I have a 1 degree angleset on an Offering V2 and running 160 fork on xlow. Sets headangle to about 64.3 degrees. I like it, suitable for my local terrain which is steep with a few drop ins now and then. If you are looking for more downhill capability it is an easy press-in and if you don’t like it you haven’t spent a lot of cash and easy to press the original headset back in.
Does anyone have experience with running a 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset on a Following or Offering? They both have similar head tube angles and im debating purchasing one but don't know if I will be able to notice the difference. I don't really think of the Following as being skittish downhill and can't find anything I am in desperate need of improving but It seems like according to other people going from of 66.5 degree HTA down to 65 degree makes a big difference descending. Thanks!
Did the 1.0 on a Devinci Django. Went from 66.5 to 65.5. Definitely noticed the difference in the steeper and faster areas, not much change anywhere else.
Does anyone have experience with running a 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset on a Following or Offering? They both have similar head tube angles and im debating purchasing one but don't know if I will be able to notice the difference. I don't really think of the Following as being skittish downhill and can't find anything I am in desperate need of improving but It seems like according to other people going from of 66.5 degree HTA down to 65 degree makes a big difference descending. Thanks!
I used a 1.5 angleset on one of the LB wreckonings, bringing it from 66.1 to 64.6 degrees (in the high position as i thought low was too slack lol) It changed the bike for the better but this was at a time where bikes were getting longer and slacker and i had gotten that frame on sale for super cheap and wanted to modernize it a bit.
An xc/trail bike like the following is going to feel quite a bit different than a 160mm wreckoning when they are both around 65 degrees, the geometry will certainly feel longer and more sure-footed but it will also highlight that short chainstay and make the rear end feel even more unwieldy. You may start feeling more comfortable at speeds on chunky trail that the suspension wont be as good at keeping up with, at only 120mm. If you want something a bit more trail/all mountain, i would sell your following frame and get an offering. I imagine there may be someone who’d be interested in trading frames with you.
Does anyone have experience with running a 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset on a Following or Offering? They both have similar head tube angles and im debating purchasing one but don't know if I will be able to notice the difference. I don't really think of the Following as being skittish downhill and can't find anything I am in desperate need of improving but It seems like according to other people going from of 66.5 degree HTA down to 65 degree makes a big difference descending. Thanks!
I ride a following V3 xl.
Over the summer I added a -1° angle set, and itimproved the bike in every way. Slightly steepened the seat tube angle, enough so that I notice it on the steepest sections of trail. Bike is more stable but has not lost its playfulness or maneuverability, and it is more confidence inspiring when headed down steeper sections of rough trail because of the slack head tube angle. So it pretty much changed the bike for the better without tradeoffs, and I would not consider going back to the original headset.
Does anyone have experience with running a 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset on a Following or Offering? They both have similar head tube angles and im debating purchasing one but don't know if I will be able to notice the difference. I don't really think of the Following as being skittish downhill and can't find anything I am in desperate need of improving but It seems like according to other people going from of 66.5 degree HTA down to 65 degree makes a big difference descending. Thanks!
I ride a following V3 xl.
Over the summer I added a -1° angle set, and itimproved the bike in every way. Slightly steepened the seat tube angle, enough so that I notice it on the steepest sections of trail. Bike is more stable but has not lost its playfulness or maneuverability, and it is more confidence inspiring when headed down steeper sections of rough trail because of the slack head tube angle. So it pretty much changed the bike for the better without tradeoffs, and I would not consider going back to the original headset.
Cheers.
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Awesome thanks! I will definitely consider adding an angle set.
Anyone have issues with the chain rubbing the chain guide on the biggest 50 tooth gear in the back? Mine makes contact even though the front chainring is centered in the chain guide. TIA
Edit, evil offering V2 using E13 LG1R crankset 32 tooth front chainring and Sram xx1 cassette
I've just taken delivery of my Insurgent MX. I notice that there is a little grey plastic tab that rotates about 45 degrees above the non-drive-side main linkage bolt... It doesn't seem to serve a purpose that I can spot... what is it for?
I've just taken delivery of my Insurgent MX. I notice that there is a little grey plastic tab that rotates about 45 degrees above the non-drive-side main linkage bolt... It doesn't seem to serve a purpose that I can spot... what is it for?
Sounds like the little sag checker. It’s supposed to show 30 percent sag I believe. Honestly I’ve not used it before but it’s there.
Anyone have issues with the chain rubbing the chain guide on the biggest 50 tooth gear in the back? Mine makes contact even though the front chainring is centered in the chain guide. TIA
Edit, evil offering V2 using E13 LG1R crankset 32 tooth front chainring and Sram xx1 cassette
I’ve had this happen. I was able to just adjust the chain guide a little bit by loosening the screws and it fixed it. Make sure the rear derailleurs all adjusted through too.
Does anyone have experience with running a 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset on a Following or Offering? They both have similar head tube angles and im debating purchasing one but don't know if I will be able to notice the difference. I don't really think of the Following as being skittish downhill and can't find anything I am in desperate need of improving but It seems like according to other people going from of 66.5 degree HTA down to 65 degree makes a big difference descending. Thanks!
I recently installed the works components 1.5 angleset on my offering v2, I didn't wanna change the fork to a 160mm. So far I really enjoy it, its a bike that pedals pretty well stock and so far it can plow through anything I'm capable of putting it through. I haven't noticed any penalty when pedaling but I personally think it feels better on the downhill.
Finally got the crankset spacing correct but it's really noisy when it's on the 50-tooth ring outback. The chain line is pretty bad, is this the new norm with super boost and super short chain stays? Trying to not buy a GX super boost crankset but so far the E13 LG1R even though it fits and works maybe not the best option.
Finally got the crankset spacing correct but it's really noisy when it's on the 50-tooth ring outback. The chain line is pretty bad, is this the new norm with super boost and super short chain stays? Trying to not buy a GX super boost crankset but so far the E13 LG1R even though it fits and works maybe not the best option.
I have XT super boost cranks and the correct offset wolf tooth chain ring (30T). Still makes some fuss when in 51T. Chainline is within a tenth or two of 56.5 mm. I may mess with spacers a bit to bring the chain ring a touch more inboard and replace the chain, which is overdue.
Finally got the crankset spacing correct but it's really noisy when it's on the 50-tooth ring outback. The chain line is pretty bad, is this the new norm with super boost and super short chain stays? Trying to not buy a GX super boost crankset but so far the E13 LG1R even though it fits and works maybe not the best option.
I have XT super boost cranks and the correct offset wolf tooth chain ring (30T). Still makes some fuss when in 51T. Chainline is within a tenth or two of 56.5 mm. I may mess with spacers a bit to bring the chain ring a touch more inboard and replace the chain, which is overdue.
My front chainring is as far inboard as possible, I can't imagine it being any closer since it very close to the swingarm and also the chain is 1-2mm before it hits the chain guide. It sucks to have such a nice bike with a noisy drivetrain. I added a pic to my first post
Finally got the crankset spacing correct but it's really noisy when it's on the 50-tooth ring outback. The chain line is pretty bad, is this the new norm with super boost and super short chain stays? Trying to not buy a GX super boost crankset but so far the E13 LG1R even though it fits and works maybe not the best option.
I have XT super boost cranks and the correct offset wolf tooth chain ring (30T). Still makes some fuss when in 51T. Chainline is within a tenth or two of 56.5 mm. I may mess with spacers a bit to bring the chain ring a touch more inboard and replace the chain, which is overdue.
My front chainring is as far inboard as possible, I can't imagine it being any closer since it very close to the swingarm and also the chain is 1-2mm before it hits the chain guide. It sucks to have such a nice bike with a noisy drivetrain. I added a pic to my first post
What’s weird I find is that some are noisy and some aren’t. My personal offering with Shimano drivetrain is silent while in the granny gear (I’m in it a lot so I know). I’ve worked on several other evil and other superboost bikes and some were noisy and some weren’t. It’s just one of those things I’ve accepted to live with and chock up to differences in manufacturing and machining.
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