil, not just a fluid that is the same weight/viscosity.
^ If you have old brakes I guess you can test it! Haha, all I heard is that they aren't suppose to be mixed. If you flush the old stuff out first, then use synthetic, I really don't see a problem, BUT, I've never tried synthetic and don't know the effects.
So what is the big difference between Hydra M-Oil and Synthetic, beside one of them being synthetic, etc. Ingredients? You already said viscosity is the similar.
Ya, thats it, most likely the synthetic will perform better. I mean look at automotive oil, you can amsoil full synthetic oil that goes 25-50,000 miles, A normal oil change is what 3-5000? As long as its engineered to replace mineral oil (So it has the same properties and tolerances that way it is compatible with seals and lines) it should be fine, and yes you should definitely flush brakes before you switch. You technically can mix synthetic and non synthetic, but it isn't good as the chemical make up is different so they don't really mix and will almost guarantee degraded performance.
Thanks! I will archive this post and give it a shot on an old set of deores I have. If things go well I plan on doing my saints for a more responsive feel.
Thank you for reading. I like writing articles like this haha . And, I already did this to my M810 Saint Brakes, front/back. I would place the difference at around 5-10% increase of brake lock time/snappy feel. I know some people report great feedback and others a more mild performance gain. It depends on a variety of factors but knowing; 1) paying for less, 2) auto-grade, light weight M-Oil, 3) Temperature factor, are all positives! The temperature part is good if you are in the cold/really hot areas which is a major plus. I know some brakes can feel much more sluggish under really heavy cold conditions.
you didn't write this!! wtf!http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikemineraloil.htm
I tested Pentosin in my brakes even before I saw that article. And he is one of the "sources" stated on the paragraph when I researched Pentosin's performance even more.
And guess what?! I did write it....lmao. I have a fat bottle of Pentosin and all I do is refer to the ingredients, info, and temperature range......
After paying $20 for a 500ml bottle of Shimano oil, I decided to look for alternatives for my XT brakes. Found this post and thought this was gold, until I actually replaced my Shimano fluid with Pentosin CHF 7.1.
The performance was extremely sluggish and if you squeeze the lever in rapid succession, the lever would grab much sooner in its travel. This actually seemed like the fluid was heavier/thicker than the Shimano fluid and it wasn't passing through the bleed ports fast enough. I then kept flushing the system with new Pentosin as I thought it could be slight contamination from the Shimano oil, but it didn't help.
After being extremely annoyed, I ordered a liter of Shimano's mineral oil, which only is about $5-10 more than the Pentosin, and my brakes are now back to normal.
Maybe it works well with the Saints, but they would not work with my XT's. Anyone encounter the same issues?
Ya I was surprised by it too as I've heard it working for so many people. I tested the weight by pouring the pentosin slowly into a bottle with shimano m-oil and the pentosin sat below the shimano m-oil. This proved, to me at least, that it was a heavier oil.
I have an 93 Audi and a 99 Mercedes wagon so I've come across the Pentosin 7.1 and 11s issue. According to Audi, which are very particular about their oils, the older mineral based 7.1 can be mixed with the newer synthetic 11s. They even use the same part number -- G00200. On my bottle it reads CHF 11s. On earlier bottles, t'was CHF 7.1.
So although as a general rule you should never mix hydraulic oils as the additives can react this is not the case here.
Decide for yourself. If its good enough for Porsche-Audi engineers it is good enough for my TREK 6500.
---------------- Can you mix mineral based CHF 7.1 Audi hydraulic fluid with synthetic CHF 11S or CHF 202 Audi hydraulic fluid?
There has been a good measure of controversy over this question. Here is what our own experience shows. Over the last decade we've had no compatibility problems mixing the CHF 7.1 non-synthetic mineral base fluid and the CHF 11S synthetic based Audi hydraulic fluid. No problems with our own vehicles and no problems with our customers vehicles. Our success in mixing the 2 Audi hydraulic fluids coincides with the Audi tech bulletin 48-89-T07 issued in November 1989. It states "The new [synthetic Pentosin 11S] and old hydraulic fluid [non-synthetic Pentosin 7.1] can be mixed if necessary ... the part number [remains] unchanged." So according to Audi, you can mix the 2 Audi hydraulic fluids. Even though the composition of the fluid changed (CHF 11S synthetic mineral oil vs CHF 7.1 non-synthetic mineral oil), Audi didn't even change the part number. All 1990 - on Audi models have come filled from the factory with the synthetic CHF 11S Audi hydraulic fluid (G002000). Please Note: Never mix generic hydraulic fluid or other fluid with the CHF 7.1 or CHF 11S Audi hydraulic fluid (G002000). If you or someone else did, flush the Audi hydraulic fluid as described below.
I completely replaced the genuine magura blood in my 07 Louise BAT at the beginning of the season with Pentosin LHF 7.1. Immediately after I noticed a difference, they felt a little heavier and progressive, which is something I like. They did help modulation, almost every mm of lever pull makes a difference. So far they have been flawless, no leaks, no fading, feeling is the same as the first day, I would totally recommend doing this especially when you think it's more than half as expensive. I paid 16$ for a litre at my job (I'm a tech at a BMW dealership and as someone said earlier, german manufacturers use this fluid a lot for multiple uses) compared to the 35$ a liter for Magura blood. For comparison, I went to Mont Sainte Anne a couple weeks ago, I did a fresh bleed of entirely new DOT 4 fluid + new pads on my Formula The One(which are extremely powerful but feel like an On/Off switch) on my newly acquired bike and my friend used my other bike with the Louises on, still on early season bleed. I had to rebleed my Formulas when we came back but the Louises are still going strong, without any difference in performance. Great tip, safe, easy, cheap and in my case it outperformed original.