YT Capra Owners

Author Message
flag edm10
Posted: Sep 24, 2020 at 18:49 Quote
Does anyone know what the steerer tube diameter is on a 2020?
flag notsosikmik
O+
Posted: Sep 24, 2020 at 20:32 Quote
1-1/2 inch to 1-1/8 inch tapered. Pretty much every mtb runs this standard except dual crown forks on dh bikes which run 1-1/8 straight tube. So if you are thinking of running a dual crown fork on the capra which many have you will have to get a different bottom adapter cup on your headset.
flag jaame
Posted: Sep 24, 2020 at 23:32 Quote
I was changing my old Brendog grips for new Brendog grips last nigh. When I pulled the old grips off the bar, I was shocked to see terrible corrosion under the grips both on the outer and inner surfaces of the bar. This is the Raceface Aeffect R 35 bar on a 9 month old Capra Base 29.
In addition to the corrosion, the black anodising has changed colour to brown on all exposed areas of the bar. Moving the brake levers confirms this - I want to say it’s UV damage but I have never experienced this on any bar I have ever owned. I didn’t know anodising could fade to be honest. While I have been told by a roadie friend before that bare alloy road bike bars can corrode from sweat if you use the bike on the turbo trainer a lot, again I didn’t think this could happen on an anodised bar.
I am thinking my bar has escaped quality control when perhaps it should have failed. Admittedly this is a low spec bar but still I feel it is a defect in manufacture.
Any thoughts?
flag Staktup
O+
Posted: Sep 25, 2020 at 5:21 Quote
Can’t say carbon bars will do that... sorry to hear and good luck
flag OneTrustMan
Posted: Sep 25, 2020 at 6:25 Quote
jaame wrote:
I was changing my old Brendog grips for new Brendog grips last nigh. When I pulled the old grips off the bar, I was shocked to see terrible corrosion under the grips both on the outer and inner surfaces of the bar. This is the Raceface Aeffect R 35 bar on a 9 month old Capra Base 29.
In addition to the corrosion, the black anodising has changed colour to brown on all exposed areas of the bar. Moving the brake levers confirms this - I want to say it’s UV damage but I have never experienced this on any bar I have ever owned. I didn’t know anodising could fade to be honest. While I have been told by a roadie friend before that bare alloy road bike bars can corrode from sweat if you use the bike on the turbo trainer a lot, again I didn’t think this could happen on an anodised bar.
I am thinking my bar has escaped quality control when perhaps it should have failed. Admittedly this is a low spec bar but still I feel it is a defect in manufacture.
Any thoughts?
Are you sure that brown color comes from the bars and not the inside of your old grips?

I would give the bars a nice clean with some alcohol.

Normaly alloy corrosion shouldn't look brown, right?
flag Staktup
O+
Posted: Sep 25, 2020 at 6:27 Quote
Probably dust that mixed with water..?. Alloy corrosion would be a light chalky color. There shouldn't be any steel mounts on the handlebar near the grips either. Maybe just pull the grips off once in a while and clean the area...
flag jaame
Posted: Sep 25, 2020 at 6:50 Quote
Yeah just to clarify. Under the grips and brake levers, the colour of the anodising is black, but there is a lot of white powdery stuff that looks like aluminium oxide. I have tried to clean it off but it won’t budge - I don’t think it’s dust but I’m not 100% sure.
The parts of the bar that are normally exposed have faded to brown. It’s instantly apparent when moving the levers out of the way. It looks like a lemur’s tail!
flag fortyonethirty2
Posted: Sep 26, 2020 at 15:51 Quote
jaame wrote:
Yeah just to clarify. Under the grips and brake levers, the colour of the anodising is black, but there is a lot of white powdery stuff that looks like aluminium oxide. I have tried to clean it off but it won’t budge - I don’t think it’s dust but I’m not 100% sure.
The parts of the bar that are normally exposed have faded to brown. It’s instantly apparent when moving the levers out of the way. It looks like a lemur’s tail!

The brown color is just the faded anodized surface, totally normal. There is no anodize process that makes a black color, so black is often just really dark brown.

The corrosion is normal as well. It can be exacerbated by cleaning solutions (have you washed the bike?), dirt, and dissimilar metals, the handlebars are probably a different alloy that the levers, and the coatings on both are probably different as well. To remove the corrosion, you can try a solution of vinegar. The anodize layer is very thin so it maybe be totally gone due to the corrosion.

To prevent the corrosion in the future, keep it clean all the time.

But since that is impossible, at the levers you can try either carbon grip paste (this will work well until it has evaporated or washed away) or copper based anti-sieze compound (works well, but may cause the levers to move easier than you like, and is very messy). The grips, I dunno, maybe try to seal the ends to the bar, to keep out moisture.
flag notsosikmik
O+
Posted: Sep 26, 2020 at 23:55 Quote
Black ano is probably the most common anodization there is so to say there is no process is false. Colored anodizing is just transforming the outer later of the substrate aluminum into aluminum oxide which will take on the color of whatever you are dying it with. So if you are saying that there is no "intrinsically" black ano then I guess you would be correct. Plain alumina is kind of a silver white color. Anodization literally is corrosion. Any color change is the dye fading which can definitely be a result of UV exposure.
flag synaps-e
Posted: Oct 3, 2020 at 4:56 Quote
Guys, could anyone suggest a good pair of disk rotors for the Code R’s on my Capra? Especially if you're using it now and happy with it.
I had been using the TRP-33 (one was slightly bent from the start), and now returned to an old SRAM Centerline. I want to never have a need to align them against the pads rub, as it is so annoying.
Got a terrible time with TRP’s after they, probably (my weight is 74kg), overheated in the mountains and got bent and loose firmness. From that point I need use a special Park Tool to fix the rubbing noise before each ride. So swapped it back to stock and will throw them out.
flag watch123
Posted: Oct 3, 2020 at 7:16 Quote
synaps-e wrote:
Guys, could anyone suggest a good pair of disk rotors for the Code R’s on my Capra? Especially if you're using it now and happy with it.
I had been using the TRP-33 (one was slightly bent from the start), and now returned to an old SRAM Centerline. I want to never have a need to align them against the pads rub, as it is so annoying.
Got a terrible time with TRP’s after they, probably (my weight is 74kg), overheated in the mountains and got bent and loose firmness. From that point I need use a special Park Tool to fix the rubbing noise before each ride. So swapped it back to stock and will throw them out.

Brakes are similar to most mechanical things, they take maintance to maintain. You might be able to get a brake to not rub, but after a few months it'll start to rub again (or in your case 1 day).

It seems like you are rather hard on your brakes however, so perhaps you should look into rotors that have heat dissipation built in (such as the Shimano ice-tech stuff).

If it really is happening due to the heat warping the rotor slightly, this should help, however I suspect something else is wrong if it's happening every ride. Perhaps you need to add loctite to the brake caliber bolts.

Really more details are needed on what's going on (are you putting your bike down on the brake side every so often? That could cause it to rub. Etc...) Consider asking in the mechanics quick question thread, this thread more relates to issues specific to the Capra rather than general mechanical questions.
flag notsosikmik
O+
Posted: Oct 3, 2020 at 8:40 Quote
synaps-e wrote:
Guys, could anyone suggest a good pair of disk rotors for the Code R’s on my Capra? Especially if you're using it now and happy with it.
I had been using the TRP-33 (one was slightly bent from the start), and now returned to an old SRAM Centerline. I want to never have a need to align them against the pads rub, as it is so annoying.
Got a terrible time with TRP’s after they, probably (my weight is 74kg), overheated in the mountains and got bent and loose firmness. From that point I need use a special Park Tool to fix the rubbing noise before each ride. So swapped it back to stock and will throw them out.

What size rotors are you running?
flag jaame
Posted: Oct 3, 2020 at 9:10 Quote
What I find is that if your discs touch things they bend, and if the get too hot they warp. I would suggest making sure they don't touch things, and try not to use the brakes.
Also perhaps worth noting is that even if they are rubbing it's usually just a tiny bit.
flag nematon785
Posted: Oct 3, 2020 at 22:41 Quote
My special tool is a crescent wrench. If its bent, bend it back. Float your calipers and torque them down. Ive torched rotors on old used brakes coming down 8000 ft. Veticle Double diamond runs. Never had them warp from heat, (although i imagine it is possible). Had them get smokin stinkin hot also.
Usually a stick flys up ind pings them. Truing them is just part of it. If a big rock or stump takes a bite or a crash results in rotor damage and I cant bend them back with a rag or gloved hand I pull the rotor till I get home. Switch rear to front if necessary to finish the ride. Cheapest rotors I could find always work fine. I hate any rubbing at all because climbing is first priority, and dicking with them before every ride is standard procedure.
flag cxfahrer
Posted: Oct 4, 2020 at 8:02 Quote
synaps-e wrote:
Guys, could anyone suggest a good pair of disk rotors for the Code R’s on my Capra? Especially if you're using it now and happy with it.
I had been using the TRP-33 (one was slightly bent from the start), and now returned to an old SRAM Centerline. I want to never have a need to align them against the pads rub, as it is so annoying.
Got a terrible time with TRP’s after they, probably (my weight is 74kg), overheated in the mountains and got bent and loose firmness. From that point I need use a special Park Tool to fix the rubbing noise before each ride. So swapped it back to stock and will throw them out.

I am on Centerline as stock for 2yrs now, never any issues.
A friend has Trickstuff in bis Capra and finds them much better..

The cheap chinese discs on my park wheelset do brake quite good, but bend easily.

 


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