Transition Patrol, Scout, Sentinel & Suppressor, Giddy Up & SBG Post your bike and discuss here!

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
Transition Patrol, Scout, Sentinel & Suppressor, Giddy Up & SBG Post your bike and discuss here!
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Posted: Aug 3, 2019 at 16:58 Quote
I've got a coil on mine, Works well but it is avalanche tuned with a progressive bottom out bumper. Stock tune wasn't great on it (bomber CR)

Posted: Aug 3, 2019 at 17:11 Quote
DM87 is another Fox code for the 2019 Patrol stock dpx2.

Posted: Aug 3, 2019 at 17:23 Quote
I finally opened up my X2 and found it was full of spacers. I took 2 out and so far riding around the front yard it feels more linear and I am much closer to using full travel. I'll be riding some enduro trails tomorrow and really put it to the test.

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 9:18 Quote
buddymtb wrote:
gpgalanis wrote:
In the past I have been using much lower psi and more volume spacers both in my fork and shock but I have gradually increased the psi and completely removed the spacers and I like the ride quality much more. If you want there is a topic about this in the following link https://forums.mtbr.com/transition-bikes/setting-up-sentinel-1099805.html

This is the same set-up I ended up with on my Patrol. I am 200 pounds in my kit and run 100 psi in my fork and 185 psi in my shock. This translates to just under 28% sag in the shock and 25% sag in the fork. With these pressures I am running the high speed rebound almost all the way open. This gives me great small bump compliance, mid travel support, and just the right amount of compression so I don't bottom out but still use the full travel of the shock and fork. This set-up really allows me to bomb down chunky enduro runs at speed and the suspension just eats them up. Their is a four foot drop on one of my local trails and when I huck it at speed, I use the travel but don't have a harsh bottom out. Same with large jumps and table tops.

It's worth mentioning that the first fork with spacers, the Pike, didn't originally have them for tuning: It was purely so RS could make one fork chassis that could be run at any height between 160 and 100 without different stanchions or a coil negative spring. Rear suspension is a little different, because of the smaller air chamber and the influence of the linkage, but with forks and their 1:1 travel to movement ratio, tokens aren't a great way to tune. Generally with a fork, you want as linear a spring as possible, and then tune for end of stroke via damping or bottom out circuits. There's a good reason an awful lot of suspension tuners weren't excited about the whole token thing from the start.

That said, an awful lot of forks now have stock compression tunes that feel terrible unless you run with spacers.

I started learning all this stuff purely because I wanted to run my fork the same way I've always liked: stiff spring, very little compression damping.

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 13:09 Quote
Tried the 0.4 token. Was good, but as the guys says in the vid, still bit choppy on the foot, haha.

Trying out the 0.2 next week.

Has anybody tried the 0.3 by Vorsprung, is it worth testing?

Also, has anybody had issues with chain drop? Been riding DH track today, no issues so far. Have got myself a chain guide but figured it is everything than easy to install this thing - I have one of those that are mounted with just one screw on the top hole - as the cable is in the way.

Although I ride a lot of park I’d do without the guide if some other riders could confirm that there are no issues. Would just use a taco.

Posted: Aug 4, 2019 at 23:12 Quote
TyMak wrote:
Tried the 0.4 token. Was good, but as the guys says in the vid, still bit choppy on the foot, haha.

Trying out the 0.2 next week.

Has anybody tried the 0.3 by Vorsprung, is it worth testing?

Also, has anybody had issues with chain drop? Been riding DH track today, no issues so far. Have got myself a chain guide but figured it is everything than easy to install this thing - I have one of those that are mounted with just one screw on the top hole - as the cable is in the way.

Although I ride a lot of park I’d do without the guide if some other riders could confirm that there are no issues. Would just use a taco.

I had just 1 chain drop riding the x-line in Saalbach. Shortened the chain and had no issues afterwards. Still there's a shitload of chainslap, my chainstays are paint chipped everywhere. (don't really care as long as i don't hear it while riding)

Posted: Aug 5, 2019 at 1:21 Quote
steviejks wrote:
TyMak wrote:
Tried the 0.4 token. Was good, but as the guys says in the vid, still bit choppy on the foot, haha.

Trying out the 0.2 next week.

Has anybody tried the 0.3 by Vorsprung, is it worth testing?

Also, has anybody had issues with chain drop? Been riding DH track today, no issues so far. Have got myself a chain guide but figured it is everything than easy to install this thing - I have one of those that are mounted with just one screw on the top hole - as the cable is in the way.

Although I ride a lot of park I’d do without the guide if some other riders could confirm that there are no issues. Would just use a taco.

I had just 1 chain drop riding the x-line in Saalbach. Shortened the chain and had no issues afterwards. Still there's a shitload of chainslap, my chainstays are paint chipped everywhere. (don't really care as long as i don't hear it while riding)

The chain slap is really annoying, but a chain guide wouldn’t deal with this issue as well. I’lL certainly get used to the sound. Still better than messing around with installing a guide.

Still haven’t done big drops using full travel this being the only thing where the chain could drop off. Can anyone confirm that?

I got myself plenty of M3 tape and taped almost everything so the paint wouldn’t chip off.

Posted: Aug 5, 2019 at 3:08 Quote
TyMak wrote:
Tried the 0.4 token. Was good, but as the guys says in the vid, still bit choppy on the foot, haha.

Trying out the 0.2 next week.

I've just dropped from a 0.6 to a 0.4 myself. If you don't have a 0.3 to try, you can drill the 0.4 a little bit to approximate the feeling.

Posted: Aug 5, 2019 at 5:19 Quote
mrtoodles wrote:
TyMak wrote:
Tried the 0.4 token. Was good, but as the guys says in the vid, still bit choppy on the foot, haha.

Trying out the 0.2 next week.

I've just dropped from a 0.6 to a 0.4 myself. If you don't have a 0.3 to try, you can drill the 0.4 a little bit to approximate the feeling.

Has anybody tried that already? I mean one should at least know the weight of the 0.3. Otherwise the whole drilling is kinda pointless?

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 20:06 Quote
I can get a good price on the new Zipp Carbon wheels. I am thinking of getting a set for my Sentinel and using the stock Stans wheels with heavy tires for bike park stuff while I keep the Zipps for trail riding with lighter rubber. Part of this decision is based on trying to make the bike a bit more fun on more mellow trails. Think this would help?

Posted: Aug 7, 2019 at 20:26 Quote
It'll likely make the bike faster rolling and more comfortable. More fun? Maybe, hard to say. The Zipp wheels are impressive but hard to say if I'll achieve more fun.

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 6:09 Quote

Just found a crack all along the chain stay bridge. Fingers crossed the warranty covers it.

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 10:12 Quote
Looks like a Transition...seen quite a few chainstays like that unfortunately.

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 10:30 Quote
dirtnapped wrote:

Just found a crack all along the chain stay bridge. Fingers crossed the warranty covers it.

Need to look at mine now..

Never having gone through their warranty for bikes, interested to see how they handle this. I do know from personal exp, on the ANVL parts side, it was a quick simple fast process for a seat issue

Posted: Aug 8, 2019 at 11:33 Quote
kwapik wrote:
Looks like a Transition...seen quite a few chainstays like that unfortunately.

Yeah, as have I. Transition has been fair to work with in the past, and with it being a known area to crack I'm optimistic.


 
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