Manitou dorado service

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Manitou dorado service
Author Message
Posted: Sep 3, 2017 at 17:32 Quote
sorry, long time no visit to PB)
can't say how to deal with it as I have the same stuff (no IVA and TSR). fork has no loss of travel on the trails, but after that there is a little play (as you have) if I lift the bars. I just don't care about it, if to be honest

Posted: Sep 21, 2017 at 15:51 Quote
Hi Mate,

It's been a long time since you have posted that manual, but as you have just written within that topic again and because I am about to service my recently-bought Dorado I will take a chance to ask you few questions.

In the original service manual from Manitou web page they saying that it is required to remove the legs from both the crowns. I believe that it is mandatory to unclamp the upper crown as I need to remove the forks from the frame of course and also these clamps are probably tightening top caps threads. But is it really necessary to loosen the clamps of the lower crown?

Another question is about lubricating air-spring side legs and the air piston. Guys from Manitou are saying that I have to lube the outer diameter and fill the piston cup halfway (i don't understand what does it exactly mean) with a grease and finally apply 30 cc of oil to the upper leg. Within your manual you wrote about applying the oil to the outer leg and into the inner leg as well, nothing about greasing the piston. Do you recommend to use only oil but more than double the volume comparing to original manual (30-40 cc + 10 cc + 30 cc)?

Cheers
Pawel

Posted: Sep 26, 2017 at 23:07 Quote
Proxyone wrote:
Hi Mate,

It's been a long time since you have posted that manual, but as you have just written within that topic again and because I am about to service my recently-bought Dorado I will take a chance to ask you few questions.

In the original service manual from Manitou web page they saying that it is required to remove the legs from both the crowns. I believe that it is mandatory to unclamp the upper crown as I need to remove the forks from the frame of course and also these clamps are probably tightening top caps threads. But is it really necessary to loosen the clamps of the lower crown?

Another question is about lubricating air-spring side legs and the air piston. Guys from Manitou are saying that I have to lube the outer diameter and fill the piston cup halfway (i don't understand what does it exactly mean) with a grease and finally apply 30 cc of oil to the upper leg. Within your manual you wrote about applying the oil to the outer leg and into the inner leg as well, nothing about greasing the piston. Do you recommend to use only oil but more than double the volume comparing to original manual (30-40 cc + 10 cc + 30 cc)?

Cheers
Pawel
Hi, man. about removing the legs from the crowns or removing whole fork as well. as for my fork-i have REALLY tight hole for the shaft in the upper crown. so removing it and, especially fitting back and tightening all the steering stuff is a pain in the ass. here are 2 ways to go:

1) How nice men do: losen upper crown only where it holds legs, losen topcaps, losen lower crown, remove legs and service them. be carefull with stickers, you can tear them off while removing the leg.
2) How lazy fatass (and me sometimes) do: losen upper crown, remove stem (if handlebar does not give you to pull topcap all the way out), remove topcap, remove lower leg, service. that can be easier, maybe faster, but prepare a bucket and a towel as far as all the floor will be covered with oil)


about piston. fresh generation of dorados has a little bit different piston design, but as far as i remember, both have little holes for the oil to lube inner side of the leg, so i see no sense to fill it with grease, espesially if it closes these holes. pour 10cc of oil as recommended, 12-13 will be fine too if you want, but not more. anyway, greasing the glide ring of a piston is a good thing, that is the only place i use grease.
af for oil in the upper leg, 30-40cc is quite enough to let fork operate well till next service.

feel free to ask further questions if you want

Posted: Jan 25, 2018 at 13:48 Quote
Hi guys sorry to post on an old-ish thread but I have the Dorados bran new since last summer not much riding since then and have only only just broken them in but today I noticed oil has been leaking from the Air side and has made it all the way down to the bottom of the leg and pooled there not a lot but I think it was a gradual thing over time as I havn't been the best at keeping things clean recently. I have cleaned it up and will monitor it but is this something that I should be concerned about or could it just be oil that has collected over time from the break in period? At a guess they have had around 25hrs light use since new.

Thanks in advance.

Posted: Jan 26, 2018 at 23:11 Quote
It could be that the oil seal is worn out or damaged which is letting the oil get past.
Or it could just be that there is a bit of dirt / gunk in the seal that is creating a little gap for oil to seep through. I've had leaking seals before that I fixed by removing the lower leg, carefully cleaning the seals, and then putting it all back together again. So if you don't have spare seals handy give that a try.
If the seals are damaged you will need to replace them, which is an easy job. You'll want to get the evil genius II seals as they seal well, last longer and have less stiction than previous seals. (I think those seals are all they produce now)

Posted: Jan 27, 2018 at 9:36 Quote
riderseventy7 wrote:
It could be that the oil seal is worn out or damaged which is letting the oil get past.
Or it could just be that there is a bit of dirt / gunk in the seal that is creating a little gap for oil to seep through. I've had leaking seals before that I fixed by removing the lower leg, carefully cleaning the seals, and then putting it all back together again. So if you don't have spare seals handy give that a try.
If the seals are damaged you will need to replace them, which is an easy job. You'll want to get the evil genius II seals as they seal well, last longer and have less stiction than previous seals. (I think those seals are all they produce now)

Thanks for the reply appreciated Smile

But I can't honestly see it being a seal that's worn already like I said the forks have had very very light use and barely even broken in and from other posters on other forums it's usually the damper side that pisses the oil and not the Air side? I do understand the Air side uses a little oil for lubrication.
On the other hand I did say that I haven't been keeping them the cleanest recently not that they were caked in mud or anything but it might well be that they could do with a strip down and clean, I will try that if it get's worse, I was more curious as to the leak coming from the Air side tbh.

Thanks again Smile

Posted: Aug 7, 2022 at 18:37 Quote
Hi mate,
If you spend your precious time replying to me, I appreciate it.
I live in Scotland/UK and have Manitou Dorado Pro 2018 on my Bergamont Straitline Team 2018 DH bike and oil leaks from the right leg of the fork.

1) Do I need one of the below ones to fix it? all parts are out of stock.
MANITOU DUST SEAL KIT 36 mm for dorado pro (Pre 2021) (141-25239)
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/dust-seal-kit-for-30mm-stanchions-markhor-m30-r7?variant=34554936950829
DORADO COMPLETE REBUILD KIT (141-25995-D)
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/complete-rebuild-kit-dorado

2) Suspension maintenance guide says we need to do below ones in every 50 hours. I ride 50 hours in 2 months. Is it a good idea keep opening the fork in every 2 months?
• REPLACE CASTING SEMI BATH OIL
• LUBRICATE LEG SEALS
• CLEAN AND INSPECT BUSHINGS
• CLEAN AND RE-LUBRICATE AIR PISTON(S)
• CHECK FASTENER TORQUES
• PERFORM AIR CAN SERVICE
• INSPECT SHOCK HARDWARE

3) Service manual recommends us to use Maxima 5wt oil. Which one do you recommend?
Maxima Fork Oil Standard Fortified SAE 5wt 1 Litre Fork Oil
Maxima Bike Plush Suspension Fluid High Performance Sae 5wt 473ml Suspension Fluid

Stravs wrote:
riderseventy7 wrote:
It could be that the oil seal is worn out or damaged which is letting the oil get past.
Or it could just be that there is a bit of dirt / gunk in the seal that is creating a little gap for oil to seep through. I've had leaking seals before that I fixed by removing the lower leg, carefully cleaning the seals, and then putting it all back together again. So if you don't have spare seals handy give that a try.
If the seals are damaged you will need to replace them, which is an easy job. You'll want to get the evil genius II seals as they seal well, last longer and have less stiction than previous seals. (I think those seals are all they produce now)

Thanks for the reply appreciated Smile

But I can't honestly see it being a seal that's worn already like I said the forks have had very very light use and barely even broken in and from other posters on other forums it's usually the damper side that pisses the oil and not the Air side? I do understand the Air side uses a little oil for lubrication.
On the other hand I did say that I haven't been keeping them the cleanest recently not that they were caked in mud or anything but it might well be that they could do with a strip down and clean, I will try that if it get's worse, I was more curious as to the leak coming from the Air side tbh.

Thanks again Smile

Posted: Aug 9, 2022 at 19:18 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
hah, late a bit, had some businesses to do)

don't look at scary background, that's just a temporary workplace, that i had to make out of one of the rooms in the old flat.
all the photos were made by air pump.

okay, let's go.

What we need:

manitou dorado fork

12, 13, 20, 36mm wrenches( you can use big enough adjustable wrench instead of 20 and 36 wrenches)

26mm Socket with ratchet

2mm allen key

5w fork oil

5w/40 full synthetic engine oil

Syringe + 12-13cm tubing on it

old clothes

“Stendec easy glide” fork grease or similar grease

Thread lock fluid

If you change oil first time since purchasing-it is strongly recommended to have an insulating tape and workstand.




1) Remove the fork from the bike and clean it. Remove the leg guards.

2) First let’s deal with the right leg. Turn the rebound knob all the way clockwise and unscrew the top cap with the 36mm wrench. After that, pull it up as far as it allows (doing this will make the inner leg go fully inside the outer leg)
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3) Place a 12mm wrench on the flats of the rebound shaft and use a 36mm wrench to unthread the top cap from the shaft. Once the top cap is unthreaded, remove the rebound knob from the top cap.

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4) Pour the oil and move the shaft towards-backwards to pour the biggest part of it.

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5) Place some paper inside the outer leg from the side of top cap (to avoid oil leakage on the floor) and place the fork upside down. Let’s disassemble the compression adjusters. Unscrew the screw from red low-speed compression adjuster (2mm allen key), remove it (do not lose 2 balls and springs under it). Then Remove the c-clip that holds the knob on using a small flat blade screwdriver or similar tool. Once the c-clip is removed pull the knob up. Be sure to capture the O-ring, 2 detent balls and springs under the knob.

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6) Using 26mm wrench, unscrew the cap on the bottom of the inner leg. Whet it stops to go out of leg, being screwed, pull it and remove the cartridge.

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7)Turn the cartridge upside down and press the shaft several times (I did 20) to remove some of the resting oil.

Cool This step is highly recommended if you change oil first time from purchasing, or you got really dirty oil poured.

Remove the oil from the wide side of cartridge, using ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Wrap it with the insulating tape completely. If your tape is not wide as on photo, make one big tape list, attaching 15-20cm pieces one to other. Place this list in your workstand’s clamp (glued side-to clamps), place a cartridge (with taped side of course) and clamp it pretty strong. Be careful, do not make OMGINSANE power of clamping to avoid cartridge damaging. All this stuff needs to avoid cartridge spinning during unscrewing the cap on it. You can find any other ways to do this, that are suitable for u. Now, using 20mm wrench, unscrew the cap from the shaft side. Great, you did it! If not-keep trying. Now pull out the inner part of cartridge. This will allow you to remove ALL the resting oil. And there will be pretty noticeable amount of it. In case of first service-you will avoid mixing your cool, fresh and shiny new oil with the bull pee, that was placed in the fork by manufacturer (seriously, the factory oil has an awful quality). In case of dirty poured oil-you remove all the contaminates from the cartridge (do not forget to clean the cartridge, using cool, fresh and shiny © oil). Big Grin

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9) After removing the oil, assemble the cartridge, remove the tape.

10) Clean the inner leg inside and outside, clean the outer leg inside, grease the seals and dust wipers with stendec grease (or similar), insert the lower leg into the outer leg all the way inside. Place the cartridge inside the inner leg, screw the 26mm cap (you removed it at step 6), pull the shaft all the way out, assemble all the compression adjusters (you can grease the o-rings a but, to make the adjusters rotating more easily). Return the top cap to it’s place.

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11) Make sure that the shaft pulled all the way out and the inner leg inserted in the outer leg all the way inside. Fill the outer leg with 5w fork oil until it closes the cartridge, after that add a bit more oil (30-40ml). Now move the shaft up and down. This is the procedure of cartridge bleeding . You will hear and feel squelching air bubbles, the oil level will be decreasing, do not let the cartridge get out of oil. Move the shaft as far as you can down and all the way up. Do the next way: 5-6 up-down moves of shaft-> check the oil level-> if you see the cartridge out of the oil,add some more and repeat. Soon it will be pretty hard to move the shaft, it will move slowly and smoothly (we screwed the reboud all the way clockwise, remember?) AND you will not hear and/or feel bubbles. That means that the cartridge has been bleeded completely. After this, measure the oil level. It must be 110mm from the top of outer leg. The inner leg must be fully compressed into the outer leg when measuring and the shaft must be pulled all the way out. If the is more than 110mm, add some more oil, of less-remove some with the syringe and tube.

12) Great. You’ve made the biggest part of the work, and it’s almost done.




13) Now let’s service the air spring. RELEASE THE AIR FROM THE AIR SPRING. Remove the top cap, using the 36mm wrench. Place a 13mm wrench on the flats of the rebound shaft and use a 36mm wrench to unthread the top cap from the shaft. Remove it from the shaft.

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14) take the inner leg out of the outer leg. Remove all the oil from it’s surface, using ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Hold the leg really tight with one hand, take the 20mm wrench in the other hand and remove a cap from the top of the leg (the cap is tightened not very strongly, but the power of one hand can be not enough. Ask friend for help or lightly clamp the leg in the workstand). Remove the air piston (avoid the oil splashes).

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15) Clean the air piston and the inner leg from both inside and outside. Clean the outer leg from inside. Fill the gaps between the black O-ring and the edges of the seat place for it with stendec grease or similar. Remove the excesses.

16) Add a small amount (3-4cc, not more) of full synthetic 5w/40 oil in the inner leg. Now lubricate the black O-ring and the blue flat O-ring (I don’t know what material it is made of) with the same 5w/40 oil and insert the piston it the inner leg. Move it inside a bit and then add 10cc of the same synthetic 5w/40 oil again.

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17) Screw the cap, that you removed at step 14, pull the shaft all the way out.

1Cool Grease the seals and dust wipers with stendec or similar grease, insert the inner leg in the outer leg, add 30cc of synthetic 5w/40 oil in the outer leg, attach the top cap back to shaft and screw in on it’s place. Wash the fork to remove all the oil from it’s surface, or just wipe it with ethanol or isopropyl alcohol.

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19) After that, attach the leg guards back to fork. Do not forget to apply a drop of thread lock fluid in every screw. Do not overtighten. Cracks around the screws, experienced with many customers, appear because the metal insert is a bit shorter, than the hole length, so the overtighten will cause cracks. Remove some plastic on the inner end of the hole to equal it's length to the insert length. It will solve the crack problem. Look the picture below.

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20) Great job! The fork is serviced, happy and ready to hit the mountains.

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Thanks for reading! Feel free to ask any questions, tell about mistakes and make notices.
Pleas notify me about any mistakes or mistypes in the text.


Hi mate,
This is great information. Pictures do not work on my pc. Therefore, I prepared a PDF with the information you provided and added your name as a footerSmile But I could not find a way to upload it here in Pinkbike.

I have found the below video online which is the same thing as your manual. Did you have a chance to check it?

https://youtu.be/q5XWb6S2Uqw

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-manitou-dorado-rebuild-2011.html

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 1:04 Quote
Hey. Sorry for long reply, haven't check PB for a long time. Maxima is a good oil. Plush vesrion is the best they can offer. So if you can reach it, plush is a best choice. Silkolene and motul are good too.

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 1:14 Quote
Suddenly i have found my manual at the russian region of drive2 website xD and all the pictures work. Check it here https://www.drive2.ru/b/482056135260504274/

Lol, that was the time i was renting a flat. Looks so untidy) anyway there are all the pictures i used in this manual, if you want to make a pdf, you can just check an order (i don't think you speak russian)) and place them into the text. I'll place a reminder for myself to fix this thread tomorrow at work, no PC at home.

I have pretty famous bike workshop in my city nowdays, so i can give you instagram link in pm (not sure it is allowed to do it here) or answer some questions.


Btw that dorado is still with me. Saving money for a 2021pro

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 13:55 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
Hey. Sorry for long reply, haven't check PB for a long time. Maxima is a good oil. Plush vesrion is the best they can offer. So if you can reach it, plush is a best choice. Silkolene and motul are good too.
I am confused in something. You and also video on pinkbike says I need to use different oils for left leg and right leg such as 5w fork oil, 5w/40 full synthetic engine oil.
May I use maxima plush for both legs or should I buy different oils for left leg and right leg? If different oil is needed, can you tell me which one?

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 16:24 Quote
Yep, two different types. the reason is in difference in properties. Fork oil (any kind of it) has pretty poor adhesion, lubricating properties and leaves pretty thin film on a surface in comparison to engine oil. But it has anti-foam additives and good viscosity index. There are so many subtleties about oils and greases that are used in forks, but if we speak about dorados, it is simple: fork oil in damper side, engine oil in air spring and spring lowers. So yes, you need two types if it, one for damping and one for lubricating bushings and o-rings in spring side internals

Posted: Aug 28, 2022 at 19:39 Quote
pictures are fixed. as far as nowadays i own a surgery room-like workshop, it hurts to look at where i had to service my dorado at that moment, but even those pictures are better than no pictures.


kstrongin3 wrote:
Looks like I am a little late to the party!

I have a Manitou Dorado Expert I am working with and come across a peculiar issue. I was having an issue with the fork's small bump sensitivity. Because of this I went to purchase the TSR top caps and purchased the upgrade kit instead because it included the TSR caps and the IRT.

Before I started this upgrade the fork was fine, it would return to 100% travel but had some ride quality issues. After the upgrade, The fork is buttery smooth and feels amazing. However, after the upgrade was completed the fork seems to return to 100% travel, but when I lift the bars there seems to be ~1/4" of play. What's the deal?

(not sure if this helps, but the rebound side stays at full extension and does not suck in.)

Make sure you fork is fully extended whan you pump it. In the zone where fork is nearly full way out, pressure in pos and neg chamber is almost equal, so here the friction on bushings and o-rings comes into play. So keep your fork extended while pressurising and pumps removing.

this bug exists in most air forks, more or less. my dorado has it too, but 1/4" is a little bit too much, i have about 3 millimetres.

Posted: Aug 29, 2022 at 11:45 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
Yep, two different types. the reason is in difference in properties. Fork oil (any kind of it) has pretty poor adhesion, lubricating properties and leaves pretty thin film on a surface in comparison to engine oil. But it has anti-foam additives and good viscosity index. There are so many subtleties about oils and greases that are used in forks, but if we speak about dorados, it is simple: fork oil in damper side, engine oil in air spring and spring lowers. So yes, you need two types if it, one for damping and one for lubricating bushings and o-rings in spring side internals
Thanks mate,
So can we say;
Left leg:
https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/Maxima-Bike-Plush-Suspension-Fluid-High-Performance-Sae-5wt-473ml-Suspension-Fluid/d57207281.htm

Right leg: https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/Maxima-Fork-Oil-Standard-Fortified-SAE-5wt-1-Litre-Fork-Oil/d57136474.htm?colour=ork+Oil+Standard+Fortified+%28SAE+5wt%29+1+Litre

Posted: Aug 29, 2022 at 17:16 Quote
No, on the both links there are fork oils.

Use this for damper (right leg)
https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/Maxima-Bike-Plush-Suspension-Fluid-High-Performance-Sae-5wt-473ml-Suspension-Fluid/d57207281.htm

And for the left leg with spring just ask for 5w-30 or 5w-40 fully synthetic engine oil in a nearest store that sells stuff for cars. Buy one litre from any manufacturer you want. But if you want to order it from that web store, take this one
https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/MOTUL-7100-5w40-4t-Engine-Oil/d57234224.htm?colour=Clear


 
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