YT Capra Owners

Author Message
Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 10:41 Quote
Hello all

re 2016 capra al comp mech hangers

Once you have got over the initial yip and e of you new bike arriving - take a look at how to put a new mech hanger -on try the video on youtube as if you have not read the manual [like me ]

you may get caught out on a trail .thinking shit I need a wrench

it super easy once you see how

I would also suggest a torch wrench session and beer after each big ride -as this thinh only gets better but keep it tweaked tight

ta S

Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 12:12 Quote
jaame wrote:
@Mrintense50 have you thought about cutting the seat tube down? I was thinking about getting an extra large and removing a bit from the seat tube. Before everyone starts booing and hissing... You cut down bars, expensive fork steerer tubes and even carbon road bike seat tubes. The only question is, if you removed say 10mm, would you have to extend the slot?

It did cross my mind but the seat clamp sits in a recess on the seat tube so I don't think it's possible without a modified clamp as well....plus, on a alu frame yes....carbon... hmmm

O+
Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 16:15 Quote
Okay, since I started posting here, I could as well introduce my Capra, right?

So, it's pretty much stock 2016 Capra Al Comp 1.

photo

photo

I applied some frame protection and swapped the tires for my beloved Nobby Nics right away. I also bought Superstar Components Arctic Sintered brake pads, which were a mistake, as they produce really horrific sound.

As discussed on previous page, I'm 170 cm (5'7'') on size M. The length fits perfectly, but the seatpost is all the way in and I can even imagine the seat being about 2 milimeters lower.

In the beginning I struggled setting up the suspension just right, I was very uncertain in the air. Still not 100 % confident on longer jumps yet, need a few more rides. I ride about 25 % sag in the front, 27 % in the back and I like the pressures, just fiddling with rebounds and slow compressions. I needed to set quite fast rebound (2 clicks from open in the front, 6 - 8 in the back) and firmer slow compression. We'll see.

Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 16:19 Quote
@Mrintense50 yes sorry I was thinking about the aluminium frame. Definitely don't do it to carbon

Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 21:21 Quote
paja-tousek wrote:
jaame wrote:
@Mrintense50 have you thought about cutting the seat tube down? I was thinking about getting an extra large and removing a bit from the seat tube. Before everyone starts booing and hissing... You cut down bars, expensive fork steerer tubes and even carbon road bike seat tubes. The only question is, if you removed say 10mm, would you have to extend the slot?

That's actually not a terrible idea! I'm 5'7'' (170 cm) on M, have 150 mm Reverb all the way down and I'd appreciate the seat to be just about 2 mm lower. So far I thought I'd try and find a lower profile seat, but this might be even better, since removing 2 milimeters isn't so much of a deal. In case of aluminium, at least. I don't thing anyone would even notice in case of warranty claim or when reselling.

I'm only worried about chipping the paint. Anyone going to try it out before me? Smile

i'll likely do this as im 5'6" on a medium Al1. just remember to leave at least enough material above the top tube triangle for the clamp to clamp on. Then extend the slot down the back to allow for seat tube flex.

A temp fix for me was to tie some string (dyneema would've been better) between the seat clamp and reverb seat bolt.. length made to my exact climbing position. I also put some rubber tube over top (any spearfishing shop has these supplies). I can slide the top end loop off the reverb if a taller mate wants a quick ride. Can also serve a second purpose by attaching a thin plastic sheet to it as a mud shield.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://toycrazy.net/miscpics/DIYheightLimit.jpg

Posted: Apr 23, 2016 at 22:06 Quote
Nice ingenuity. I would never have thought of that.

I've noticed on the capra, the seat tube extends a long way over the triangulated part. If they made that extension a centimetre shorter, an extra large with six inch dropper would be the right fit for me with the seat post slammed.

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 1:39 Quote
You guys are making me regret buying the large bike now at 5'11 with a 31 inside leg. I don't want to be cutting seat posts down on a 2k+ bike.

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 1:41 Quote
To anyone wanting to fit a hope press fit bb, without using the 'special tool' ,an M18 hex head bolt has a 27mm head which sits exactly in the hex drive recess and can then be torqued up using a socket.
That's what I did.

DaveBig Grin

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 2:16 Quote
Can you elaborate dave? do you need an m18 nut too?

O+
Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 2:40 Quote
pukecapra wrote:
paja-tousek wrote:
jaame wrote:
@Mrintense50 have you thought about cutting the seat tube down? I was thinking about getting an extra large and removing a bit from the seat tube. Before everyone starts booing and hissing... You cut down bars, expensive fork steerer tubes and even carbon road bike seat tubes. The only question is, if you removed say 10mm, would you have to extend the slot?

That's actually not a terrible idea! I'm 5'7'' (170 cm) on M, have 150 mm Reverb all the way down and I'd appreciate the seat to be just about 2 mm lower. So far I thought I'd try and find a lower profile seat, but this might be even better, since removing 2 milimeters isn't so much of a deal. In case of aluminium, at least. I don't thing anyone would even notice in case of warranty claim or when reselling.

I'm only worried about chipping the paint. Anyone going to try it out before me? Smile

i'll likely do this as im 5'6" on a medium Al1. just remember to leave at least enough material above the top tube triangle for the clamp to clamp on. Then extend the slot down the back to allow for seat tube flex.
...

Be careful with cutting it that much, the 150 mm Reverb is 440 mm long, which means on M size Capra its bottom end is already very close to the bend in the seat tube, when fully inserted. In these cases I'd rather swap for a 125 mm seatpost.

One more tip: KS Lev Integra dropper is more compact both in its head area and the collar. According to my quick measurement it can be inserted 13 mm lower than a Reverb of the same travel. So that might be the way if you need the seat just about centimeter lower, but want to keep 150 mm of travel.

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 2:44 Quote
Massingham wrote:
You guys are making me regret buying the large bike now at 5'11 with a 31 inside leg. I don't want to be cutting seat posts down on a 2k+ bike.

Fairly sure that with a 150 reverb you can't extend it fully, also I understand that cutting is awful. So, in your situation, I'll swap the reverb for a 125 one selling your 150 as new

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 2:47 Quote
Yes my lev has been awesome. A five inch lev would be a better option. Very reliable too.

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 3:42 Quote
Headset Bearing Sizes - just noticed my headset bearings are on their way out.

The frame is Sep15 carbon with the fully integrated headset. The top bearing just dropped out so i noted the code:
AC3041.8-36/45-RS which doesnt appear very common. Nearest i can find is 30x41.8x7 45/45 (MH P08 H7) but the 45/45 angles would be wrong i assume?
Didnt get a chance to read the code off the lower bearing but i read somewhere that it could be 40x52x7 45/45 ?

Anyone know what bearings i need and where i can get them at a good price in the UK .

Thanks
Darryl

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 5:00 Quote
jaame wrote:
Can you elaborate dave? do you need an m18 nut too?

No, you don't need a nut.
Once the cups are in, you can place the 'connecting tube' in and finger tighten it, then, I pushed the bolt through so the head sat in the 27mm hex recess and held onto the bolt shaft from the other side to keep it in place while I torqued it up with a 27mm socket.

Posted: Apr 24, 2016 at 11:59 Quote
Thread needs more pictures.

Tweedvalley, Scotland:

YT Capra at the Golfie Innerleithen


 


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