!-=Ultimate Dirt Jump Building guide=-! Brought from Old Pinkbike!

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!-=Ultimate Dirt Jump Building guide=-! Brought from Old Pinkbike!
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flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 10, 2008 at 15:29 Quote
THIS MESSAGE WAS NOT MADE BY ME AND I TAKE NO CREDIT FOR IT. I JUST POSTED IT HERE SO PEOPLE COULD SUBSCRIBE TO IT IF THEY LIKED IT IN CASE THEY LOST THE LINK TO THE OLD PINKBIKE WEBSITE FORUM. I HOPE YOU ENJOY THIS IT WAS CREATED BY A GUY WITH THE USERNAME OF URBAN-RIDER_TOM HE IS A GREAT DIRT JUMP BUILDER IT SEEMS

So here we go:

ok let me begin..
good dirt jumps are only made if you put the time and effort into making them, this takes commitment and motivation...if you don't have this then don't bother reading the rest.
here is something too wet your appetite and build some motivation....

these are Belton trails near Birmingham in the uk. with time and hard work, trails like this can be achieved!

(Sorry For No Pictures)



If you have pictures of dirt jumps that you like feel free to post them as everyone likes to look at other peoples dirt jumps for inspiration and ideas.



a sure fire way of knowing if yor dirt jumps are going to be good can be judged on youre location

location.
there are two main places to build dirt jumps. in a field or in a forest. they both have there pros and cons, like a field s good because there are no trees in the way and easy to get too. but they dry out and crumble or th wind stops you from riding and they get found by the wrong people. digging in the woods is good because jumps are hard to find and are protected form wind, sun and diggers ect but is bad because they have to turn and sometimes are always wet.
you want the jumps to be on a slight downhill and the run up to be steep (although the jumps can be on flat but you need to be very good at pumping)
the most important thing to concider in the location is the run up. a good run up is down hill and straght and about 80 foot long. another thing to concider are how many jumps you want to build. a medium sized 6 pack should take up about 80 feet of space. dont forget the run out!!! you can build a berm at the end. try to get planning permission from the counsil and if its private land written permission is a must. but if you are going to do the stupid thing...DONT cut down trees! and dont drop litter and try to hide them.

Equipment
get some decent trail building equipment. this will last you and will pay off,
you will need...

a spade (prefebly long handled)
a small spade * (for fine work)
a shovel for shifting
a wheel barrow
a rake
a pick*
a watrering can*
a broom*

* not essential

getting started
once you've found you place and got permission!!! try and get motavation. search google for images this will give you a better idea of what you want in the end. round up a group of mates to help. work will get done twice as fast.
check the mud in the area. if it is sand then your jumps aint going to last long...sand crumbles when its dry and sould be keept wet. what you are looking for is clay. goes rock hard and super smooth. although it is hard to dig....dont put stones in the jumps and DONT USE LOGS!!!! these ruin the shape of any jump. all good jumps are 100% dirt.
clear out the run up and the area where you are digging of weeds and overgrowth, (not trees) do this by choping the bottom of the weed then swiping it with a spade. this will make digging alot easyer. then get sticks and mark out where you want to put the jumps this will help getting a better idea of what you want to get.

The dirty work!
the first steep is to pile the mud up...
the best time to dig is in the rain. this helps the jumps to pile up and will make life alot easyer. dont go and dig a random hole! you get the mud from the bowls in between the jumps. the best jumps start with a set up jump, this has a small take off and no bowl infront of it, they have a fast kick. the best way to pile up mud is to do it in levels, these are the base (a foot of the ground) the middle and the lip. at each stage stamp down the mud on top, and stamp down the sides. the shape you want to get is a square base and a sloping sides, a sloping top and a rectanguler top. this will help them get stong and give a level base to build onto. the best way to dig out the ground is with blocks of mud and slap them on the pile. these go hard faster.
the landings are steep and have a bowl that goes deeper than ground leval. these help to get you into the flow of the jumps and help with speed. the bowl should have a constant curve. no flat bits and should be as smooth as it possably can. bumps take away momentum. the deepest part of the bowl shoulod be in the middle. keep in mind drainage....

shaping
this is where you need patiants(sp?) this is an art you know! firstly stamp down the jump with your feet, this helps to get a basic shape and compresses the dirt, it is better to shape when the dirt is really wet. remember! the shape your trying to get is a triangle with a flat top. the more the sides slope, the stronger the jump will be. To shape the most important part, the transition, first stamp down the mud then fill a wheelbarrow with mud and roll up and down the tranny (and only the tranny!), this helps to give it a perfect constant curve and it also packs in the mud more. after that you will notice the tranny will have small bumps so to finish it off and properly compress it, get a flat sided spade and hit it down, if mud sticks to the spade then it isnt wet enough underneath (leave untill it rains) rember the shape you wanty is a constant curve and a steep lip (but no too steep for obvious reasons) after youve done the tranny hit the sides with the spade untill it is hard. for the landing do the same but the landing should be the same steepness but not as much of a curve in the transiton.



Drainage
this is possably the most imprortant part of your trails. good drainage will alow you to ride when its been wet. dig drainge at the side of the bowls, this can be judged when it rains and you know where puddles form and you can see the direction where the water flows. dig a small hole about a foot deep half a foot wide and a foot long, this should be enough depending on the earth you are useing.


Tabletops!
i have added this because a user asked. this is where a wheelbarrow and alot of friends comes in handy!

these are good because you can add / takeaway as much of the lip / landing as you want without moving the jump itself.

a good size to start with is a bowl infront of the first (for the mud) of arould 2 foot deep and 4 foot wide, and 6-7 foot long. the table should only come about two foot out of the ground. (so in theory, the jump is 4 foot heigh) the length should be about 5 foot. a steep landing is good on tables too.
use these measurements for the next one but add about a foot accrordingly to the gradiant of the ground you are working on.

start by filling a wheelbarrow with mud and making a massive pile where you want the jump to be, it doesnt matter if the pile isnt even.
every now and again, rake the pile even and stamp it down. then pile more on.
when the height you want is achived, start pileing the mud infront and behind for the landing and take off. stamp this down and keep adding! (the more you add, the longer the jump)
do exactly what i said in the shaping section to create the tranny and landing. these are very easy too build but take a long time. the more you add the better, also, using your feet for the packing down is better because it applys more pressure.

Maintanance
too wet to ride eh??! well dont be miserable. grap a waterproof coat and do some patching up on your trails. these tips will prolong the life of your jumps.

if it is wet..
*start by picking up any litter (for obviouas reasons).
*rake up sticks and leaves from the run up, bowls and run out.
*make sure the drainage is effective.
*fix the lips of your jumps by slapping on some uber wet mud and shaping it.
*fill in any cracks

if it is dry...

*sweep up the dust
*wet the jumps
*clean up the litter
*try to patch up the broken lips


Toms top trail tips!
1. reguarly water the jumps, this will stiop them from crubling apart and make them stronger
2. do not drop litter
3. dont dig random holes for dirt, use bowls in between jumps
4. round up a group of mates to help you
5. reguarly maintain the jumps i.e fill in cracks and fix cased lips
6.dont chop down trees
7.get a strong person to do the pushing the wheelbarrow shaping!!!
8. take your time, trails dont get built over night
9. dig in the rain, this defiantly pays of when it comes to shaping
10. try and get permission, if not the dig well away from civalisation, i.e over streams in the woods, this will stop diggers from bveing able to buldoze them!!!
11. dig over winter when you cant ride, the jumps dry out slower making them harder and dont crack
12. file the ends of your spades sharp. this helps with cutting and chopping through roots
13. letting grass / weeds grow on your jumps will hold them together better.
14. sweep up the dust, this will make pedaling easyer and grip better.
15. carpit holds lips togeter and increses grip

JaRgOn BuStEr!
what the hell does that mean? i hear you say. look no further!

double. two piles of mud formed into a dirtjump with a varied size gap inbetween.

table a dirtjump without a gap, can be rolled over, good for begginers.

Rolling double a double with very slack backs to them, they can be rolled over. good for begginers wanting to learn doubles.

tranny or transition the curved bit at the front of the take off / landing. these should have a constent curve.

gradiant the steepnes at the top of the lip. 45 deggres will give the most distance and height. steeper the better (more air time.....whoooo!)

bowl the area inbetween the landing and take off. these should have drainage and a constent curve, they should be around 2 foot deep depending on the height of the next take off and have the deepest bit in the middle. get your mud for the next jump from here.



Other pointers from other users, and my comments.
sorry if i get any of your names wrong...thanks

1. "another tip i have for packing jumps is to use a 3 or 4 foot 2x4 and just go to town on the jump...it will be packed and hard as hell when you are done...so fast so easy!!!," boi

a very good tip, but make sure you get it all smooth with a spade again after! thanks for that

2. "I just have one thing to add, when you are building them and are in the final stages of the jump and tranny use your foot to pack it then kinda rake it so there is a soft layer then use your feet to pack it again. this is better than the shovel because more pounds per square inch is being applied. do that sequence about three or four times or untill you feel that your jump is packed enough.and for the final touch leave it just with the rake lines..it looks nice," bigbobby1590

i tried this the other day, good tip, but i suggest raking it, then stamping it then rake, then stamp ect. finishing it off with a spade for ultra smoothness!. but make sure you stamp it down good or it sticks to the spade when wet.

3.ive got a tip to form solid lips me and my friend use this take 2 peices of scrap ply wood say 2' or 3' long by 2' put one on the top and one person stand on it and the other you jump on the back 2 pack the lip ds_fr4life

This is good because it compacts the mud from 2 places at once, and stops the mud from getting spread out, allowing for less time digging and more time riding!

4. my friend used cement one time. he didn't do it right but this other guy did it and it was wicked. just get some normal dirt or clayish dirt and put it in a wheel burrow with some water and just pour in some powder cement and follow the instructions. _*StITcHeS*_

this is an awsome tip, a friend of a friend did it once and the jumps went solid, and i mean solid!. just make sure the layer is thick so it doesnt crack. also try applying it with artexing utencils, ultra smooth!

5. "Even better is to build table landings. Build the dj normally, but fill a little bit before the normal landing in with dirt. It saves lots of work but still has a table part that leads to the landing. Basically it's a table top with some of the first part of the table part is took out." muphdog

This is a great idea for when you are progresing, build a table first, then take a little away out the middle when you get more confident...pure genius

6. "when building dranage, make the place where you ride slightly slanted like a road, so the water will run down to the sides and then dig a dranage hole where it pools. or you can dig a deep hole, then fill it with rocks, then put soil on top so the water drains through the soil and pools beneth the rocks, this aint as good because the soil will soon wear away from the surface. hope this helps, mark." mark_24

i like the rocks idea although it would be a pain in the arse to get right, and the slanted sides is the methord i use and it works a treat.

7. a hint for working with clay ... dont try to pack it down ! ... the clay is heavy enough that if you leave it to set for a few days it will be semi packed down .. after it has dried out and set a bit, then you can pack it wiht your shovel or shoe...sure its a hassle not being able to hit the jump the day you build it .. but in the long run its WAY worth it ... clay packs down like rock over time. smashnuk

defiantly. we never packed ours down over winter and now they are solid and only need a small amount of shaping to make them smooth.


8. another tip for working on your jumps ... if you see those jumps in the pictures .. the thing that the trail builders never do is just randomly pile dirt. you have to know how to place things in order to get that perfect shape. when we are building jumps in our forest the dirt there is moist clay so it makes for awsome jumps .. IF you know how to work with it. when we want to make a lip tall and uber steep you dont just make a random tall pile so you can pack down the face and jump it. sure it will work but it makes for a sh!t jump.. you have to make sure that the back and sides of the jump are well done before you can even think about the face. if you want to make a jump tall begin with a medium sized pile, then add dirt to the back and sides of the jump by smacking it in place, not just dropping it on. when you smack it in place it semi packs it and helps give your jump the perfect shape in half the time. and its obvious how to go from there .. if you want the lip wider you slap dirt on the sides, and if you want it taller you slap dirt on the back and then slap it on the top. when i build i worry about the face of the jump LAST. this is because when you want to make a strong long lasting jump the sides and back are what is supporting the jump, so those MUST be well done in order to give the jump its longevity. onse youve shaped and WELL packed down the sides and back, start shaping the lip. also by packing down the sides and back, the jump will not simply crumble as you get closer to the top of the lip when packing. the order i do things is i first get about 3/4 of the dirt i need in a pile, then i slap dirt on the sides/back/top according to how i want the lip to be, then once i have it at its preffered height/width i pack down the bacl of the jump, then the sides then the top. after i pack the top i redo the sides and back a small bit. now i do the face. once everything has been shaped the way you want pack everything over again ... like ALOT, and your jump should be ready to ride in all its uberness in no time at all. smashnuk

couldent have said it better myself





Thanks all for your comments, i do apriciate it!


i hope this helps you out!

Tom



NOT WRITTEN BY DIRT JUMPER 25


TOM:p.s. all this is my own original content. i made this because i want to help people out and give something back too the mountain biking community. feel free to copy it onto other forums/ websites ect, but please say where you got it from and who off.
pictures soon! (i promise) all these ideas are my own and my friends (unless otherwise stated) and have been tested in real life with our hard work at my trails. your tips are also greatly appriciated so keep em' comin'!.

The original link to the site is here:

http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=107713

IF YOU HAVE TIPS DONT HESITATE TO POST THEM!!
flag wigglez2
Posted: Jan 11, 2008 at 15:34 Quote
awesome! this should be a sticky. i read that guide a year or so ago and it was a big help to me.tup
flag stpriider2
Posted: Jan 11, 2008 at 15:45 Quote
All the snow melted here so I was thinking of repairing my Dj's. Thanks for bringing this back, I read it when it was created. I know your not the creator but feel free to post any pics of Dj's. Haha.Smile
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 11, 2008 at 17:55 Quote
stpriider2 wrote:
All the snow melted here so I was thinking of repairing my Dj's. Thanks for bringing this back, I read it when it was created. I know your not the creator but feel free to post any pics of Dj's. Haha.Smile

Awesome thanks I am glad I brought it back cause I myself love the guide and I had the pics that came with the post but they were on old computer and now are on backup DVD's. Ill find some pics and post em though.
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 11, 2008 at 18:03 Quote
Heres a photo I found that was in the Guide before. Its basically motivation. I think these jumps are awesome!

photo

1692054


Hope you like them too! Also if you have some images of dirt jumps you all like, feel free to post em!!
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 13:26 Quote
Man I just went to look at the backyard and I cant wait till the snows gone to start building up. Thank god this guide was made!
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 13:47 Quote
Heres some trail etiquette for the dirt jumper. This was stickied and created by a guy named wavedude. Hopefully this helps you all.

BE NICE TO THE LOCALS... If you were not invited to a trail, and wander into one without knowing anybody, don't just get on your bike and ride. Talk to whoever is there, ask who built the place, talk to the locals and befriend them before you ride. Don't be shy to ASK if you can ride THEIR trails, locals will rarely say no when asked, they just want to be recognized for what they built and want to feel secure that you're not going to wreck the place.

BRING A SHOVEL... There's nothing that locals like to see more, than a visitor who is willing to dig. Bringing a shovel with you says that you've got some dirtjump experience, that you appreciate what it takes to build a trail, and that you'll help the locals dig. Also, it's good if you can dig before you ride, for the locals will be more forgiving to you when you mess something up after a crash knowing you've already put in an hour or so of digging for them.

DON'T SHAPE A JUMP... Bringing a shovel with you may bring a smile to a local's face, or it may strike fear into their hearts. The last thing a local wants is someone to reshape their jumps, so don't start modifying anything. Even if you're good at it, it may not be the way they like it done at their trails. The best thing you can do, is have your spade shovel ready to move large piles of dirt when they ask you to, not to shape anything. Let them do the fine work, while you stick to the laborer work.

IMMEDIATELY FIX WHAT YOU BREAK... If you're visiting someone else's trail, and you're not as good as Fuzzy, you'll probably crash, ghost your bike, or simply case the jumps for awhile before you get the place dialed (or like me, do all of those at the same time). Whenever your bike takes a piece out of the jumps, make sure you immediately fix it. Don't wait until after another run, fix it immediately, and do a good job.

DON'T ABORT A JUMP ON THE LIP... If you just overjumped a landing, and know you're not going to make the next jump, either stop quickly in the pit without skidding your tires (having a front brake makes this easy), or sacrifice your bike and ghost it, or go for the jump anyway and bail in the air. Whatever you do, don't stop on the takeoff and roll your tire over the lip, or worse, plant your big feet on the lip. The main priority is to protect the lip at all costs. No one cares about casing a landing, what they care about is the takeoff lip, so protect it at all costs.

NEVER FILL IN A DOUBLE... This obviously applies only to beginner riders who are scared of jumping a trail. Sometimes when the trails are empty and no one is around, they'll 'fill in' a small double with a sheet of plywood or something, turning the double into a tabletop. The problem with this is that they'll end up 'rolling over' the takeoff, destroying the lip, and forcing the locals to spend hours fixing what they ruined. If you can't jump a double, then go build your own tabletop somewhere else, don't be a trail vandal just 'cause you suck.

NEVER RIDE WHEN IT'S WET... If it has rained recently, and the ground is still wet, don't ride the trails. Even though you may be able to ride them, you'll be grooving up the jumps, basically ruining them. This is the number one way of getting locals to want to kill you. If the ground is moist, go ride street instead.

DON'T ADVERTISE THE LOCATION... Dirtjumps exist because locals built them. Dirtjumps continue to exist because their location is kept a well guarded secret. If you're lucky enough to find out where a trail is, keep it to yourself. Don't put up a webpage listing the location of a trail, unless you want the locals to hunt you down and make you eat your computer.

DON'T LITTER, AND TAKE YOUR GARBAGE WITH YOU... I know this sounds all too obvious, for if you ever litter anywhere, then you're just a loser, period. But even if you see garbage cans at the trails, do the locals a favor and take your garbage out with you when you leave. Don't add to their garbage problems. This of course doesn't apply to cracked fork and other broken bike parts, which may be publicly displayed hanging from a tree, a warning to others of the war between steel and dirt, and the helpless victims killed in battle (that being your bike).
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 13:49 Quote
Heres some more stuff from the old pinkbike I found on dirt Jumping. It was created by a guy named Southern Freerider:

------------------5. Dirt Jumps----------------


5.1 Location


For the location of dirt jumps, you use pretty much same concept as general trails (read 1.1), except with a few differences. You'll want the dirt jumps on a flat, or preferably, slightly downhill slope, so pumping to the end is easier. You'll also probably want some form of a roll-in to save a hard pedal-in too but that's optional. Mud is also quite an important factor, read 6.1 for a mud guide. Also, you really want to keep in hidden and away from where people might find it. Also, if the trees around the jumps tend to drop a lot of pine needles or leaves or whatever, you might not want to build under them unless you like sweeping them up, however does provide with nice shade in summer, so its a tradeoff. Also, be by a water supply such as a river or lake helps because you can collect water from there to use on the jumps.


5.2 Tools


For dirt jumping it's less personal preference toolswise, but you can do all the work with a simple spade, so all other tools just make life easier. In priority order:

Long handle spade, used for general digging, and shaping if you don't have a special flat head D-handle spade. The long handle makes life easier for your back, and a pointed tip makes initally getting into any tough ground easier.
Short D-handle spade, with a flat square head, used mostly for shaping, but can also be used for general spadework.
Wheelbarrow, used if you're getting your mud not from the pits inbetween the jumps.
Rake, can be used to shape lips, though not everyone likes them over the standard spade.
Mattock (a.k.a. 'pick'), used to get through the initial layer of very tough ground (not essential).
Broom, used to sweet dusty or leavy hardpacked trails (not essential).
Bucket or watering can, to water jumps if you have a lake or river nearby.

That's about it, remeber you can use what you want, or any additional tools if need be.


5.3 Starting Out


Get some insirpation by scanning the web for killer sweet dirt jumps. Or just check out these sweet pics I found.

photo

888002

photo

644481

photo

834234


photo

440641


Now you have some motivation, round up your mates (threaten them if need be with beatings and stuff) so you have someone to help dig, and it'll also be quicker that way. Also, scope out the spot you'll be building at prior to this. Round up ya tools and your bikes and head off.

Once you're there, do intial clearing everywhere in planned jumps vacinity (see 2.2), then, once you visualised where you be building the jumps, do secondary clearing anywhere you'll be digging into the ground.


5.4 Building the basic shape


First of all you need to understand the shape of a dirt jump and the connecting pits. To do this, analyse pictures of some quality jumps to get the idea. Then, start off my digging up the dirt from infront of the first lip, to make the first pit, and pile up the dirt where the lip will be. Then, do the same for the landing ramp, starting the pit that'll connect the first and second jump. Then, skip on the the shaping stage, or you can get the basic shape of the rest of the jumps at this stage too. You can for example work with ya mates building jumps simultainously. If you need more dirt to get the lips high or wider, widen the pit, or use the dirt from the drainage (5.6) holes. Don't just keep on digging down otherwise the trannies will be too abrupt. If you dig deeper, you'd have to make the gap between the jumps bigger.


5.5 Shaping


Once the dirt is in the general shape of the jump, you'll need to 'whack it in', compress it. Ideally you should wet the jumps at this stage, but you can always wet them later and recompress, but it's best the wet before you whack it in. Now, use your rake, or spade to spread the dirt around so its all smooth and looks like a jump. To whack it in, hit it with a spade as hard as you can, and keep whacking until its all smooth and even. Make sure to whack in the sides and back too otherwise it'll fall apart.

I have heard of another way to whack them in, which is to put carpet over the dirt then hit to carpet, but my way works too, just try both and see which you like.

Remeber, shapin glips in an art, so get as much practise and so can, and ride a lot so you know what the 'perfect' lip should be like. If in doubt, do it, then get an experienced jumping to tell you where you went right and/or wrong.

Also, very important tip here, if the jumps are wet (they probably will be after ya finished building them cause you wet them), do not ride them, you'll leave big ruts it them. Leave for a couple of days (or until next weekend), so they go real hard. Don't be impatient, you just wreck them (I know it's hard to wait once ya finally finished but be patient).

5.6 Drainage

Now, drainage is something you should consider because you even start digging, there are a few different ways to do this, so have at look at these various examples to see what ya options are.

It doesn't take rocket science to build them, water goes downhill, use that nice easy to remeber fact and you'll be fine. Also, try not to buil din the bottom of a water basin otherwise you get more to deal with that to do be dealing with.


5.7 Maintenance


Maintenance is one of, if the most important part of building the jumps, without it, the jumps will deterioate and fall apart, and all that effort has gone to waste.

You start off by getting feedback from ya mates and other riders to see if they like the general shape and flow. If not, fix that first be rebuilding or reshaping anything if necessary. This is often overlooked unfortunately, and some jumps are only then ridden by a few beause they are soo hard, or too sketchy. So, get feedback to make sure ya jumps are good for everyone.

Then, fix up any damaged stuff now. Don't just fix, fix the problem not the result of the problem, but if it is just someone being a dick or an accident just repair.

Then, sort out any other problems such as cracked lips, ruts, puddles, general crap all over jumps such as leaves and stuff, by using your common sense. Also, clean up any litter as it wrecks the general atomsphere and get the jumps destroyed.


5.8 Get Creative


Remeber, if at all possible, get creative and don't just build a basic row of jumps, mix it up, throw in berms, hips, step-ups, step-downs, whoops, etc.. Be creative and come up with the craziest things around.

Here's a few pics to get you inspired.


5.9 General Tips


Build as much as you can, start small and get bigger, good jumps take experience to build right.
Don't drop litter.
If it rains, get out and dig, don't be a pussy.
Take you time, Rome wasn't build in a day, neither was woburn or wisley.
Remeber to maintain the jumps.
Build a runout, and don't forget to leave room for it when planning it.
Build the jumps nice and wide, nothing's worse than skinny trannies.
Make tabled landing lips, basically, it means you have a bit of a saveguard if you going too slow because you screwed up the pump for example.
Know your soils! Read 6.1 for a guide to mud.
Round up any many mates as possible, the more mates, the quicker the jumps come up.
Put carpet on the landing lips, this keeps the mud together, especially you tryting spinny tricks or case a lot.
A VERY IMPORTANT TIP, don't bring your girlfriend along to help dig, she'll just dump your ass, bring her riding, but NOT digging.
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 13:52 Quote
Southern Freerider was really great and also added a soil Guide which I thought was amazing so here it is:

-------------6. Additional Stuff--------------


6.1 Soil types, pros and cons


(sourced from IMBA: Trail Solutions)

Sandy Soil:

Dry: Loose, feels rough, you can see indivudual grains of sand.
Wet: Squeeze a handful of it. Sand will form a ball that crumbles apart easily and does not stain your fingers.

Silty Soil:

Dry: It feels smooth and powdery, like flour.
Wet: It feels smooth, but not sticky, and crumbles apart.

Clay Soil:

Dry: Clods are almost impossible to break with your fingers.
Wet: It is sticky, easily forms a ball, and leaves stain on your fingers.

Loamy Soil (BEST):
mix of various types

Dry: Clods are moderately difficult to break and somewhat gritty to touch.
Wet: It niether gritty nor sticky; it forms a firm ball when squeezed.

PRO/CONS:

Water-holding capacity:

Sand - Low
Silt - Medium-to-high
Clay - High
Loamy - Medium

Drainage Rate:

Sand - High
Silt - Slow-to-medium
Clay - Very slow
Loamy - High

Compactability:

Sand - Low
Silt - Medium
Clay - High
Loamy - High

Susceptibility to water erosion:

Sand - Low
Silt - High
Clay - Low (if compressed) High (if not)
Loamy - Low
flag dylaine
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 14:22 Quote
awesome guide! this should educate at least one noob eh?
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 14:27 Quote
dylaine420 wrote:
awesome guide! this should educate at least one noob eh?

Damn right buddy.
flag dylaine
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 14:29 Quote
dirtjumper25 wrote:
dylaine420 wrote:
awesome guide! this should educate at least one noob eh?

Damn right buddy.
good thing i seen this thread- when i was reading the part about riding over the lips and planting ur feet on them etc, i shuddered and the hair stood up on the back of my neck! hahaSalute grrr i hate kids that do that
flag dylaine
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 14:30 Quote
next season im thinking of posting a threatening sign on the run up of my DJs..what u think?
flag dirtjumper25
Posted: Jan 12, 2008 at 14:31 Quote
dylaine420 wrote:
next season im thinking of posting a threatening sign on the run up of my DJs..what u think?

Sounds like a good idea. Should stop punks from messing with anything up.
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