I´m running a Ohlins TTX22m with 550 spring (115kg). I use the bike as a do it all weapon. But no tours longer 30km. I really like the DHish feeling a lot. But the climbs are to be beaten. every-single-one. Stand up pedaling is a real energy waster.
I´m running a Ohlins TTX22m with 550 spring (115kg). I use the bike as a do it all weapon. But no tours longer 30km. I really like the DHish feeling a lot. But the climbs are to be beaten. every-single-one. Stand up pedaling is a real energy waster.
I´m running a Ohlins TTX22m with 550 spring (115kg). I use the bike as a do it all weapon. But no tours longer 30km. I really like the DHish feeling a lot. But the climbs are to be beaten. every-single-one. Stand up pedaling is a real energy waster.
I will at least make them accessable to everybody. So what I´m planing is offering to send them out - but i dont wanna earn money with it. So i just want to cover my own expences which obviously are very little. If the shipping costs are to high i will send out the files needed to make them your own / get them made by a 3dprinting provider. So everybody that wants to have less trouble with his lovly bike shall be served.
Maybe ill make a CNC version made of aluminium just for the bling bling. But i cant think of a save way. The good thing about the 3D printed parts is that they would break if u hit something hard. So your linkage is not damaged. Made of aluminium might change this..
I will at least make them accessable to everybody. So what I´m planing is offering to send them out - but i dont wanna earn money with it. So i just want to cover my own expences which obviously are very little. If the shipping costs are to high i will send out the files needed to make them your own / get them made by a 3dprinting provider. So everybody that wants to have less trouble with his lovly bike shall be served.
Maybe ill make a CNC version made of aluminium just for the bling bling. But i cant think of a save way. The good thing about the 3D printed parts is that they would break if u hit something hard. So your linkage is not damaged. Made of aluminium might change this..
Hey, my Ticking noise is back 150km and about 1500hm (around 4500 vertical feet) later. I´m quiet sure its the dogbone again. Even though i have one with ball bearings which also arent older than around 200km, they are just to small to take the beating.
Need to fix it for good, dont want to take the bike apart every two weeks..
So how do you guys decouple the rotation of the dogbone from the Frame? I tryed using paper which is normaly used for sealing. Didnt work good enough. Than I tryed polished 12mm shim rings. They had the problem, that their outer Dia is to large, so the whole bearing rubs on the shimring not just the inner ring of the bearing. So I/we would need something that inner dia is 12 and outer is 14 with a depth of 1.05 mm (in my case)... So the bearing can rotated free and doesnt transfer its friction to the frame.
Sorry for the bad spelling. I cant get ride of the autocorrection which always ruins the english words..
For the protection part - i ll upload my solution later this evening. I modified my ISCG bashguard. So that i dont add any moving parts which can make the frame even more noisy
If we can get a good solution working I ll produce the parts and send them to you.
If you go back and search the thread you will see that dogbone du bush is wear and tear. I personally found a solution that is inexpensive, anyway you need to take the dogbone apart every once in a while.
The du bushes I have are made for this type of application the original ones rust and dont go well with mud and dust. It is in my buysell section.
You can instead get a custom dogbone with bearings but the bearings will wear over time.
I also and many have here, used a plastic protection to avoid getting it dirty.
I´m running a Ohlins TTX22m with 550 spring (115kg). I use the bike as a do it all weapon. But no tours longer 30km. I really like the DHish feeling a lot. But the climbs are to be beaten. every-single-one. Stand up pedaling is a real energy waster.
It was a bondhus, expensive one too. Big leverage bar, heat, penetrating spray. No go.
Haven't had it apart from factory, but I was aware something like this might happen so no Biggie. Probably a good reminder for everyone else to keep on top of it.
I use a big allen that goes all the way thru the bolt and then use an old seatpost tube to leverage the thing. I've noticed that "slacking" the dogbone by getting the wheel up (I work on it while the bike is upside down) helps. I think it's the frame poor fitting in that area that gets them even more stubborn to get out.