Rear shock for 2010 Spec Enduro-opinions?

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Rear shock for 2010 Spec Enduro-opinions?
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Posted: Mar 23, 2015 at 17:48 Quote
Hey all. Looking to replace the played out Fox RP2 on my '10 Enduro. This shock has been rebuilt twice and is again leaking oil out of the air valve and the damping is smoked. Sidebar: Can anyone tell me why these shocks eventually leak oil out of the valve? This isn't the first Fox I've had this happen to.

Anyways, looking at replacing it with a new Fox, RockShox Monarch Debonair, Cane Creek Inline, or possibly a new X-Fusion. The bike gets ridden pretty hard, mostly fast descents through rough New England terrain. Some drops/jumps. Definitely some drops to flat. I'm a pretty smooth seated pedaler so a firm climb mode isn't important to me. What's most important is reliability/longevity and the ability to handle fast, rocky terrain.

Thanks...any constructive and experience-based comments will be helpful!

Posted: Mar 25, 2015 at 8:55 Quote
Hi
The problem with the enduro is that it uses a clevis with a special "tooth" in them that must be matched with a notches in the shock body. This means that an of the shelf shock cannot be fitted to the bike.
Having said that you have two options -
1. buy the RS monarch plus shock (the best air should you can buy and modify to fit to the clevis, this can also be done with coil shocks (but not all of them). note that you have to have a very precise work on this - otherwise it would not hold and you risk braking the shock (happen to me!). Also you would have to reduce the shock travel with some spacer from the 2.5 normal travel down to 2.125 with some plastic spacer behind the bottom out bumper.
2. buy the evo links - http://www.hibike.com/shop/product/p48f6bac9f2eb3dc446a00a7336d5cb8c/Specialized-Extension-fuer-EVO-Umbau-Bj-2010-2012.html or some other place. Then you can bolt a fox RC4 or RC2 directly to the frame with the the easiest in the long run and it would really work without issues. note that you would have to modify the sprint plate to fit around the link but it easy to do. you would still need to spacer to reduce the travel (though with this link you can leave it as is, and have a bike with 180mm and the rear). this is what I have end up doing and this is the best upgrade I ever did. note that this shock (the RC 4 ) is very easy to service at home as well (unlike the RP2)

Posted: Mar 30, 2015 at 18:38 Quote
Thanks for the reply. Machining the notches in the eyelet is something I'm capable of. I don't want to install a coil shock; would like to stick with air. Do you know how to reduce the stroke length on a shock? Is it even possible and can it be done with any shock?

I think it's pretty lame that Specialized has done 2 proprietary things with the OE shock (the notches and odd stroke length). It really screws riders that want to upgrade...

Posted: Jun 24, 2015 at 15:35 Quote
tzrider wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Machining the notches in the eyelet is something I'm capable of. I don't want to install a coil shock; would like to stick with air. Do you know how to reduce the stroke length on a shock? Is it even possible and can it be done with any shock?

I think it's pretty lame that Specialized has done 2 proprietary things with the OE shock (the notches and odd stroke length). It really screws riders that want to upgrade...

I've heard of guys going it, and it's described here: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/travel-reduction-spacer-monarch-plus-938100.html

I guess it would be nice if someone had taken some photos or a video... I had a shock tuner guy travel limit my monarch plus, but I got a bit of a deal since I bought the shock from him... Next time I open it up to service, I could try grab a few photos if you like...

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