Can't stop 1x10 from skipping

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Can't stop 1x10 from skipping
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Posted: Oct 5, 2013 at 13:55 Quote
I've got a 2013 Norco Range. When I had OEM parts, and after a few months of riding, the drive train would "skip" when standing and pedaling hard in higher gears. I wanted to swap out the drivetrain anyway so I didn't think much of it. I swapped to race face 32T wide-narrow up front to go 1x10. The skipping continued. I swapped out the OEM SRAM X5 rear mech for a Shimano SLX shifter and Zee deraileur. Still skipped...

At this point if figured it was the low-end Formula hub failing. I wanted a better hub anyway so I swapped hubs to a Zee rear hub. Still skips....


I've tuned all my mech in the past without issue, and I just can't get this bike to stop skipping. Any thoughts?
Still have the OEM SRAM 10sp chain and cassette.

All I can think of is that maybe the cable housing is pulling on the deraileur as the bike bounces when I stand and pedal, or the rear end if flex so much that it's somehow causing the chain to catch on another cog briefly.

Posted: Oct 5, 2013 at 20:02 Quote
Bent hanger? Bent derailleur? Cable too tight?

O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2013 at 22:03 Quote
Change your chain and cassette.

A stretched chain will not mesh with the gears properly. It starts to change the tooth pitch to match its pitch through rubbing/wear. Eventually the cassette will have really small teeth with the shape of a sharks tooth. The chain often won't even grab that. The smallest, ie hardest, rear cogs wear the fastest.

Sometimes dropping chains bends links a little bit, making more friction and causing that stretch which is killing your drivetrain.

If you don't think your cassette looks bad, measure 12 full chain links. It should be 12 inches long when new. If it is more than 12 and 1/16 now, it needs to go.

If it had been your front ring skipping, it would have just popped off. Since that is new and wasn't happening before (I assum?), it has been your cassette and chain combo all along. When it skips back there, it will fall to another gear and then the derailleur will move it back up, making the skip real long.


Edit: also don't buy the lowest end chain. My oem chain is apparently super cheap, and the reviews were terrible, with many people breaking it. The chain will most likely make the most difference in durability as you move up the tiers. Bad chains will rather quickly destroy good cassettes. Cassettes just get lighter/shift faster the more expensive you get.
I have the same problem now cause I'm cheap. I am starting to have trouble making it hold at all... of course the cassette looks like crap too now. Should have spent the money earlier... oops.

Posted: Oct 6, 2013 at 9:42 Quote
I think you may find or see either stretched chain or a stiff link, i had this issue few yes back turned out to be my chain

Posted: Oct 6, 2013 at 16:58 Quote
Thanks for the advice guys! I'll try a new chain. i bought the lowest end spec (came with elixir 1 brakes) so I'm sure the chain is low end. I'll start there.

Posted: Oct 6, 2013 at 20:26 Quote
Anyone got suggestions for good chains? I don't know what's good and what's bad. Don't care about weight, just want durability and good shifting.

Posted: Oct 6, 2013 at 20:34 Quote
Currently have a SRAM PC 1031, which is spec'd even on the $7000 carbon Range. Any way i can tell if mine is damaged?

Posted: Oct 7, 2013 at 10:07 Quote
Maybe you should check your chain line first. Then adjust your rd pulley distance with cassette. Its kinda hard to tell by text, but its pretty simple to do if you watch it directly. Maybe you can search in you tube how to set your rear derailleur. Its a simple task once you know the principal. As far as I know between cheap drivetrain and high end drive train is their material and their durability. Means beside the heavier weight, cheaper drivetrain need more attention or tweaked to keep it smooth.
From what you describing, my guess its your pulley either too close or too far from your cassette.
Undo your shifter cable from rd, then this is what I will do.
You should check the b-tension (adjusment of your rd pulley distance to cassette). It approx 6mm.
then spin the wheel (your chain should drop to smallest cog by now) and listen if the line is correct. No grinding sound. If you hear a grinding sound, then turn "H" screw in your RD until the sound dissappear.
Set your shifter in the smallest gear (most loose), then tightening your shifter cable in the rd. You just put the cable with slightly pull the cable from your shifter, and I really mean just a light pull.
By know, spin your wheel again and try shifting. It should be good, and you can fine tune it from your shifter barrel adjuster.
if it can't go to your biggest cog, just unscrew "L" screw in your RD 1/4 turn at a time.
it may sound complicated, but its not.
like I said before, it will help alot if you watch it thru video.
Maybe someone can correct my method.
hope this help you. Smile

Posted: Oct 14, 2013 at 8:22 Quote
I had a similar problem to this on a GT that I had with a full SLX groupset. It only skipped when you were giving the drivetrain any aggro. After messing about with the gears for a bit I found one of the links not meshing properly with the teeth on the cassette at the back and after stripping the chain off found it to be a bent link. One new chain later and it was perfect.

Posted: Oct 15, 2013 at 18:47 Quote
Ya, that's what I'm afraid of. I wonder if i messed up my chain when removing links to shorten it. I don't think my chain tool is meant for 10speed chains.

Posted: Oct 15, 2013 at 21:22 Quote
I thought 9 and 10 speed chains had the same dimensions on the pin/roller and only outer width was different.

Posted: Oct 16, 2013 at 9:13 Quote
Bacon, could you SEE the bad chain link not engaging the cassette when pedaling the bike on the bike stand with your hand? (ie not under heavy pedaling forces of riding)

Posted: Oct 16, 2013 at 9:57 Quote
yeah I could. as it went onto the cassette it didn't sit flush becauae the stiff link prevented it from doing so. I marked it with a chalk and it was the same link making the clunk every time which was the one causing the chain to slip.

Posted: Oct 16, 2016 at 0:50 Quote
Hi
I've had problems all year with my Norco carbon 2015 road bike slipping gears or not transitioning smoothly. Spent lots getting new gear cables, new chain etc etc. Just taken bike back sgson to shop and all they did was to fit another new chain, another new right gear cable and clean the drive chain. Went out on it yesterday and it's worse that even with a definite slippage in the middle gears. So frustrated and wondered if it could be a Norco fault. Music to my ears of it was a recall is due. Any thoughts?

Posted: Oct 16, 2016 at 1:14 Quote
Yeah I just put a Norco sticker on my frame and all of a sudden my drivetrain started skipping. Definitely an issue with the brand.

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