Manitou dorado service

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Manitou dorado service
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flag TravellerSeko
Posted: Aug 30, 2022 at 3:19 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
No, on the both links there are fork oils.

Use this for damper (right leg)
https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/Maxima-Bike-Plush-Suspension-Fluid-High-Performance-Sae-5wt-473ml-Suspension-Fluid/d57207281.htm

And for the left leg with spring just ask for 5w-30 or 5w-40 fully synthetic engine oil in a nearest store that sells stuff for cars. Buy one litre from any manufacturer you want. But if you want to order it from that web store, take this one
https://www.dirtbikebitz.com/MOTUL-7100-5w40-4t-Engine-Oil/d57234224.htm?colour=Clear

Cheers pal,
this has been very useful for me. By the way, I've learnt my fork has an MRD kit which I didn't knowSmile

As we talked I'll buy Maxima Bike Plush Suspension Fluid for the right leg and MOTUL 7100 5w40 4t Engine Oil for left leg.

Have you seen below one as well? It's also recommended in the forums.

Castrol Power1 5W-40 Racing 4T Motorcycle 4 Stroke - 1Ltr | Euro Car Parts
flag Chuvak
Posted: Aug 30, 2022 at 9:44 Quote
If we are talking about engine oil for fork lowers - honestly i see no difference in manufacturers. For my workshop i buy inexpencive engine synthetic 5w30 oil. The thing is conditions inside a fork are completely different from ones in engine, so any oil that meets requirements above will work well: create a thick film on bushes and reduce friction.

About you told your choice in second paragraph. I'm a bit confused or just got you wrong. Let me clear it.

Right leg. There is our damper, rebound and compression knobs. Here you need to use !!!fork oil!!!. Maxima plush 5wt is a great choice. No engine oil here!

Left leg. Here we have an air spring. And here is a place for engine oil (inside spring and in lowers). No fork oil here!

The reason is 5w-xx engine oil and 5w fork oil are TOTALLY different. Don't let number 5 in both names confuse you. They have totally different viscosity. 5w fork oil is usually 13-16Cst, depends on manufacturer, and engine one 5w-xx is about 55-75Cst, also depends on manufacturer). Also they have completely different properties and additives. For example engine oil will produce some foam as fork works, unlike fork oil. They are designed for different purposes. There are a lot of other things, but just remember that these oils are completely different even if they both have same numbers in name, and you shouldn't compare those numbers on the bottle.
So for dorado: fork oil for damper side, engine oil in spring side.

Also, just in case: do not use engine oil in air springs of modern forks with non-inverted design. Pos and neg chambers are being connected with the notch inside the uppers in certain position to equalise pressure. So liquid oil will be just blown in neg chamber. As a result - bad sensitivity to small bumps and lack of lubrication for the o-ring or x-ring or piston spring. Use special greases there like pm600, slick honey and similar. Also there are some exclusions for air springs with steel neg spring, but it can be a long lecture)
flag TravellerSeko
Posted: Aug 30, 2022 at 10:34 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
If we are talking about engine oil for fork lowers - honestly i see no difference in manufacturers. For my workshop i buy inexpencive engine synthetic 5w30 oil. The thing is conditions inside a fork are completely different from ones in engine, so any oil that meets requirements above will work well: create a thick film on bushes and reduce friction.

About you told your choice in second paragraph. I'm a bit confused or just got you wrong. Let me clear it.

Right leg. There is our damper, rebound and compression knobs. Here you need to use !!!fork oil!!!. Maxima plush 5wt is a great choice. No engine oil here!

Left leg. Here we have an air spring. And here is a place for engine oil (inside spring and in lowers). No fork oil here!

The reason is 5w-xx engine oil and 5w fork oil are TOTALLY different. Don't let number 5 in both names confuse you. They have totally different viscosity. 5w fork oil is usually 13-16Cst, depends on manufacturer, and engine one 5w-xx is about 55-75Cst, also depends on manufacturer). Also they have completely different properties and additives. For example engine oil will produce some foam as fork works, unlike fork oil. They are designed for different purposes. There are a lot of other things, but just remember that these oils are completely different even if they both have same numbers in name, and you shouldn't compare those numbers on the bottle.
So for dorado: fork oil for damper side, engine oil in spring side.

Also, just in case: do not use engine oil in air springs of modern forks with non-inverted design. Pos and neg chambers are being connected with the notch inside the uppers in certain position to equalise pressure. So liquid oil will be just blown in neg chamber. As a result - bad sensitivity to small bumps and lack of lubrication for the o-ring or x-ring or piston spring. Use special greases there like pm600, slick honey and similar. Also there are some exclusions for air springs with steel neg spring, but it can be a long lecture)


Dear MASTER CHUVAK
You are right, it is my mistake. Copy paste errorSmile
Information you provided is invaluable for me. I appreciate your detailed explanation. You cleared all the doubts.
When it comes to my question, I just wanted to know if you have seen Castro oil I mentioned above. But anyway I’ll buy Motul, they are exactly the same priceSmile
I also found below video useful but he uses only one oilSmile I’ll buy 2 different oils after your great lesson

https://youtu.be/q5XWb6S2Uqw
flag Chuvak
Posted: Aug 30, 2022 at 17:36 Quote
No problems, you're welcome. If you will have any questions, feel free to send a message.

Btw, remembered one thing. Before detaching damper topcap from the shaft, turn the rebound all the way clockwise. The thing is rebound knob has an o-ring and it can work like a clutch between knob and topcap. As a result-knob rotates with topcap while you unscrew it and it can happen that it goes all the way to "-" and if topcap is not removed yet, you can accidentally break rebound rod pusher. So rebound all the way clickwise and make sure your topcap goes smooth until completely unscrewed.

Here is a similar case i had to fix.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX-KbWPIW1r/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

You can copy-paste text to Google translate. I'm sure it will be crappy translation, but you'll get the point
flag TravellerSeko
Posted: Sep 3, 2022 at 5:31 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
No problems, you're welcome. If you will have any questions, feel free to send a message.

Btw, remembered one thing. Before detaching damper topcap from the shaft, turn the rebound all the way clockwise. The thing is rebound knob has an o-ring and it can work like a clutch between knob and topcap. As a result-knob rotates with topcap while you unscrew it and it can happen that it goes all the way to "-" and if topcap is not removed yet, you can accidentally break rebound rod pusher. So rebound all the way clickwise and make sure your topcap goes smooth until completely unscrewed.

Here is a similar case i had to fix.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CX-KbWPIW1r/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

You can copy-paste text to Google translate. I'm sure it will be crappy translation, but you'll get the point
Again me with another question section 5 on your manual or manitou manual it is said to remove compression adjusters. Is it really necessary? I can’t see it on below videos during the oil change.


https://youtu.be/q5XWb6S2Uqw

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-manitou-dorado-rebuild-2011.html
flag Chuvak
Posted: Sep 3, 2022 at 18:50 Quote
It's needed to remove the damper from the leg and work with it. Of course you can drain oil without this procedure, but there will be left some remains you can't rid off
flag TravellerSeko
Posted: Sep 8, 2022 at 3:28 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
It's needed to remove the damper from the leg and work with it. Of course you can drain oil without this procedure, but there will be left some remains you can't rid off


Hi mate,
I am here with another issue. Today I wanted to check the air on the shock because it shrinks 3 cm approximately.
- I pressed the red button to relieve pressure
- I open air cap and attach shock pump to valve stem and realised there is no pressure at all and removed shock pump
- I used 3 mom hex key to depress the air valve core to remove the remaining pressure but lots of oil starts coming.
I stopped and cleaned it. Attached shock pump to put more air and it seemed worked but attached pump again and see there is no pressure at all. Additionally oil keeps coming when I press on valve core or attach shock pump. I added a video here. What should I do?

[PV=]
Manitou Dorado Pro air valve problem

by TravellerSeko
Views: 43    Faves: 0    Comments: 0
flag Chuvak
Posted: Sep 11, 2022 at 16:47 Quote
if you successfully pumped your fork, it means there is some pressure. but that amount if oil says that you likely need to check and replace 2 o-rings of spring rod (one that inside of the air shaft)
flag TravellerSeko
Posted: Sep 12, 2022 at 11:52 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
if you successfully pumped your fork, it means there is some pressure. but that amount if oil says that you likely need to check and replace 2 o-rings of spring rod (one that inside of the air shaft)

Cheers mate,
I’ll send it to get fully serviced. Oil keeps coming whenever I press on that. There is no dorado service kit in stock. Therefore, full service by TF Tuned will be the best choice at the moment. They replace all wiper, seals, o-rings, oil etc

You are super helpful
flag Chuvak
Posted: Sep 12, 2022 at 16:01 Quote
Pay attention to tell them you have that bug with spring. Standard o-ring kit from manitou does not have orings for spring rod, so they will have to replace those o-rings separately. Not a big deal, but anyway.
flag kebarb
Posted: Jun 4, 2023 at 3:03 Quote
Chuvak wrote:
Pay attention to tell them you have that bug with spring. Standard o-ring kit from manitou does not have orings for spring rod, so they will have to replace those o-rings separately. Not a big deal, but anyway.

Hi!

Thanks for excellent posts.

Do you know the size of those o-rings?

I have a dorado that is leaking alot of oil, it is leaking out on the stanchions and ends up on the dropouts collecting dust and dirt there.

I ordered the MRD kit and that comes with new whipers. But i am assuming that maybe there is something internal too?
This goes for both sides, not just one side, so it makes me think it is not about the air-spring or the damer unit itself.

Fork came with a used bike, but condition looks almost like new, or 10-30hours of use.

Please let me know if you have suggestions.

Also i would like to know original oil for damper cartridge so that i can find proper replacement oil (cSt). Is it Maxima Plush around 18 cSt? I was going to use Fox Gold in the outer legs. Thanks!

keep up the good work!

EDIT:
found this in another thread:
Maxima Racing Fork Fluid 5WT sits at 15.60 cSt@40C

The Plush 5WT stuff has a viscosity of 18.60 cSt@40 C.

So yes there is a difference. The Racing fork fluid will make your damping slightly lighter compared to the Plush stuff. If you personally will notice it I can't tell, but some people definitely would notice it.

link for cSt list:
http://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/
flag mountainjew
Posted: Jun 5, 2023 at 0:55 Quote
Sounds like your Oil Seals are dirty or worn out. They come with the MRD kit. Be careful to install the new ones in the same way the old ones were. They leak if installed upside down

Both of the maxima oils are close enough. It won't make a dramatic difference whichever you choose.
Dougal at Shockcraft also recommends MOTOREX 5wt and even 2.5wt for lighter riders

 


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