YT Capra Owners

Author Message
Posted: Nov 17, 2019 at 17:17 Quote
stavroswonder wrote:
Hi,
Ive recently purchased a 2016 yt capra cf in stealth Black. It has yari forks and when trying to get the specs of the bike, i do not see any cf with yari forks in 2016. Anyone help? I was looking to changing the cranks and BB to hope, however ive been told that hopes press fit 30mm may not fit due to a lip?? Anyone help?

Yeah, the 2016 Capra did not come from the factory with the Yari.

Hope bottom brackets work great and are very good. A lot of YT owner's have installed Hope bb.

Posted: Nov 19, 2019 at 6:54 Quote
Jeffsy Large Gen1 owner, DVO topaz and 150 mm pike front. 182cm height, 72kg

Mainly looking for a bike with improved step-down and drop performance since I feel the jeffsy is a little bit harsh on flat landings, cannot drop the pressure anymore since I already using the entire travel. Jeffsy geometry is spot on for me.

Jeffsy G1 L vs Capra Medium vs Capra Large

Toptube 616 vs 583 vs 619
reach 445 vs 445 vs 465
CS 440 vs 435 vs 435
Wheelbase 1178 vs 1199 vs 1123

At the moment I do not need better high speed capability since I mainly ride more tech/switchback terrain with some flat landing drops etc.

So will a large Capra feel to big for my type of riding?

Posted: Nov 19, 2019 at 7:12 Quote
Go large at least. I'm 4 cm more and I ride a large. Nimble enough and can land anything.

Posted: Nov 19, 2019 at 8:53 Quote
I'm a bit shorter than you (178 cm) and enjoy my size L frame (I haven't tried the others though). Just for reference (for others reading this) 182 cm is just under 6 feet, and 178 cm is ~5'10".

Posted: Nov 19, 2019 at 16:50 Quote
I would go straight to XL considering your height but seems interesting you added M in the mix-up.

Same height, have a MK1 Capra L 445 reach and recently bought a large 29er Tues with a "whooping" 480 reach. Never felt the bike to long and just tried a friend's Mondraker Summum in medium, while it was fun for half a lap, small bikes are super nervous for going downhill.

Posted: Nov 20, 2019 at 11:21 Quote
@Littan,
i am 176 cm and ride the Capra 29 CF Pro in L.
So the L Frame is not to big for you.
My son ist 182 cm and also happy with the L Frame.
Before the Capra i had the Jeffsy MK1 in M.
Sorry for my poor english.

Posted: Nov 22, 2019 at 1:30 Quote
Hello everyone, new here.

I've got a YT Capra 2016 CF.
I'm about to change the pivot bearings. Does anyone here have experience on that?

What tools did you use and would something like RapidRacerProducts Bearing press work?
There is also a sealed cartridge in the rocker arm (if that's what the black plastic component under the rear shock
is called) How to get the bearings in it out and back in?

Thanks a lot!

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 9:14 Quote
about sram brakes on my new 29" Capra....how is this possible that the problem with the stuck pistons, still exists?
I have only riden the bike once and 2 of the pistons on my rear brake are stuck.As a result the other two are way too out.
i was willing to give the new codes a chance to prove themselves BUT yet another time this company remained still to its reputation....Shimano Saints already ordered....
Please don't tell me that maybe with a bleeding they will work...Since my elixir CR nothing else (Code R,Guide R,Code R (new gen)) has ever worked for me.On the other hand...
Comparing the Monarch R from my 27,5 2017 model with the Deluxe R from my current one, i have to say that the Deluxe is a very mature rear shock.Less clicks for rebound (almost half than Monarch's) and a very good feeling for a low end rear shock.It is gonna be replaced by CCDB coil CS , though :-)

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 9:28 Quote
amonas wrote:
about sram brakes on my new 29" Capra....how is this possible that the problem with the stuck pistons, still exists?
I have only riden the bike once and 2 of the pistons on my rear brake are stuck.As a result the other two are way too out.
i was willing to give the new codes a chance to prove themselves BUT yet another time this company remained still to its reputation....Shimano Saints already ordered....
Please don't tell me that maybe with a bleeding they will work...Since my elixir CR nothing else (Code R,Guide R,Code R (new gen)) has ever worked for me.On the other hand...
Comparing the Monarch R from my 27,5 2017 model with the Deluxe R from my current one, i have to say that the Deluxe is a very mature rear shock.Less clicks for rebound (almost half than Monarch's) and a very good feeling for a low end rear shock.It is gonna be replaced by CCDB coil CS , though :-)

You might have to rebuild the calibers. I had to do that with my codes recently.

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 9:38 Quote
coaster156 wrote:
amonas wrote:
about sram brakes on my new 29" Capra....how is this possible that the problem with the stuck pistons, still exists?
I have only riden the bike once and 2 of the pistons on my rear brake are stuck.As a result the other two are way too out.
i was willing to give the new codes a chance to prove themselves BUT yet another time this company remained still to its reputation....Shimano Saints already ordered....
Please don't tell me that maybe with a bleeding they will work...Since my elixir CR nothing else (Code R,Guide R,Code R (new gen)) has ever worked for me.On the other hand...
Comparing the Monarch R from my 27,5 2017 model with the Deluxe R from my current one, i have to say that the Deluxe is a very mature rear shock.Less clicks for rebound (almost half than Monarch's) and a very good feeling for a low end rear shock.It is gonna be replaced by CCDB coil CS , though :-)

You might have to rebuild the calibers. I had to do that with my codes recently.

Perhaps. The seizing issue was a result of a lever design problem (in heat/direct sunlight), not the caliper. I'd force the pistons back in and give it another go if the OP hasn't already tried that. I'd be very surprised if SRAM was still having that problem. Speaking of levers, every time I walk by my TUES, I reach out and touch the TRP Quadien levers. So solid feeling and clean looking. Kinda fond of them. Got them a year ago at this Black Friday and they've never needed any attention.

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 11:52 Quote
endlessblockades wrote:
coaster156 wrote:
amonas wrote:
about sram brakes on my new 29" Capra....how is this possible that the problem with the stuck pistons, still exists?
I have only riden the bike once and 2 of the pistons on my rear brake are stuck.As a result the other two are way too out.
i was willing to give the new codes a chance to prove themselves BUT yet another time this company remained still to its reputation....Shimano Saints already ordered....
Please don't tell me that maybe with a bleeding they will work...Since my elixir CR nothing else (Code R,Guide R,Code R (new gen)) has ever worked for me.On the other hand...
Comparing the Monarch R from my 27,5 2017 model with the Deluxe R from my current one, i have to say that the Deluxe is a very mature rear shock.Less clicks for rebound (almost half than Monarch's) and a very good feeling for a low end rear shock.It is gonna be replaced by CCDB coil CS , though :-)

You might have to rebuild the calibers. I had to do that with my codes recently.

Perhaps. The seizing issue was a result of a lever design problem (in heat/direct sunlight), not the caliper. I'd force the pistons back in and give it another go if the OP hasn't already tried that. I'd be very surprised if SRAM was still having that problem. Speaking of levers, every time I walk by my TUES, I reach out and touch the TRP Quadien levers. So solid feeling and clean looking. Kinda fond of them. Got them a year ago at this Black Friday and they've never needed any attention.
I had this issue with mine. Only on the rear. What I was able to determine was that when thw bike was built up, they bled the brakes with the pistons already set. Meaning they were not pushed back in. I was not able to compress the pistons into the caliper. So, I opened up the bleed ports with both syringes attached, compressed to caliper pistons, set the bleed block into the caliper and gave them a good bleed. I did also lubricate the pistons with brake fluid prior to compression. Needless to say, after that my rear brakes weren't "draggy" anymore, all four pistons now have pretty equal protrusion and the lever feels more solid. Just like the front brake.

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 23:29 Quote
I believe it was Guides that had the rampant seizing problem, not Codes.

My Codes are fine after 2k mi.

Shimanos on the other hand will not go that many miles without the wandering bite point problem. Throw them in the landfill and buy a new set.

Which is too bad, because in respect to braking power, price, and fluid type Shimano brakes are clearly superior.

Posted: Nov 25, 2019 at 23:59 Quote
Is capra 29 a good freeride bike (bikepark, dirtpark) or 27 is much better for such applications?
I was decided on Capra 29, but last I ride freeride and dirtpark more and more (yes I also have a dirt bike).
I chose the size XL for my 183 (6 ") cm high.
Thanks for any sygestions.

Posted: Nov 26, 2019 at 7:43 Quote
brassinne wrote:
endlessblockades wrote:
coaster156 wrote:


You might have to rebuild the calibers. I had to do that with my codes recently.

Perhaps. The seizing issue was a result of a lever design problem (in heat/direct sunlight), not the caliper. I'd force the pistons back in and give it another go if the OP hasn't already tried that. I'd be very surprised if SRAM was still having that problem. Speaking of levers, every time I walk by my TUES, I reach out and touch the TRP Quadien levers. So solid feeling and clean looking. Kinda fond of them. Got them a year ago at this Black Friday and they've never needed any attention.
I had this issue with mine. Only on the rear. What I was able to determine was that when thw bike was built up, they bled the brakes with the pistons already set. Meaning they were not pushed back in. I was not able to compress the pistons into the caliper. So, I opened up the bleed ports with both syringes attached, compressed to caliper pistons, set the bleed block into the caliper and gave them a good bleed. I did also lubricate the pistons with brake fluid prior to compression. Needless to say, after that my rear brakes weren't "draggy" anymore, all four pistons now have pretty equal protrusion and the lever feels more solid. Just like the front brake.
Don't lubricate the pistons on new codes with brake fluid. According to SRAMs factory master tech they should be cleared with isopropyl alcohol and allowed to air dry or dried with compressed air before being pushed back in, they are designed to run dry.


 
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