Question on the 1x10 drive train...

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Question on the 1x10 drive train...
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flag UnboundBoarder
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 16:54 Quote
Yo! What are some benefits and cons to the 1x10/11 and what one would you recommend buying if I do choose to trade drive trains.. Alright so im riding a yeti asr5 with 160 mm of travel each way. I currently got the stock 3x10 drive train on there. I love riding up trails, gettin the good work out out but my heart goes to flying down the trail and hittin jumps. Everytime im descending though my chain gets raddled so hard it falls into 1st gear and screws me up before I pedal into a jump etc. is there an accessorie I can buy to add to the sprocket to get the chain from leaving the sprocket I have it on? Please help
flag Wishiwasbiking
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 19:01 Quote
I went from 2x10 to 1x10, one of the best upgrades I've made. I'm running an X9 type 2 clutch rear der, but was constantly dropping the chain, so I put an XCX top guide and haven't dropped the chain since. The 1x10 is good for most of the climbing I do, usually between 10 to 25% grade. Although I hit some trails with over 30% grade last weekend and they kicked my ass.. If I had to do the 30% grades on a regular basis I would probably throw a 42t wolf tooth cog on. In the front I'm running a 30t raceface narrow wide chainring.
flag Wishiwasbiking
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 19:02 Quote
BTW what rear der are you running? Is it clutch?
flag UnboundBoarder
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 19:35 Quote
Yeah it's got a clutch but I guess it's no match for the ruff hard bumpy dirt/ rock trails out here. What would be a good set up to buy? I'd say some of the grades i ride up can reach 30% but most of it is just long tedious rides. What about a 2x10 with the chain stay do they make those?
flag UnboundBoarder
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 19:36 Quote
In ever use the top sprocket descending because I feel like the chain will pop to the outside and really eff me up
flag Wishiwasbiking
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 20:20 Quote
Is the chain dropping or is it skipping down the gears on your cassette? When you say that the chain falls into 1st do you mean the large cog on your cassette or the small cog? The only time I've had the chain skipping gears is when my chain/cassette was worn.
flag UnboundBoarder
Posted: Feb 27, 2015 at 20:39 Quote
It drops into the smallest sprocket when I go down ruff descents . I've never seen it happen czz i. Looking at the trail but I didn't touch the gear shifters but it drops
flag inter71
Posted: Feb 28, 2015 at 16:12 Quote
e*thirteen 42t range extender. $65
Race Face 30t narrow wide chainring. $30
Shimano XT cassette. $60
flag friendlyfoe
Posted: Mar 2, 2015 at 21:21 Quote
NO!

One-up 42 tooth range extender
Wolftooth 30t NW chainring
Shimano Magic Spaghetti cassette (this isn't a real thing, XT it is)

I actually have no idea if there is any significant difference between range extenders, but the more expensive one-up kit also replaces 2 of your lower gears. I'm also pretty sure you need to do something about your derailleur if you go 42T. The 40T might clear a mid cage derailleur, or maybe not. I really don't understand but i do know one up makes a special cage just for doing this soooo....pancakes?
flag inter71
Posted: Mar 2, 2015 at 21:42 Quote
That's the thing, the OneUp comes with the 16t, but the e*thirteen comes with the vital extended b-tension screw so your derailer can make the jump to 42t.
flag friendlyfoe
Posted: Mar 2, 2015 at 21:51 Quote
That's interesting to know. I'm still trying to figure all this out. Yes with the one-up you need to buy the rad or radR cage as well, instead of a longer B screw.

Also worth noting I don't think you can use a long cage derailleur with a 42 tooth? Or is it that you can but it's unnecessarily long making it more prone to damage?

I spent a little time looking at pictures tonight and I'm pretty sure the SLX derailleur that came with my 2x10 11-36 is a long cage.
flag inter71
Posted: Mar 2, 2015 at 22:27 Quote
I've had no problem with my long cage XT derailer with the extended b-tension screw. It's definitely hanging out there, but I haven't smashed it on anything yet (one year). You will have issues with your SLX derailer if it doesn't have a clutch though.
flag a-d-e
O+
Posted: Mar 2, 2015 at 23:44 Quote
friendlyfoe wrote:
That's interesting to know. I'm still trying to figure all this out. Yes with the one-up you need to buy the rad or radR cage as well, instead of a longer B screw.

Also worth noting I don't think you can use a long cage derailleur with a 42 tooth? Or is it that you can but it's unnecessarily long making it more prone to damage?

I spent a little time looking at pictures tonight and I'm pretty sure the SLX derailleur that came with my 2x10 11-36 is a long cage.
radr cage is for shimano mech only designed to deal with the problems caused by winding the b screw out so far to clear the 42t i.e stubborn shifting, skipping, not essential with a med cage but turns a zee (or any shimano i think) into a slightly longer than short cage but also changes the way the pulley pivots so you dont need to wind the b screw in so much because the mech is now following the sprocket teeth closer as you shift through the gears due to the modified pivot point where the pulley cage attaches to the mech.
flag friendlyfoe
Posted: Mar 3, 2015 at 5:23 Quote
Yay I think I finally understand. I think that's basically what it says on one-up's page but something about their language always confused me.

Hope that helps the OP also understand what his options are.
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