10 speed. If you are buying components there is not much point buying top end 9 speed now. When you need to replace anything in a couple of years time it will have to be a budget part. To keep with good quality components you will end up buying a 10 speed group set and binning most of your 9 speed stuff...
personally I´d choose trigger over grip shift any day all day. also I think 10speed is pretty nice if you are running only 1 chainring. Yeah sure x0 rear mech has some nice looks, but I´d definetely prefer the other option!
Ok, trigger over grip, 10 over 9 speed, and I guess the only other concern is this; Does the derailleur cage length really matter that much in a 1x10 setup?
EDIT
Also, which is better to have be the higher-end item if you MUST mix and match series? Shifter higher, derailleur lower, or vice versa?
a lot of people say derailleur over shifter, as a lot of bikes come like this from the manufacturer, but personally I prefer a higher quality shifter, as it feels better, and pulls more consistantly
Type 2 without a doubt. On a 1x system it makes a huge difference. And get a short cage if you are 1x as well. And if the extra price scares you, go to X9. I haven't heard of X9 rear derailleurs causing play. X9's are very reliable and arguably the best bang for your buck.
Cool. I check tons of sites from all over the world, and am a rabid Amazon shopper, so I will always buy for price when it comes to high-end stuff, since it's fairly easy these days to get a good deal if you really try...
I was of the same opinion regarding the clutch, but I wanted a little verification, since I haven't had this bike geared in its lifetime yet. My 29er hardtail is a standard derailleur, but I don't FR with it at all, so it isn't so much a concern.
I got a Straitline 34t bash ring too, so when this is all set up, I'll give a post worth of pics.
With an 11-36 I'd go with a medium cage, not short cage. You will be able to get the chain short enough that it still has a lot of tension at the small cogs, but the longer cage will allow it to shift the larger cogs nice. With a short cage and that big of a cassette, you'll most likely have a little more slack than ideal in the smaller cogs. Plus a medium cage will handle all the suspension moving if you're putting it on a full suspension bike.
EDIT: Sram Type 2 doesn't use a clutch. They use an overly stiff spring. There is a huge difference. Less maintenance with the Type 2 (compared to Shimano's real clutch system), but you have to push it forward and lock it into place to "disable" it.
Ok, I'll look into the chain path charts for this setup with a short- and mid-cage as well...
Yeah, I was looking at the details and you're right, it's not a "clutch" so much as it is a passive-active retention assist. Or whatever they want to market it as.
This is going on a Ragley Troof, so no suspension to be concerned with. The only reason I want an 11-36 is that I'm out of shape (compared to my old self...), and I want the speed range plus extra climbing ability... I tried a bike w/ a 32t top end, and it won't be enough on this rig... Maybe a 12-36 if I can get the 1070 cassette in that range...
I run 10 speed 11/36 rear and 38 single ring up front with a type 2 X0 rear mech M cage works great for me i do struggle on some really steep uphill bits but what does not kill you makes you stronger well thats the idear anyway . 10 speed is great love it never going back to 9
Cool. I figure I should be good with the 12-36 and the 32t Renthal up front. I'll take some pics of it as it is now, and then after the drivetrain upgrades as well.
It's too cold to ride trails right now... with these temps there should be snow, but Charleston is in a valley, so no dice.
EDIT: That's f*cking hilarious. I went to push post, I looked outside, and flurries are starting to fall. LOL