Manitou dorado service

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Manitou dorado service
Author Message
flag Chuvak
Posted: May 12, 2015 at 5:38 Quote
Happy that this manual still helps Redface
flag freakinbob
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 8:39 Quote
Does somebody know where to get seals/servicekit in europe? thanks
flag Chuvak
Posted: May 20, 2015 at 20:27 Quote
CRC sells seal kit+all O-rings for 42 bucks
flag freakinbob
Posted: May 21, 2015 at 13:11 Quote
Indeed found it after i post it, thanks for the info.
I got another qeustion because i dont wanna spend 100 euros on a fcking clamp block i made meself one with different diameters. Do you know how big the hole in the clamp block needs to be in millimeters?
flag Chuvak
Posted: May 21, 2015 at 16:16 Quote
Honestly, I have no idea. If you have workstand, you need no clamp block to service fork. If not, you need just some alcohol and old tube to open the cartridge. Almost all the other connections can be disassembled without clamps.
flag theloamrangerchannel
O+
Posted: May 26, 2015 at 17:09 Quote
Does anyone know where to buy seals or a full rebuild kit for a Dorado Pro? I can't seem to find a decent source! Considering its the current model that strikes me as being a little ridiculous.

Thanks!
flag Chuvak
Posted: May 27, 2015 at 22:21 Quote
that was just few posts above
flag theloamrangerchannel
O+
Posted: May 28, 2015 at 9:40 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
that was just few posts above

I could not find the kit for the 36mm model on CRC though. I ended up contacting S4 Suspension in Montreal and got everything I needed from there.
flag freakinbob
Posted: May 29, 2015 at 8:23 Quote
Audican. Yesterday I got my full rebuild kit from crc, look better and you will find it.
flag deft-funk
O+
Posted: Jul 8, 2015 at 17:00 Quote
Thanks for the detailed rundown, got a question I can start in another thread if that makes sense but it's about servicing a Dorado damper... Basically what is happening is that the TPC and high speed compression knobs are locked together. Initially, neither would turn but when I pulled the knobs off I saw that the detent springs had warped a little bit on the high speed dial, not allowing the detent balls to go down and therefore not letting h/s compression knob to turn. Flipped the springs upside down which solved that problem, but the TPC is locked on to the h/s compression- I can't turn it independently, so it makes sense that neither knob would turn before I fixed the detent springs.

It's a '14 Dorado, just arrived on a bike I picked up here on PB and the previous owner said he had no idea that was an issue. Makes sense, lots of folks don't mess with compression settings regularly and everything else was good. So, any thoughts on whether this is fixable or if I have to pick up a new damper?

One other note that might be related- there is a little bit (1-2 mm) of vertical play in the hex that the compression dials sit on, enough so that when I went to put the C clip back into place, I had to pull up on the internals with a pair of pliers to get it into the groove. Once the C clip is on there's not play- don't know if this is normal or maybe another symptom of something funky going on.

Thanks, sorry to hijack the thread hope it's relevant enough to what's going on that maybe someone has run across the same problem.
flag Chuvak
Posted: Jul 9, 2015 at 19:18 Quote
hard to say something for sure. you have to disassemble damper, remove compression block ant look trough it. maybe some thread is stoked or any other damages. post photos here if you can.
also, you cam find how to disassemble compression block in dorado service manual at manitoumtb.com
flag ryan-j85
Posted: Nov 24, 2015 at 9:07 Quote
What make oil's did you use?
flag pizzaiolo
O+
Posted: Sep 1, 2016 at 17:04 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
Pull your weel with stanchions all the way out. Do they return inside lowers after you stop pullling? If so, attach pump and pull stanchions out. Detach pump. Check if it returns to full travel. Post here what happens. I will explain then, basing on uour results.

I wasted 3 hours today on my fork and this little snippet saved me.
flag Chuvak
Posted: Sep 1, 2016 at 22:01 Quote
glad this topic still helps))
the reason is that dorado uses unusual POS and NEG air chamber filling system. unlike in RS forks where piston valve or a grind in a stanchion work to equal pressure in both chambers, dorado uses a long rod. you can see the end of this rod in the schradder valve. and it happens that this rod goes wild, loses it position and sometimes this is so hard, that when you pump your fork, only NEG chamber pressurises. luckily we have a guy in Russia, who makes solo air springs for almost all forks, including dorado. this spring works fine like RS factory one, and it has no bugs.
flag kstrongin3
O+
Posted: Jul 19, 2017 at 16:38 Quote
Looks like I am a little late to the party!

I have a Manitou Dorado Expert I am working with and come across a peculiar issue. I was having an issue with the fork's small bump sensitivity. Because of this I went to purchase the TSR top caps and purchased the upgrade kit instead because it included the TSR caps and the IRT.

Before I started this upgrade the fork was fine, it would return to 100% travel but had some ride quality issues. After the upgrade, The fork is buttery smooth and feels amazing. However, after the upgrade was completed the fork seems to return to 100% travel, but when I lift the bars there seems to be ~1/4" of play. What's the deal?

(not sure if this helps, but the rebound side stays at full extension and does not suck in.)

 


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