Marzocchi Lowering Thread. First Post Tells You How.

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Marzocchi Lowering Thread. First Post Tells You How.
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Posted: Jan 7, 2008 at 19:04 Quote
This is my tutorial on how to lower these forks, there are many forks that this will work on.
Yes there was one on the old Pinkbike but this is meant to be an effective replacement for that seeing as though many do not access the old forum very often.

Tools
-21mm and 12mm sockets
-a hacksaw
-an old set of handle bars

Step 1: Remove the valve caps, and using somthing thin push the pin in the shreader valve so the air rushes out (make sure you get all the air, some oil may come too but thats ok).

Step 2: Remove the top caps using a socket (I used a 13/16 there is a closer metric mesure but this worked)

Step 3: Tip the fork upside down to pour the oil out. If you plan to reuse the oil then you should probably use 2 separate containers (keep them separate the oil levels will be different. the compression sping may come out too if not SLOWLY compress the fork and it will pop out.

Step 4: Compress the fork all the way. There may be a few drips of oil left. Now undo the nuts on the bottom of the lowers (using a 13mm Socket, you may have to grind (or file) the socket to fit the hole in the lowers). You may not know if they are undone so do both sides simotaniously and keep pulling the lowers and see when they come off.

Step 5: Once the lowers are off the stantions will be left with two rods hanging down with two small round nuts on the ends, these are your damping rods. Undo the nuts and the rods should fall out otherwise just poke them up the stantions untill you can pull them out the top.

Step 6: With the damping rods out there should be a short spring and in some cases a spacer on the rod. Now take your handlebars and cut a spacer the amount you want the fork lowered. For instace if you have 150mm and you want 100 your spacer should be 50mm. put that spacer onto the rod if there is a spacer there already either leave it or mesure it and add it to what you cut off the bars.

Step 7: Assemble the fork by droping the rods back down the stantions, putting the round nuts on, refitting and tightenign the lowers back in place add your new or old oil, oil levels can be found here the oil level is in CC or cubic centimeters which is exactly the same as mL.

Step 8: You now have to put your spring in now depending on how low your new fork is the old spring may not fit, it is best to get a new spring which should be avalible at a local Marzocchi dealer but it is possible to cut your old spring to fit but you will lose the flat surface on one end of the spring which could in turn cause a major headache.

Step 9: Using the same socket you took them off with re-fit the top caps. Add some air and you are ready to rip

* This is going to void the warentee on your fork.
** I stronly suggest you read to the point of full comprehension the whole guide before starting.
*** I am not willing to accept any damage that may or may not be done during this adapatation.


Dirt Jam Pro Thanks to singlespeedtoday

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m132/johnsvashon/forklow-3.jpg
Dirt Jumper 1thanks to djbiker01

The only major difference here is the spacer position your new spacer must go above the one that is already in your fork. Like so:
1941156

1941156


The picture is reversed hence the arrows, the red spacer is the new one.

66 Thanks to Borgschulze

I know I didn't lower my fork, but I raised it... from 150mm to 170mm.

It's a 2005 66RC, and according to the Marzocchi manual, both versions have all the same parts in them.

150mm

2176729

2176729


170mm

2176723

2176723



OTHER FORKS THIS WORKS WITH (Confirmed by PB users):

44 tst2
4x RC3 WC

Please inbox almostwise with any others so the list can be completed.


"Pretty much any fork with either an air spring, or air assist can be done this way easily (no spring chopping involved). As for the coil ones, it's the same process but you may have to chop the spring depending on how low you go. The only models I don't think it works on is the newer 44 and 55 models with the AER air spring (you can adjust the volume of the air spring making it more/less progressive)." - NWray

Posted: Jan 7, 2008 at 19:13 Quote
wow thanks for all the info!

Posted: Jan 13, 2008 at 15:08 Quote
Good work, pictures would make it an absolute breeze tup

Posted: Jan 24, 2008 at 14:37 Quote
new seals are must when doing this also if you oild is brown or grew it need replacig

Posted: Jan 27, 2008 at 3:17 Quote
ajaxpowder wrote:
new seals are must when doing this also if you oild is brown or grew it need replacig

well you may not need new seals

it depends if they were old and or used.....and if your a hack who wrecks your parts when your disassembling them.

Posted: Jan 27, 2008 at 14:55 Quote
no..new seals are a must if this si ytour first rebuild

Posted: Jan 27, 2008 at 15:07 Quote
ajaxpowder wrote:
no..new seals are a must if this si ytour first rebuild

not really I have never changed a seal and i have done 3. Never had a leak either

Posted: Jan 27, 2008 at 15:22 Quote
ajaxpowder wrote:
no..new seals are a must if this si ytour first rebuild

Why exactly do you need new seals if this is your first build? I lowered mine fine and my seals are good as new.

Posted: Jan 31, 2008 at 17:05 Quote
samnation wrote:
Step 2: Remove the top caps using a socket (I used a 13/16 there is a closer metric mesure but this worked)

Step 9: Using the same socket you took them off with re-fit the top caps. Add some air and you are ready to rip

* This is going to void the warentee on your fork.
** I stronly suggest you read to the point of full comprehension the whole guide before starting.
*** I am not willing to accept any damage that may or may not be done during this adapatation.
If I remember right, the socket/wrench you need is a 21mm.
and again, if memory serves, when refitting them, they have to be torqued up to 21Nm. Check this with your Marzocchi distributor though. (there was a batch of forks that hadn't been done up tight enough from the factory, so leaked all their air out)

Posted: Feb 10, 2008 at 23:14 Quote
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m132/johnsvashon/forklow-3.jpg

Posted: Feb 16, 2008 at 10:17 Quote
on step 8- you do not need to cut your spring or buy a new one

Posted: Feb 16, 2008 at 10:20 Quote
gtkid wrote:
on step 8- you do not need to cut your spring or buy a new one

Sometimes you do because there can be to much preload for the rebound to handle making it like a pogo stick but other times you can get away with it.

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