Marzocchi Lowering Thread. First Post Tells You How.

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Marzocchi Lowering Thread. First Post Tells You How.
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Posted: Jan 4, 2019 at 14:58 Quote
A bit off topic sorry but I wondered if anyone had any suggestions for making my 2009 66 Rcv more versatile?
I know it'll never be much good for pedaling as its a fr fork really, but are there any steps I could take to make it blow through its travel less quickly..Maybe make it more progressive if that makes sense, to make it possible to ride to the trails

I was thinking harder spring, lower to 160mm, heavier weight oil.. Would any of these steps help at all?

Posted: Jan 4, 2019 at 15:22 Quote
All three would be beneficial, though for the cost of doing all that you could easily pick up a used fork on here that would be more suited to your needs.

Posted: Jan 4, 2019 at 16:01 Quote
Thanks ratcat, good advice Smile

Posted: Apr 12, 2019 at 2:15 Quote
Not really lowering anything, but just looking for some maintenance advise.
I have a 2007(?) DJ3 on my dirt bike, which I'd love to service as I think they've never had any work done on them.
The problem is, there are no guides for this anywhere. I know that this exists: https://www.marzocchi.com/System/18990/MY2007%20-%20Dirt%20Jumper%203%20-%20100.pdf
And the couple youtube videos about taking the fork apart, but nothing else.
The fork has a quite rough top out clunk, and the seals look cracked from just being so old and dry.

Posted: Apr 13, 2019 at 2:20 Quote
https://www.marzocchi.com/support.aspx?idC=62354



Enter your fork model/ year on the finder. There is everything you need. When you find the fork, oil levels are found on the "TECH" part.

Buy fork oil from Motonet motorcycle section. You can choose heavier oil if you need to get your damping stiffer/slower. Get sram butter/slickhoney etc proper grease for the oil seals and stanchions.

Its simple fork, so just take it apart and see what is going on inside. No need to bleed anything or so on.

If you need more precise help in Finnish, dm me!

Posted: May 4, 2019 at 5:30 Quote
Hi guys Im looking for a firm spring for my 2009 66 rcv
But I can only find that spring for the 2010 model which is apparently different, is there a way of making it work

Posted: May 7, 2019 at 2:04 Quote
nordland071285 wrote:
Hi guys Im looking for a firm spring for my 2009 66 rcv
But I can only find that spring for the 2010 model which is apparently different, is there a way of making it work
I've had good results in firming up DJ1's by ignoring what marzocchi recommends and switching to 20 wt. fork oil(up from 7.5), running twice as much air pressure(says 15psi,I run30), and also increasing oil levels. I've experimented with a few combinations of those variables. You'll also find that rebound adjustments will be much more effective and necessary. You can probably avoid switching the spring.

Posted: May 7, 2019 at 4:31 Quote
Thanks buddy, are there any risks to changing oil weight so dramatically?

Posted: May 17, 2019 at 18:10 Quote
How about this guys. 350NCR damper in my 55s!
It's running an ATA air cart that I added a topout / negative coil spring and still use the PAR piston for the extra support (way to linear without it)
It felt OK with an RC3 cart, better with an RC3evo cart from a mates fork, and now it feels really quite nice!!

This all started with a very cheap 55RC3ti that arrived wiith a bent crown/steerer Frown
No worries I will just get another 55 chassis and everything will fit in no worries...

As it turns out after acquiring 3 more 55's of different years, they used different stanchions depending on the internals / price

-SL / ATA models have no grooves in the stanchions to hold a spring assembly, but the ti spring does fit inside. :/
+Ti models with the ti spring have same stanchion diameter as SL but they have grooves to hold spring assembly
-Steel spring models have a 1mm smaller internal diameter and cannot fit a ti coil inside, though it should have room to fit an AER cartridge.

On the bright side all of the top cap threads are the same throughout the years and onto the 350, so you can change dampers and air cartridges easily like i have done to mine!

PS. Does anyone have a Switch TA cart they would like to sell me??
Marzocchi 55 NCR

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 23:20 Quote
Marzocchi 350 CR and NCR (2016)
what exactly is the difference, please?

Posted: Jun 9, 2019 at 19:10 Quote
NCR has a better damper with a lockout switch and comes in a coil spring option.
CR has a very budget damper with a lot more plastic parts.


I cant find a photo of the internals of the NCR damper, but every part inside is better quality and the whole unit screws together, unlike the CR

Posted: Jun 10, 2019 at 13:58 Quote
Hi
Does anyone have spare Spacers for a 350NCR fork I would like to lower from 160-140mm
I understand other marzocchi forks have similar spacers

any help would be really appreciated
I ride with one hand and am trying to stiffen up the front of my bike ( use a hopey damper/ viscoset )

Cheers

Posted: Oct 16, 2019 at 17:43 Quote
Question for the Marzocchi experts or hopefully someone who used to work for their service dept.

Can I safely increase the bushing overlap in my 55 by tapping the lower one further into the casting??
I want to do this because I measured both 55 and 350 lowers and the 350 has it's bushings 20mm further apart.
Both forks have the same length stanchions and same bore depth in castings.

And lastly, why can't I find 35mm slotted bushings anywhere online? The ones I removed have no branding identifying marking at all. Were they specially made for marzocchi? Did they all just get used up with warranty replacements??

Will the older 66 solid style bushing work with my nickel stanchions?

Posted: Oct 31, 2019 at 14:45 Quote
Hi Folks,
Thanks for that usefull Thread. I Lowered a 55 RS from 160 to 100 for a cheap DJ-Build. The only problem is, to tighten the nut and screw on the end of the casting. The inner rods begin to turn inside before I can thighten the screw. Any suggestions?

Beside that, I had no idea which year my fork was buildt. Haven’t found any exact drawing on the mz website. A picture of a DJ2 Fork from 2011 was the closest to my fork

Posted: Nov 1, 2019 at 5:09 Quote
I've found they tend to turn less when they are fully compressed, see if that helps.


 
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